Choice between cues

Best cue combining playing, build quality, warranty, value for money

  • Lucasi Hybrid Series

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • Players HXT

    Votes: 6 25.0%
  • Players Rawhide RH

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Pechauer JP-N

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Pechauer Pro H Sneaky Pete

    Votes: 7 29.2%
  • Pechauer Pool Cue Professional P-G 2

    Votes: 4 16.7%
  • Poison cues with Venom2 shaft

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Joss BB-1/101/201/10-01

    Votes: 3 12.5%
  • Meucci Pool Cue M1

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • Balabushka GB-1

    Votes: 1 4.2%
  • Katana with LD shaft

    Votes: 2 8.3%
  • Viking Exactshot

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Vikng with Vikore shaft

    Votes: 3 12.5%

  • Total voters
    24

vlahmapoutras

Registered
Hi everybody from The Netherlands.

I used to play quite a lot of pool in my 20s (now 37) but at some point stopped.I haven't played seriously for 10 years but now I grabbed my cue again.
I used to play with an Adam cue and some cheaper before. I never went too deep on the different tips, shafts or other technical characteristics of a cue, just practice, practice and some tournaments. The Adam cue is a 20oz with maple shaft and a metal joint. So the cues that I own were left in a case for 10 years. All of the shafts have dents mostly because of former use but still roll straight.They are just a bit annoying when playing cause I can feel them while cueing. So I decided to spend some money on upgrading.
I read a lot about low deflection and though I did't use much english in my play I was wondering if I should start with a LD shaft or maple type? Since I am starting from zero again I was wondering if it is better to start with a LD or a maple since changing later would be more difficult. I am going for a 190z weight.
I have narrowed(?) my choices to these cues:

Lucasi Hybrid Series
Players HXT
Players Rawhide RH
Pechauer JP-N
Pechauer Pro H Sneaky Pete
Pechauer Pool Cue Professional P-G 2
Poison cues with Venom2 shaft
Joss BB-1
Joss 101/201/10-01
Meucci Pool Cue M1
Balabushka GB-1
Katana with LD shaft
Viking Exactshot
Vikng with Vikore shaft

I would like to hear your opinions on which to choose and why. I know of course that there are multiple variables but I am looking for your views regarding playing, build quality, warranty, value for money.Since there are multiple choices it might also help other people with their choice for a new cue

So that's my first post and thanks in advance for your help to a former pool addict.

Cheers...
 
Last edited:

Johnny Rosato

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi everybody from The Netherlands.

I used to play quite a lot of pool in my 20s (now 37) but at some point stopped.I haven't played seriously for 10 years but now I grabbed my cue again.
I used to play with an Adam cue and some cheaper before. I never went too deep on the different tips, shafts or other technical characteristics of a cue, just practice, practice and some tournaments. The Adam cue is a 20oz with maple shaft and a metal joint. So the cues that I own were left in a case for 10 years. All of the shafts have dents mostly because of former use but still roll straight.They are just a bit annoying when playing cause I can feel them while cueing. So I decided to spend some money on upgrading.
I read a lot about low deflection and though I did't use much english in my play I was wondering if I should start with a LD shaft or maple type? Since I am starting from zero again I was wondering if it is better to start with a LD or a maple since changing later would be more difficult. I am going for a 190z weight.
I have narrowed(?) my choices to these cues:

Lucasi Hybrid Series
Players HXT
Players Rawhide RH
Pechauer JP-N
Pechauer Pro H Sneaky Pete
Pechauer Pool Cue Professional P-G 2
Poison cues with Venom2 shaft
Joss BB-1
Joss 101/201/10-01
Meucci Pool Cue M1
Balabushka GB-1
Katana with LD shaft
Viking Exactshot
Vikng with Vikore shaft

I would like to hear your opinions on which to choose and why. I know of course that there are multiple variables but I am looking for your views regarding playing, build quality, warranty, value for money.Since there are multiple choices it might also help other people with their choice for a new cue

So that's my first post and thanks in advance for your help to a former pool addict.

Cheers...
I have a 2010 Pechauer Pro-H, it's an incredible playing cue. Well worth what I paid, a little under $300 new. If it was ever stolen, I'd pay another $300 ransom!
Mine is 18.5, Juma ferrule and LePro tip @ 12.75mm
If your ordering it I would recommend getting a 2nd shaft with it. Good luck whatever you choose, Johnny - B'ham, Alabama
 
Last edited:

Chopdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would recommend removing the dents from your shafts and practicing with what you have for an extended period first.

