Matching shaft to butt

mnsneakypete

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a new Jacoby sneaky pete butt that is a little big for my predator shaft (wood-wood Uniloc joint). The butt diameter at the joint is 0.850 inches and the shaft is 0.840. It would be nice to not have the little lip at the joint. Is there any way the butt could be trimmed down to match the shaft? How much of a pain would that be for a cue repairman?

Thanks.
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
It is possible to build up the clear coat on the shaft to match the butt............. done right you can never tell........


Kim
 

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
Did an original shaft come with the cue ?
When you trim the jnt. of the cue to fit the aftermarket shaft, what will become of that orig. shaft ?
You know it will no longer fit correctly so what have you gained ?
You've traded one for the other and bastardized the cue in the process.
Would it not make more sense to match the 2nd shaft to the cue ?
Do what Kim said. Adding a collar to the shaft would strengthen it. It would require less finish also.
 

Chopdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It is possible to build up the clear coat on the shaft to match the butt............. done right you can never tell........


Kim



That was my first thought.

Seems reasonable. In fact I have a shaft I am planning on having that done with at some point.

And I suppose it could always be taken back down again if needed for any reason. But turn the butt down and I guess that's it. I mean, you would be turning it at least back to the handle area, no?

That's why I posted...I have a question on this matter. A little finish build up on the shaft would really not alter the cue so much. But turning the butt down is a much larger endeavor and essentially alters the overall dimensions. More likely to affect balance, weight, and feel of the cue. Am I right in that?




.
 

mnsneakypete

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Did an original shaft come with the cue ?
When you trim the jnt. of the cue to fit the aftermarket shaft, what will become of that orig. shaft ?
You know it will no longer fit correctly so what have you gained ?
You've traded one for the other and bastardized the cue in the process.
Would it not make more sense to match the 2nd shaft to the cue ?
Do what Kim said. Adding a collar to the shaft would strengthen it. It would require less finish also.

Nope - no bastardization is going to happen. Butt only. I requested a specific size at the joint and its larger than requested. I originally offered to send in the shaft to match it but they must not have gotten the message and went ahead and made the butt without requesting the shaft.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Deleted. My post was done before your last post was up.
Questions answered. Thanks.
 
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Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Nope - no bastardization is going to happen. Butt only. I requested a specific size at the joint and its larger than requested. I originally offered to send in the shaft to match it but they must not have gotten the message and went ahead and made the butt without requesting the shaft.

Then you should be able to call them and say, I requested this size and it isn't this size, please make it right. I am sure, from what I have heard about Jacoby Cues, if they messed up, they will make it right. Calling them is the first thing to do.....if the story is as you have now laid out.
Dave
 

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
mnsneakypete

OK, let's approach this from a slightly different angle.
If you reduce the jnt. dia. only, you will bastardize the cue unless your intent is a compound taper for the handle.
If you were to lay the handle flat on a table now, you should see no light under it. That's a straight taper.
Will you just be reducing the area below the jnt. only ? You will certainly see light. You'll also see bare wood.
The only way you'll avoid a compound taper, thereby avoiding bastardizing the cue, is to re-taper the entire handle.
Are you going to be doing the finish-work as well ? The word 'bastardized' got to you didn't it ?

There's something not quite right with this statement : "I originally offered to send in the shaft to match it but
they must not have gotten the message and went ahead and made the butt without requesting the shaft."
Who'd you speak to, the answering machine ? I'll let you think about this for a minute before we pursue it further.

I have no idea why you came here with this problem. Why aren't you talking to Jacoby ?
None of us here will touch that handle for under $200. Maybe Jacoby will do it for free if you can convince them that
THEY were the one that made the mistake.
On a more practical/civil note, match the shaft to the handle, call it a day and move on.
 

Chopdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The only way you'll avoid a compound taper, thereby avoiding bastardizing the cue, is to re-taper the entire handle.

Thanks. That answered my question on the issue.


As for the OP, it looks like he should be talking to Jacoby, as you guys are saying.



.
 

mnsneakypete

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate the input.

KJ - I sent an order to Jacoby for a butt with the request to send in my shaft. They told me it'll take 6 months to make the butt. While I could have sent in my shaft and let them sit on it for six months, I'd prefer not to. They then called me after 3 months and told me the butt is done. That's great, but I wasn't expecting it that soon, so I had no opportunity to send the shaft in. If it had been done to the specs they were given, there'd be no problem; unfortunately that wasn't the case.

