What makes a good break cue?

Hidy Ho

Hidy Ho

Missed 4 rail hanger!!!
Silver Member
I just wanted to hear some perspective on what makes a cue a good break cue? Is is mostly in shaft taper and the tip? How does butt construction affect a good break cue.

Also, is jump/break cue an oxymoron statement?

Does breaking hard with the playing cue have any adverse effect to the cue? does it stress the joint? warp the shaft? etc.

Inquiring mind wants to know.
 
i like one that is fairly low deflection,but stiff.i make mine slightly bigger at the joint maybe .850" which is quite abit bigger than my standard and with a stiff shaft taper and a very hard tip.i also want a fat a-joint and good stiff wood up front.


i think it is better to have a dedicated jumper and breaker,but i do think it is possible to make one that does both well.i think high delfection with the hardest tip possible for a jumper is the key.fat shaft all the way down and maybe 13.5-14mm at the tip,but for a break cue i wouldn't want more than 13.25mm

breaking hard is Ok for the cue,but i think it wears tips out faster and makes them harder.i also think certain break styles will stress the wood fibers in the shaft,ala Johnny Archer.i wouldn't want to have to play with a shaft he had on his break cue for 2 years.

of course this is all just my opinion.
 
masonh said:
i like one that is fairly low deflection,but stiff.i make mine slightly bigger at the joint maybe .850" which is quite abit bigger than my standard and with a stiff shaft taper and a very hard tip.i also want a fat a-joint and good stiff wood up front.


i think it is better to have a dedicated jumper and breaker,but i do think it is possible to make one that does both well.i think high delfection with the hardest tip possible for a jumper is the key.fat shaft all the way down and maybe 13.5-14mm at the tip,but for a break cue i wouldn't want more than 13.25mm

breaking hard is Ok for the cue,but i think it wears tips out faster and makes them harder.i also think certain break styles will stress the wood fibers in the shaft,ala Johnny Archer.i wouldn't want to have to play with a shaft he had on his break cue for 2 years.

of course this is all just my opinion.
Click to expand...


hay mason i don't think you've ever posted any pictures of break cues you've made. any break cues in the works?
 
Low deflection is a big plus.
Weight generally depends on the individual, and the way that they hit the ball. That said, a physically strong and coordinated player will be best served with a lighter cue.
Jump-Break cues are no good for serious players, (in my opinion) because the properties of a good jump cue and a good break cue will conflict, so compromise will be inevitable.
 
i mad eone jump/break and i was pretty happy with it even though like Sheldon said it is always somewhat of a compromise.it broke and jumped very well.i put pictures up here a long time ago.i made it for myself,but was talked out of it the first night i took it into the pool hall.
 
Jazz said:
I just wanted to hear some perspective on what makes a cue a good break cue? Is is mostly in shaft taper and the tip? How does butt construction affect a good break cue.

Also, is jump/break cue an oxymoron statement?

Does breaking hard with the playing cue have any adverse effect to the cue? does it stress the joint? warp the shaft? etc.

Inquiring mind wants to know.
Click to expand...

Jazz, I have been experimenting with a number of designs. What I have come up with, is a small diameter butt around 1.20 at the butt cap and .875 at the joint, that is 30 inches long. With a shaft that is also 30 inches long at is .875 at the joint and 13.5 mm at the tip. The ferrule I use is solid canvas phenolic and depending upon the tip the customer wants, I can just round off the ferrule or put a leather or a white diamond tip on it.

I do not core out the ferrule on my jump break shafts, instead I bore the center of the shaft 1 1/2 deep 5/16 diameter. Then I cut a piece of phenolic rod 2 1/2 inches long and turn down 1 1/2 inch to around .311, and screw and epoxy it.

If any doesn't think this is a good design try it you may like it, I have had no complaints to date, and I can't build as fast as I can sell the few I have time to make.

take care
 
manwon said:
Jazz, I have been experimenting with a number of designs. What I have come up with, is a small diameter butt around 1.20 at the butt cap and .875 at the joint, that is 30 inches long. With a shaft that is also 30 inches long at is .875 at the joint and 13.5 mm at the tip. The ferrule I use is solid canvas phenolic and depending upon the tip the customer wants, I can just round off the ferrule or put a leather or a white diamond tip on it.

I do not core out the ferrule on my jump break shafts, instead I bore the center of the shaft 1 1/2 deep 5/16 diameter. Then I cut a piece of phenolic rod 2 1/2 inches long and turn down 1 1/2 inch to around .311, and screw and epoxy it.

If any doesn't think this is a good design try it you may like it, I have had no complaints to date, and I can't build as fast as I can sell the few I have time to make.

take care
Click to expand...

Curious .. why 60'? That would come up to my nose!!!
 
I agree with a Fat joint!:thumbup:


Strong taper,about 18oz,wood to wood joint,1/4"-1/2" ferrule, and a Purple heart shafts hit like a baseball bat.

Chris
 
Jazz said:
Curious .. why 60'? That would come up to my nose!!!
Click to expand...

Because it increase the length of your follow through stoke by two inches, which keeps the tip on the cue ball longer. This will give you more power and action whether breaking hard or soft.
 
manwon said:
Jazz, I have been experimenting with a number of designs. What I have come up with, is a small diameter butt around 1.20 at the butt cap and .875 at the joint, that is 30 inches long. With a shaft that is also 30 inches long at is .875 at the joint and 13.5 mm at the tip. The ferrule I use is solid canvas phenolic and depending upon the tip the customer wants, I can just round off the ferrule or put a leather or a white diamond tip on it.

I do not core out the ferrule on my jump break shafts, instead I bore the center of the shaft 1 1/2 deep 5/16 diameter. Then I cut a piece of phenolic rod 2 1/2 inches long and turn down 1 1/2 inch to around .311, and screw and epoxy it.

If any doesn't think this is a good design try it you may like it, I have had no complaints to date, and I can't build as fast as I can sell the few I have time to make.

take care
Click to expand...

this actually sounds pretty cool but i'm only 64 in
 
manwon said:
Because it increase the length of your follow through stoke by two inches, which keeps the tip on the cue ball longer. This will give you more power and action whether breaking hard or soft.
Click to expand...

I can use extra two inches!!!!!





My height .. that's what I had in mind.
 
The objective in breaking is to pocket a ball or balls AND park the cueball in the middle of the table..
I like a stiff shaft, stiff joint and comfortable handle.
You want that cue to accelerate through the cueball, so the lighter the better for me. About 17.5 to 18 is good for me.
Best breaker I made was a one-piece butt made of laminated bubinga .
My brother has it now and won't let it go.
 
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