Nothing wrong with what you have.

If you really insist on another cue then I might recommend the Pechauer or Joss.

But all that you cite are "decent" cues.

The Asian Balabushka is way over priced though. It makes it's money on the name.

Some you specify make and model, and others you specify only the shaft model....so it is really a strange list.

For example you specify the Viking Exactshot, which is a shaft, and you specify the Joss BB-1 which is a model of butt. Joss offers standard maple shaft, high performance maple shaft, and a laminated type high performance shaft. The butt selection has nothing to do with that.

You say you didn't play much English. Fair enough.

I would say you should play as much or as little of whatever is necessary to play the shot at hand, and you should be able to do it with whatever cue is in your hand. Concentrate on that.

LD just reduces the necessity of compensation, nothing more. But you still have to compensate for the characteristics of the cue and it is different on every shot. Nothing replaces practice.

Practice, play, and hand around here and talk.

The "upgrade" you seek may not be as much of an upgrade as you think. Perhaps not at all.

I am a collector, used to be a player. I have experience with many cues and love to compare and contrast cues side by side.

I traded a Predator for a 1970's McDermott and I will tell you the old McDermott is the better cue in every aspect. And that Predator at the time was worth twice what the McDernott was.

You have some old Adam cues? Maybe I will trade you something modern for one of them. Post what you have. But I caution you. I may come out ahead. :wink: And I don't mean just on monetary value. And I may just remove the shaft dents myself.

Play your game, learn your game. You should adapt your game to the cue less than the cue has to adapt to your game. The cue cannot adapt at all anyway.


But if you insist on an "upgrade", put your money in the best cue you can without embellishments. In your price range we are not talking fancy. Start with the shaft, the business end. IMHO get the best sneaky pete you can afford in that price range.



.
 

vlahmapoutras

Registered
I would recommend removing the dents from your shafts and practicing with what you have for an extended period first.

Nothing wrong with what you have.

If you really insist on another cue then I might recommend the Pechauer or Joss.

But all that you cite are "decent" cues.

The Asian Balabushka is way over priced though. It makes it's money on the name.

Some you specify make and model, and others you specify only the shaft model....so it is really a strange list.

For example you specify the Viking Exactshot, which is a shaft, and you specify the Joss BB-1 which is a model of butt. Joss offers standard maple shaft, high performance maple shaft, and a laminated type high performance shaft. The butt selection has nothing to do with that.

You say you didn't play much English. Fair enough.

I would say you should play as much or as little of whatever is necessary to play the shot at hand, and you should be able to do it with whatever cue is in your hand. Concentrate on that.

LD just reduces the necessity of compensation, nothing more. But you still have to compensate for the characteristics of the cue and it is different on every shot. Nothing replaces practice.

Practice, play, and hand around here and talk.

The "upgrade" you seek may not be as much of an upgrade as you think. Perhaps not at all.

I am a collector, used to be a player. I have experience with many cues and love to compare and contrast cues side by side.

I traded a Predator for a 1970's McDermott and I will tell you the old McDermott is the better cue in every aspect. And that Predator at the time was worth twice what the McDernott was.

You have some old Adam cues? Maybe I will trade you something modern for one of them. Post what you have. But I caution you. I may come out ahead. :wink: And I don't mean just on monetary value. And I may just remove the shaft dents myself.

Play your game, learn your game. You should adapt your game to the cue less than the cue has to adapt to your game. The cue cannot adapt at all anyway.


But if you insist on an "upgrade", put your money in the best cue you can without embellishments. In your price range we are not talking fancy. Start with the shaft, the business end. IMHO get the best sneaky pete you can afford in that price range.



.

Thanks for taking the time for such an extensive, informative and very interesting reply.Where I do not mention the shaft type I imply that the basic shaft that each company provides is used.
 

nj82tj

The dude abides.
Silver Member
I had a Pechauer Pro Sneaky that I wish I never got rid of. It played really well with the standard maple shaft at 12.75mm.
 

vlahmapoutras

Registered
I would recommend removing the dents from your shafts and practicing with what you have for an extended period first.

Nothing wrong with what you have.

If you really insist on another cue then I might recommend the Pechauer or Joss.

But all that you cite are "decent" cues.

The Asian Balabushka is way over priced though. It makes it's money on the name.

Some you specify make and model, and others you specify only the shaft model....so it is really a strange list.

