JP pinning

GoldCrown

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I want to begin making JP's for hobby and gifts to friends. I have no interest in selling them. None. Where is the best place to get the pins and needed tools. Will start with Uniloc
How do I get started. I have a repair lathe capable of drilling, turning, joint work. Also have spindle lathes to turn/finish blanks. Thanks for all and any help. Frank
 
Last edited:
Texas Carom Club

Texas Carom Club

9ball did to billiards what hiphop did to america
Silver Member
GoldCrown

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
beneath_the_sur said:
Atlas

https://www.cuestik.com/store/?DEPARTMENT_ID=43

Shmelke has better prices but atlas has some stuff they don't

http://schmelkecue.com/pool-cue-making-supplies/joint-pins-and-joint-inserts.html

Then there's eBay, probably the cheapest pins from China but the 2 week wait

On Atlas you can buy 3/8-10 rod and saw the lengths you want instead of buying individual inserts, but not sure on all types of threads they have in bar stock
Click to expand...

Thanks...I'll give them a call. I purchased from both before.
 
Last edited:
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If you don't have the capability of putting a bull nose on the pieces you cut from longer screws or threaded rods.
I would:
Buy the uni loc and radial jp screws from Atlas.
For 5/16x14, 5/16x18 and 3/8x10 from Ct. Cue parts. Aka Jan mfg. They sell those 3 sizes in 1 1/2 inch lengths as well as 3 inch long and 12 inch long. Jan also makes brass inserts for the 14 an 18 thread.
By the way.
Jan has a minimum order. I think it's $50 or $75. Please don't call them to spend 5.
 
Last edited:
GoldCrown

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Michael Webb said:
Jan has a minimum order. I think it's $50 or $75. Please don't call them to spend 5.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up. It's not my style to waste anyone's time.
I realize the first few I do might end up
in the recycle can so having stock is wise.
I want to buy pins that are ready to insert. I cannot nose them.
 
Last edited:
GoldCrown

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
bbb said:
frank
i will buy a set......:smile:
Click to expand...

Thanks for your interest. Free for you when I get started. But actually nothing for free...everything has a price. Invite me over for some 1p and coffee..
 
Last edited:
GoldCrown

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I bought a few items from Atlas. I dealt with Eric before so I went back again. He is accommodating and spent some time on the phone. I'm ready to get started.

I'm using a well equipped repair lathe. I'll figure everything out as I move along...will learn from making mistakes. I’m beginning with Uniloc jump pin/insert. I think I'll start out by chucking/turning the blank about 95%.... will face the open end , drill, insert pin... put a driver on the pin ...chuck the driver and finish the blank. Does that sound right?

For now I'll take any suggestions about sequence (pinning, turning). I'm ok with finishing. Will use CA or Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Thanks for your help. Frank
 
Last edited:
cueman

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I usually put the joint protector pin in while still oversized to make it easier to center the pin. Once that half is turned to my satisfaction I turn the other half to match it.
 
GoldCrown

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
UNI-LOC CORP. OF AMERICA 54 WAREHOUSE LANE ROWLEY, MA 01969
1. # 2 CENTER DRILL TO A 5/16 DIAMETER 2. .390 DIAMETER DRILL 1.25 DEEP
3. 7/16-20 TAP 1.00 DEEP
4. BORE .446 DIAMETER .600 DEEP
5. REMOVE BURRS
6. EPOXY UNI-LOC INSERT IN PLACE
7. * MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDATION


The debut was typical...it is a learning experience.

I used #2 center...drilled a pilot with a stubby bit....that went fine...used the .390 drill...it wobbled as it went it. Drill speed was moderate. Maybe the bit it too long??. Went to 7/16 tap and went in straight and clean. BORE .446 DIAMETER .600 DEEP. Inserted Uniloc insert. Was tough going in. Would not seat all the way...has a wobble.

The .390 bit is a pilot point...is that ok. Not sure why it wobbled. Is there a particular drill bit I should be using? The pin driver I used is aluminum...It is binding to the insert slightly. Is there a certain UniLoc driver I should be using?
I used a maple dowel for this (practice). It's on the soft side. Should I use a harder wood or should it not matter. Thanks for your help.
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
GoldCrown said:
UNI-LOC CORP. OF AMERICA 54 WAREHOUSE LANE ROWLEY, MA 01969
1. # 2 CENTER DRILL TO A 5/16 DIAMETER 2. .390 DIAMETER DRILL 1.25 DEEP
3. 7/16-20 TAP 1.00 DEEP
4. BORE .446 DIAMETER .600 DEEP
5. REMOVE BURRS
6. EPOXY UNI-LOC INSERT IN PLACE
7. * MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDATION


The debut was typical...it is a learning experience.