Was I talking to an answering machine - no, but the person who takes the orders there is not very knowledgeable about their product or pool cues in general. Trying to get the order straight the first time around took multiple emails and phone calls. The point of my post was to inquire as to whether or not this is something that can easily be fixed, perhaps by a local repairman. If I can avoid sending it back across the country for a month and having to deal with them again, I'd prefer to handle it locally. It looks as though that's not the case - so I'll suck it up and talk to Jacoby.
 
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Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have never seen a Jacoby with .850" joint collar, I guess it can happen...
Jacoby seems to make their cues to the standard .842" such a shame your Jacoby is larger than their standard. Almost mekes me think someone, somewhere in the process mistook at 4 for a 5...
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have never seen a Jacoby with .850" joint collar, I guess it can happen...
Jacoby seems to make their cues to the standard .842" such a shame your Jacoby is larger than their standard. Almost mekes me think someone, somewhere in the process mistook at 4 for a 5...


I think they might vary. The last shaft I made for a Jacoby was .850.
To the O. P.. The shortest path with the least amount of aggravation might be to have the shaft sprayed. While Predator standards are around .842. I have seen them vary from .838 to .844.
 

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
I'm going to be totally honest with you.
At this point, having Jacoby re-do the cue is going to be more hassle than it's worth, for both of you.
Building the finish on the shaft is 'cake'. One or two trips to the spray-booth and it's done.
The cost should be very reasonable, the turn-around is a couple of days and the step no longer exists.
That's your goal, right, to have no step ? This is the easiest, cheapest and quickest way to accomplish it.
The ONLY downside is the future purchase of another shaft. Make sure that they understand it needs to be .850".
End of story.
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
OK, let's approach this from a slightly different angle.
If you reduce the jnt. dia. only, you will bastardize the cue unless your intent is a compound taper for the handle.
If you were to lay the handle flat on a table now, you should see no light under it. That's a straight taper.
Will you just be reducing the area below the jnt. only ? You will certainly see light. You'll also see bare wood.
The only way you'll avoid a compound taper, thereby avoiding bastardizing the cue, is to re-taper the entire handle.
Are you going to be doing the finish-work as well ? The word 'bastardized' got to you didn't it ?

There's something not quite right with this statement : "I originally offered to send in the shaft to match it but
they must not have gotten the message and went ahead and made the butt without requesting the shaft."
Who'd you speak to, the answering machine ? I'll let you think about this for a minute before we pursue it further.

I have no idea why you came here with this problem. Why aren't you talking to Jacoby ?
None of us here will touch that handle for under $200. Maybe Jacoby will do it for free if you can convince them that
THEY were the one that made the mistake.
On a more practical/civil note, match the shaft to the handle, call it a day and move on.
Not necessarily imo.
One steeper angle for the forearm. Not a whole lot of re-angle.
The handle won't need to be touched.
The problem I see is the UV finish of the cue.
Once taken down, it will be some work for refinish.
 

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
Not necessarily imo.
One steeper angle for the forearm. Not a whole lot of re-angle.
The handle won't need to be touched.
The problem I see is the UV finish of the cue.
Once taken down, it will be some work for refinish.

What most refer to as a butt, the bottom half of the cue, (what's left after the shaft is removed),
I call the handle. Read my post again with that in mind and it should make better sense to you.
In my world, the butt starts where the wrap ends; butt-sleeve, butt-cap and bumper.
Above that is the wrap (or wrap area if the cue is wrap-less) and above that is the forearm then jnt.
For whatever reason, I've heard the forearm referred to as the 'nose' of the cue. I chuckle when I hear/read that.
The nose then is the upper part of the butt. Let's think about that for a sec. The nose is part of the butt.
What Frankenstein anatomy class have these people taken ? Billiards has no defined glossary of official terms.
For every term that people use to define an area of the cue, I can find a different term. There is no standard.
This leads to confusion at every turn. I'm not real concerned with what others think, never have, never will.
Until you have a standard, no one is right and no one is wrong. I've heard the handle referred to as the bottom shaft.
That took a minute but I knew what he meant. I don't care if you call it a McDonalds Royal with cheese.
In my world it's the handle. Until a standard is established confusion will reign supreme.
Would you like fries with that ? In England they're called 'chips'. OK, I digress. I'm old, I can do that.
 
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