For example you specify the Viking Exactshot, which is a shaft, and you specify the Joss BB-1 which is a model of butt. Joss offers standard maple shaft, high performance maple shaft, and a laminated type high performance shaft. The butt selection has nothing to do with that.

You say you didn't play much English. Fair enough.

I would say you should play as much or as little of whatever is necessary to play the shot at hand, and you should be able to do it with whatever cue is in your hand. Concentrate on that.

LD just reduces the necessity of compensation, nothing more. But you still have to compensate for the characteristics of the cue and it is different on every shot. Nothing replaces practice.

Practice, play, and hand around here and talk.

The "upgrade" you seek may not be as much of an upgrade as you think. Perhaps not at all.

I am a collector, used to be a player. I have experience with many cues and love to compare and contrast cues side by side.

I traded a Predator for a 1970's McDermott and I will tell you the old McDermott is the better cue in every aspect. And that Predator at the time was worth twice what the McDernott was.

You have some old Adam cues? Maybe I will trade you something modern for one of them. Post what you have. But I caution you. I may come out ahead. :wink: And I don't mean just on monetary value. And I may just remove the shaft dents myself.

Play your game, learn your game. You should adapt your game to the cue less than the cue has to adapt to your game. The cue cannot adapt at all anyway.


But if you insist on an "upgrade", put your money in the best cue you can without embellishments. In your price range we are not talking fancy. Start with the shaft, the business end. IMHO get the best sneaky pete you can afford in that price range.



.

And when I say Viking Exactshot I mean a Viking cue with that shaft.
 

vlahmapoutras

Registered
Does anybody know what are the differences between the Pechauer Pro H Sneaky Petes in the Pro Series (H) and the Pro Series (G) ?
 
Last edited:

AlexandruM

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I tried couple of cues you are choosing from, and here are my thoughts:
1) All cues you listed are good quality cues, and should provide almost the same quality for the same money.
2) If it possible, buy a cue and 2 shafts one standard and one LD, so you can try both them, anytime. From my experience, after some time you are tempted to try an LD shaft if you have a standard one, and vice versa.
3) Because you (and I) are from Europe, you have to look for a cue that have a common joint pin so you can easy find a shaft in your local market, if you want to replace or upgrade. In my country (Romania) is hard to find a LD shaft with Pechauer Joint, Poison bullet joint or 5/16x18 pin (Players, Meucci). Keep in mind that unilok joint is always more expensive than other joint.
4) Try to choose a cue that can change the weight.

My advice is to choose a Joss cue, with Joss you have a great history behind the brand, great quality, common joint (you can use even Mezz shafts) and great playing characteristics.
 
Last edited:

ddg45

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi everybody from The Netherlands.

I used to play quite a lot of pool in my 20s (now 37) but at some point stopped.I haven't played seriously for 10 years but now I grabbed my cue again.
I used to play with an Adam cue and some cheaper before. I never went too deep on the different tips, shafts or other technical characteristics of a cue, just practice, practice and some tournaments. The Adam cue is a 20oz with maple shaft and a metal joint. So the cues that I own were left in a case for 10 years. All of the shafts have dents mostly because of former use but still roll straight.They are just a bit annoying when playing cause I can feel them while cueing. So I decided to spend some money on upgrading.
I read a lot about low deflection and though I did't use much english in my play I was wondering if I should start with a LD shaft or maple type? Since I am starting from zero again I was wondering if it is better to start with a LD or a maple since changing later would be more difficult. I am going for a 190z weight.
I have narrowed(?) my choices to these cues:

Lucasi Hybrid Series
Players HXT
Players Rawhide RH
Pechauer JP-N
Pechauer Pro H Sneaky Pete
Pechauer Pool Cue Professional P-G 2
Poison cues with Venom2 shaft
Joss BB-1
Joss 101/201/10-01
Meucci Pool Cue M1
Balabushka GB-1
Katana with LD shaft
Viking Exactshot
Vikng with Vikore shaft

I would like to hear your opinions on which to choose and why. I know of course that there are multiple variables but I am looking for your views regarding playing, build quality, warranty, value for money.Since there are multiple choices it might also help other people with their choice for a new cue

So that's my first post and thanks in advance for your help to a former pool addict.