I used #2 center...drilled a pilot with a stubby bit....that went fine...used the .390 drill...it wobbled as it went it. Drill speed was moderate. Maybe the bit it too long??. Went to 7/16 tap and went in straight and clean. BORE .446 DIAMETER .600 DEEP. Inserted Uniloc insert. Was tough going in. Would not seat all the way...has a wobble.

The .390 bit is a pilot point...is that ok. Not sure why it wobbled. Is there a particular drill bit I should be using? The pin driver I used is aluminum...It is binding to the insert slightly. Is there a certain UniLoc driver I should be using?
I used a maple dowel for this (practice). It's on the soft side. Should I use a harder wood or should it not matter. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

Good rule of thumb for drilling.
I use bits for metal not wood bits.
Indicate your work.

small center drill

Use a smaller drill to start your hole. At least 1 inch deep.

Use your boring bar to true up the hole. I usually bore up to maybe .010 to the size I need then I bore for the shank of the insert. I like .445 for the shank.

Finish drill 25/64 and tap 7/16x20. Use a drop of whatever you like for a lube. Tap slowly because that short distance for 7/16x20 can rip the threads easily.
For actual installation of the insert, I have insert pliers. They haven't been offered in years. Handy tool. Next option is to use a joint screw held by your drill chuck. Machine off the last thread on the front of the screw. Because your dealing with the insert only. The last thread on the screw can damage the first thread on the insert when you tighten it.. I'll post a picture of 2 screws for you to see.
Hope this helps.
picture.php


Forgot the most important step. Before you install the insert. Face your work.
 
Last edited:
B

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Michael Webb said:
Good rule of thumb for drilling.
I use bits for metal not wood bits.
Indicate your work.

small center drill

Use a smaller drill to start your hole. At least 1 inch deep.

Use your boring bar to true up the hole. I usually bore up to maybe .010 to the size I need then I bore for the shank of the insert. I like .445 for the shank.

Finish drill 25/64 and tap 7/16x20. Use a drop of whatever you like for a lube. Tap slowly because that short distance for 7/16x20 can rip the threads easily.
For actual installation of the insert, I have insert pliers. They haven't been offered in years. Handy tool. Next option is to use a joint screw held by your drill chuck. Machine off the last thread on the front of the screw. Because your dealing with the insert only. The last thread on the screw can damage the first thread on the insert when you tighten it.. I'll post a picture of 2 screws for you to see.
Hope this helps.
picture.php
Click to expand...
michael
i am not the op asking for help but that was a very detailed response
kudos to you for sharing your expertise
larry
 
GoldCrown

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Michael Webb said:
small center drill

Use a smaller drill to start your hole. At least 1 inch deep.

Use your boring bar to true up the hole. I usually bore up to maybe .010 to the size I need then I bore for the shank of the insert. I like .445 for the shank.

Finish drill 25/64 and tap 7/16x20. Use a drop of whatever you like for a lube. Tap slowly because that short distance for 7/16x20 can rip the threads easily.
For actual installation of the insert, I have insert pliers. They haven't been offered in years. Handy tool. Next option is to use a joint screw held by your drill chuck. Machine off the last thread on the front of the screw. Because your dealing with the insert only. The last thread on the screw can damage the first thread on the insert when you tighten it.. I'll post a picture of 2 screws for you to see.
Hope this helps.


Forgot the most important step. Before you install the insert. Face your work.
Click to expand...

First...thank you very much for taking the time and sharing. Its people like you make a difference. Very much appreciated.

Started off by using a dowel that is not 100% round. Did the best I could to get a good stating point. It looked pretty good when rotating. It might have been out too far from chuck...about 2".

Next I faced, center drilled, drilled about 1.25 with 5/16. Drilled 25/64 to 1.25, tapped slowly and manually...made few turns and backed out, cleaned, resumed. Bored to .446 .600 deep. I will use your sequence.

Using a joint screw to insert makes great sense. The driver I used does not feel right. How does the brass insert get removed after trial fit. It is snug.
I will use a metal bit 25/64. Please suggest a lube. I'm new to tapping. Never used any lubes when drilling.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top