using sanding mandrels

captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
Would anyone be willing to share (here or through PM) a video of how you use the sanding mandrels? Do you use the cutting tool while on lathe to get close and then just use sand paper as it spins until flush? Or do you cut it close when you taper down, then use mandrel?
 
JC

JC

Coos Cues
captainjko said:
Would anyone be willing to share (here or through PM) a video of how you use the sanding mandrels? Do you use the cutting tool while on lathe to get close and then just use sand paper as it spins until flush? Or do you cut it close when you taper down, then use mandrel?
Click to expand...

I have two sets, .846 and .850 and am using an epoxy finish.

I finish cut the joint to .850-.855 then install the pin. Then put the .846 mandrel on and sand it flush . Then put the .850 mandrel on tightly and put the finish on right over the nice concentric .002 lip and the mandrel itself. Then wet sand it down flush with the .850 mandrel and thus remove the finish from the mandrel at the same time. I lightly whack the mandrel on the work bench holding the cue like a hammer before removing it to make sure the bond cracks cleanly between the mandrel and the joint. Repeat on the shaft and the joint fit's very nicely and any other shaft you make will do the same. And the finish is very thin at the joint making chipping unlikely even if it's a bit thicker on down the cue.

I bought the .846 used from a member here after I already had the .850 set and think if I were to re design the process from scratch I may go with a .006-.007" differential. Although what I have works great I'm always afraid of sanding through the finish but it has yet to happen.



JC
 
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captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
JC said:
I have two sets, .846 and .850 and am using an epoxy finish.

I finish cut the joint to .850-.855 then install the pin. Then put the .846 mandrel on and sand it flush . Then put the .850 mandrel on tightly and put the finish on right over the nice concentric .002 lip and the mandrel itself. Then wet sand it down flush with the .850 mandrel and thus remove the finish from the mandrel at the same time. I lightly whack the mandrel on the work bench holding the cue like a hammer before removing it to make sure the bond cracks cleanly between the mandrel and the joint. Repeat on the shaft and the joint fit's very nicely and any other shaft you make will do the same. And the finish is very thin at the joint making chipping unlikely even if it's a bit thicker on down the cue.

I bought the .846 used from a member here after I already had the .850 set and think if I were to re design the process from scratch I may go with a .006-.007" differential. Although what I have works great I'm always afraid of sanding through the finish but it has yet to happen.



JC
Click to expand...

Thanks....... Will give this a try.....
 
Q

qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
Try some different techniques & see what works best for you. Some guys install the arbors dry & finish over them. Other guys finish the cue & install the arbors before sand/polish. IMO, there's no right or wrong way. There's only what works for you in your shop, with your finish, on your equipment.
 
captainjko

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
qbilder said:
Try some different techniques & see what works best for you. Some guys install the arbors dry & finish over them. Other guys finish the cue & install the arbors before sand/polish. IMO, there's no right or wrong way. There's only what works for you in your shop, with your finish, on your equipment.
Click to expand...

Do you guys just use sand paper , holding it level with mandrel, and let it glide on the mandrel until flush? Just trying to get an idea before tackling.... I know I will have to figure out what works best, but a good starting point is always great... Thanks for the replies....
 
Q

qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
The point of the arbor is to sand the finish flush with it. It won't let you easily sand the finish lower. If you do then you are doing something badly wrong. Proper sanding is an acquired skill crucial to a good looking finish. It takes practice to have confidence.

I don't mean to be so vague when you're wanting specifics, but this is one of those areas where you are best learning under fire. You'll find that the arbors work remarkably well & make it difficult to screw up too badly. There's nothing to be afraid of. If you are worried about ruining a cue, then make a mock-up cue or two for practicing the finish technique. Finish the cue & sand the finish as you normally would, except there's a carbide sleeve at the end to prevent you from sanding past a certain point. I bet if you give it a shot on a mock-up cue or two, you'll find that it makes finishes easier, not more complicated.
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
captainjko said:
Do you guys just use sand paper , holding it level with mandrel, and let it glide on the mandrel until flush? Just trying to get an idea before tackling.... I know I will have to figure out what works best, but a good starting point is always great... Thanks for the replies....
Click to expand...


On my cues. I install the joint and screw last. In that order. I turn it close to the pre-finish mandrel. Then sand to match. The mandrel serves a good purpose for me so I don't over sand and create a slope at the edge of the joint.
 
FLYINGSNAIL

FLYINGSNAIL

Koo Cues
Silver Member
These guys are giving you great info. . But at the end of the day you still need to do your R&D which mean you have to get some scarp woods and try it over and over and over and again. Until you think you get it right. That way you can also lean from your mistake and come back and ask more question.. If you never run into the wall and start asking question is just a bunch talk no action. Just my 2 cents.:thumbup:
 
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BarenbruggeCues

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
Oh, the art of sanding finish....definitely an acquired skill and one more easily learned by doing than being told how.
Don't worry...you'll sand deeper than you want to a few times before you learn what grit to use where and when to stop applying the pressure!
Rule of thumb for me with finish is, I generally start with a finer grit than I think I need. A lot of it has to do WITH your finish. Type used...how flat it was applied...how much larger in diameter it is than your finishing mandrel.
For me....I use no less than 1000 grit at the butt joint to start out. Many times 1200-1500 is a better starting point to size it down. But also remember I'm only about a thou or 2 over size with the finish to the mandrel when I start the wet sanding.
With a thin strip of appropriate grit paper at the joint it gets sized to my mandrel and then I wet polish the rest of the forearm to 12000 before it is put on the wheel. For me, the less time on the wheel the better. To much wheel can create heat and heat is not good for my finish. I do a 2 compound finish with 2 different wheels for the final.
Only took me about 50 tries to get it all figured out. At least I think I have it mostly figured out.

Many roads that lead to the end. Jump on one and start heading down it. Don't be afraid to make mistakes (you're going to anyway) and learn the process. Don't forget your helmet when banging your head against the wall for being stupid (sanding too much) during the process.
 
BHQ

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
captainjko said:
Do you guys just use sand paper , holding it level with mandrel, and let it glide on the mandrel until flush? Just trying to get an idea before tackling.... I know I will have to figure out what works best, but a good starting point is always great... Thanks for the replies....
Click to expand...
sneak up on it
like Brugge says, you'll probably sand thru your finish until you get the hang of it
i was spraying finish right over mandrel, but that tied up my mandrel too long.
so just made a few delrin "mandrels" .004" oversize. then spray over those.
unscrew those, slap on the mandrel for final sand

 
sileighty_guru

sileighty_guru

5A Grade Wood Pecker
Silver Member
What Brent said works for me as well... don't want my mandrels stuck to a joint until I get around to finish sanding. But I simply made delrin "spacers" install between mandrel and joint. Many ways to skin a cat 😉
 
BHQ

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
sileighty_guru said:
What Brent said works for me as well... don't want my mandrels stuck to a joint until I get around to finish sanding. But I simply made delrin "spacers" install between mandrel and joint. Many ways to skin a cat 😉
Click to expand...

i wipe a thin ca coat on my mandrel
when i see it starting to disappear,
i know i'm close.

im like a bull in a chinashop sometimes,
i NEED something to slow me down :yeah:

 
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