Cheers...
I've had a Players HXT and it was fine, and a Pechauer JP-N that was truly high quality, have tried a Joss and didn't care for it. My favorite of all is now a Lucasi custom LZL-14.but paid an extra $60 and upgraded to a Hybrid shaft, which gives me the best of both worlds. I have a leather wrap (which I prefer to rubber) and a 3/8x10 joint, which I prefer to the unilock. For just over $300 I got a bargain on a well made, beautiful cue with quality inlays and points and the hybrid laminated shaft. It's a solid player with a lifetime warranty. No brainer...
 

vlahmapoutras

Registered
I tried couple of cues you are choosing from, and here are my thoughts:
1) All cues you listed are good quality cues, and should provide almost the same quality for the same money.
2) If it possible, buy a cue and 2 shafts one standard and one LD, so you can try both them, anytime. From my experience, after some time you are tempted to try an LD shaft if you have a standard one, and vice versa.
3) Because you (and I) are from Europe, you have to look for a cue that have a common joint pin so you can easy find a shaft in your local market, if you want to replace or upgrade. In my country (Romania) is hard to find a LD shaft with Pechauer Joint, Poison bullet joint or 5/16x18 pin (Players, Meucci). Keep in mind that unilok joint is always more expensive than other joint.
4) Try to choose a cue that can change the weight.
5)

My advice is to choose a Joss cue, with Joss you have a great history behind the brand, great quality, common joint (you can use even Mezz shafts) and great playing characteristics.

Thanks for the reply. Pechauer has a pretty standard 5/16 X 14 joint just like Joss so I see no difference in difficulty to find shafts. Both are nice quality brands.
 

vlahmapoutras

Registered
Pechauer standard isn't a speed joint?

https://www.seyberts.com/pins


According to a member here
"the Pechauer "Speed Joint". As stated, it is not mentioned at all on Pechauer's website, so we never get any info on the actual dimensions of this joint pin. It looks much like the typical 5/16X14 joints in so many other brands (Schon, Joss, Predator, etc), but the actual pin,which goes directly into the wood of the butt without any phenolic type of material, outside of the Pechauer done piloting of the shaft which accomodates the unique shoulder and thread design of their speed joint, and looks like it has a larger diameter pin than those others just mentioned. The Speed Joint, I might add, is very precise, much like a true resistence joint, where the closer one gets to totally tightening the joint the snugger the fit becomes. "
Also the shaft that OB recommends for the Pechauer Pro series cues is the OB+ 5/16 x 14 Thread Silver Ring High Performance Cue Shaft
https://www.obcues.com/products/OB-Classic%2b-Standard-Joint-Plus-Shaft.html

It seems that the speed joint is a variation of a 5/16x14
 
Last edited:

vlahmapoutras

Registered
Just wanted to thank you all on your contributions. I went for the Pechauer Pro-H. It's a beautiful in its simplicity, well-constructed cue. Excellent cue at a nice price!
 

vlahmapoutras

Registered
I also contacted Pechauer for the joint type on my cue and they answered

"Our joint is our own speed joint. The threads start out as normal 5/16 x 14, but then expand out to a larger shoulder."

in case that helps anyone!
 

measureman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just wanted to thank you all on your contributions. I went for the Pechauer Pro-H. It's a beautiful in its simplicity, well-constructed cue. Excellent cue at a nice price!

Let us know how a non Pechauer shaft fits on that pin.
And good luck with that.
 

measureman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I also contacted Pechauer for the joint type on my cue and they answered

"Our joint is our own speed joint. The threads start out as normal 5/16 x 14, but then expand out to a larger shoulder."

in case that helps anyone!

I had a Pechauer and called them to see what other shafts will fit that speed joint.
The arrogant person laughed and said you have to buy an extra shaft from us only.
No,no i dont I sold the cue.
 

RiverCity

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I had a Pechauer and called them to see what other shafts will fit that speed joint.
The arrogant person laughed and said you have to buy an extra shaft from us only.
No,no i dont I sold the cue.

Its a half threaded 5/16 14 pin. To make a non Pechauer shaft work on a Pechauer, all you need to do is to bore out the shaft insert to the major diameter of the pin, however deep it is (cant remember at this moment and dont have one in front of me to measure, something like 3/8-1/2" or so).

Any reputable cue repair person can accomplish this in 5 minutes or so.
 

vlahmapoutras

Registered
I had a Pechauer and called them to see what other shafts will fit that speed joint.
The arrogant person laughed and said you have to buy an extra shaft from us only.
No,no i dont I sold the cue.

Based on personal experience I think you might refer to a rude reseller since every time I contacted them they were very polite, quick to reply and prompted me to other shops which could supply me with shafts.
 
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