Lots of great tips so far, but I'll add a few.
Thanks for the tips. I'd love to play snooker more often but table time is $2-3 more than pool per hour per person. I've found one pool hall that has a snooker table but they do $7/hr, it bothers me a little that I can play almost two hours of pool for that kind of money. :frown:
First off: welcome to snooker! I hope you stick with it.
$7 per hour is CHEAP where I live, but then I live in a relatively expensive area.
If you're concerned about cost, consider talking to the room owner about a mini-league for snooker. Maybe snooker league members could pay a small annual fee ($20) and then get a small discount for practice time, and a larger discount for table time for league matches. User "cascader" set up a league in Massachusetts, and it's helped bring snooker players together.
Since a snooker table is larger, it costs the room owner more to keep. A number of rooms gave up their snooker tables because they had a better chance of staying in business with two small pool tables instead of one big snooker table that went unappreciated.
I honestly tried CTE but gave up when I missed a few simple shots. Maybe I'll try again next week because I haven't completely adjusted the aiming system to the smaller balls. As said the angles of the long pots on a 12 footer is unforgiving.
You'll find lots of good instructional material online about aiming, stance, etc. Some of the top snooker players have written instructional books that are well regarded; from these books you may also learn a few tips about the snooker table that will surprise you. (For example, on a properly groomed table, how does the cue ball with side spin behave when shot "up" the table versus "down" the table? Is the relation of length to width of the playing surface on a snooker table exactly the same as on a pool table?)
Check out The Snooker Forum, which is the AzB of snooker. I try to cross-post now and then between AzB and TSF.
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board/
Everyone has posted some great tips. I realize I don't have much of a preshot routine and I haven't thought much about backswing and pausing so I'll need to build on that. I'm going to have to re-evaluate my stroke and approach all together. Ever since Pro One/CTE my approach has changed from walking into the line of the shot from shuffling and twisting onto it. :embarrassed2:
Drill, man, drill. Snooker's a great game to force attention on fundamentals, and by shooting drills (once a night, or however frequently you can tolerate) you'll get used to the table. It's well worth the effort.
1. Put the blue on its spot in the center. Place the cue ball to make the blue in one side and draw the cue ball into the opposite side. Try to split both pockets.
2. Practice shooting the cue ball straight over the center spots and have the cue ball return to the tip of your cue. Since head alignment is critical, you might shoot this drill a few times each time you play.
3. Put the blue on its spot, put the cue ball wherever you want, and practice shooting into a corner. Over time you can move the cue ball back.
4. Shoot the yellow, green, and brown (2, 3, and 4 points) in order from their spots. Over time, add the blue, pink, and black.
5. Play "line-up" snooker, which is a good practice routine. One modification: rather than resetting the table after one miss, keep going but keep track of how many innings it takes you to finish.
http://www.snookergames.co.uk/practise.html
6. Practice kicks and banks. If you use kick and bank systems for pool, you'll need to make some adjustments. The cross-side bank is a bit easier than it looks at first. Cross corner? Not so much.
7. Start getting used to making shallow angle shots into the side pocket. Pool players tend to overlook these shots. Since the pockets are rounded rather than pointy, a snooker table pocket will accept shots from a wider range of angles than a pool table pocket would.
Check out Allison Fisher's stroke: she's successfully made the transition from snooker to pool (which is an understatement). Her stroke is solid, precise, and consistent.
Edit: Also, what are some good brands for beginner-intermediate cues? I hear Dufferin is a good and affordable brand that lasts. Do people still sell Canadian made Dufferin snooker cues?
Search for "snooker cue" in the forum; there are several posts on the topic already. If you find a cue that you like, Wity can tell you whether the quality is overhyped. If you get a decent, unvarnished cue, then just make sure you have a decent tip.
I seem to recall that there was a difference between older Dufferins and newer ones, but I don't recall. I'm a fan of older Dufferin house cues.
A few times I've seen cues from Canadian cuemaker Kevin Deroo for sale here. Buying used will save you some money.
If you play snooker long enough that you want to buy The Last Snooker Cue You'll Ever Need (a practice recommended by some), then you could check out the Shark series from Mike Wooldridge in the UK. You can pay more for fancy splices and different woods, but the base level Shark is a fine cue. Shipping may seem expensive, but the cue and case are packed nicely.
http://www.handmadecues.com/
Pictures of my cue:
http://picasaweb.google.com/rethunk/MikeWooldridgeSharkSnookerCue#5414167805970458786