JP pinning

GoldCrown said:

First...thank you very much for taking the time and sharing. Its people like you make a difference. Very much appreciated.

Started off by using a dowel that is not 100% round. Did the best I could to get a good stating point. It looked pretty good when rotating. It might have been out too far from chuck...about 2".

Next I faced, center drilled, drilled about 1.25 with 5/16. Drilled 25/64 to 1.25, tapped slowly and manually...made few turns and backed out, cleaned, resumed. Bored to .446 .600 deep. I will use your sequence.

Using a joint screw to insert makes great sense. The driver I used does not feel right. How does the brass insert get removed after trial fit. It is snug.
I will use a metal bit 25/64. Please suggest a lube. I'm new to tapping. Never used any lubes when drilling.

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Your very welcome.
My definition of the original uni loc insert.
One of the most pricise parts offered today in Cue making. To insure straightness. Snug is the only option for it to be correct. It gets installed last in most cases. For joint protectors, you can install it early if your doing your final turn mounted on a mandrel. You can not face it between centers because the insert itself does not use one. But if you make a center or live center that will go past the threaded part and reach the inner bore. It will work.
Lube!
Some people like tap magic, wax, 3-1 oil etc etc.
I like a product called T-9. It's main use is for cast beds such as table saws, jointers, etc etc. It works great and doesn't leave a residue behind.
Dry fit removal.
Unless you can make your own insert pliers. You could try fuse puller pliers. They offer one for 1/2" and smaller. If you damage the o.d. of the insert. Toss it and use a new one.

GoldCrown said:

Thanks to all that replied. Special; Thanks Michael Webb.

This is the 2nd round of working with the Uniloc insert. I learned a lot by doing/chating.
I'm pretty satisfied with the outcome. I over bored slightly (exceeded .466) but will be closer to spec next round. However for a JB I don't think its an issue. This JP is a piece of scrap maple. Finished with 2 coats CA. I will continue to use CA or Birchwood Casey Try-Oil.. It's strictly a practice piece. Next round I'll use a nice piece of something or use an acrylic blank. Next will work a jump cue UniLoc pin for a shaft JB. The fun is just beginning.

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Very nice start. Uni loc aluminum jump screw. My least favorite of their products. .289 o.d. thread, no alignment shoulder on the screw to make up for the smaller thread. Uni loc should have copied the design of the bullet screw or make the threaded body .310 to work better with the 5/16x 14 tap.
Ex. Bullet screw and the jump screw.


Like so. My first run before I made a collet for it. Converted a full screw. Thread o.d. on this is .308x14