Home shaft cleaning ideas
- Thread starter ftgokie
- Start date
There must be 100 threads on this exact issue.
I use denatured alcohol with a magic eraser, then i will put a small amount of pure carnauba wax on the shaft, polish it out, then burnish with a piece of leather or a piece of cardboard.
I have also used cue silk and cue dr. slick agent.
I use denatured alcohol with a magic eraser, then i will put a small amount of pure carnauba wax on the shaft, polish it out, then burnish with a piece of leather or a piece of cardboard.
I have also used cue silk and cue dr. slick agent.
Soft scrub, alcohol, or magic eraser, and then a super fine grit sand paper. Don't do this too often though as it'll eventually reduce the diameter of your shaft. All abrasives will, that's the nature of them, but it's the only way to really get your shaft clean. After that burnish it real good with a piece of leather or something to help seal it and prevent it from getting dirty. Also, regular maintainence will help you from having to do these deep cleanings too often. Use a piece of leather, or a q-wiz, or super fine grit of paper ever so often, even though the latter two are slightly abrasive as well. Hope this helps. You might also do a search for shaft cleaning.
Da Bank said:There must be 100 threads on this exact issue.
I use denatured alcohol with a magic eraser, then i will put a small amount of pure carnauba wax on the shaft, polish it out, then burnish with a piece of leather or a piece of cardboard.
I have also used cue silk and cue dr. slick agent.
Very good post, most people don't use card board any more and the stuff is great for burnishing and polishing a shaft. :smile:
I had a hooker who use to live down the street from me, who also played lots of different pool games. She told me many times that she always used card board to polish John's shaft, she said that there was nothing better for buffing out wood, and she certainly had a great deal of practice.:yeah: I don't know how many cues she owned, but she apparently buffed a lot of shafts, the only thing I thought was kinda strange is that all her cues were named John!!!!!!!!!!:thumbup:
Take Care!!
There is no better shaft cleaner than Magic Erasor with some alcohol to dampen it. The Magic Erasor will leave it feeling sort of "hairy" so hit it with a couple swipes with 800 grit sandpaper, then 1000 grit or finer, then this... http://www.poolndarts.com/index.cfm...AE2&Fuseaction=Catalog.Product&productID=5426
Then burnish w/leather or brown paper bag, or cardboard. The cue wax is slicker than other carnuba waxes I've tried.
Then burnish w/leather or brown paper bag, or cardboard. The cue wax is slicker than other carnuba waxes I've tried.
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Clean hands make cleaning unnessessary. Always carry a Towel, or Square Baby Flannel to dry your sweaty hands, and you shaft will stay clean.
FYI.
FYI.
Rain-x. Yes, the windshield treatment product.ftgokie said:
softshot said:
But remember that the alcohol goes in the belly.
I agree Magic eraser with/without alcohol is quite effective.
If you're skeptical, or need to justify by paying a premium then I'm willing to sell you ordinary melamine foam at incredible mark-up. I'll call it Monster Eraser, inspired by the success of monster cable's marketing.
For the rest of us, you can sign up for a free samples and coupons from P&G. The catch, you have to share your story with them and allow them to send you marketing e-mails. Use a dedicated spam e-mail account for this purpose.
http://www.mrclean.com/en_US/sharethelove.do
If you're skeptical, or need to justify by paying a premium then I'm willing to sell you ordinary melamine foam at incredible mark-up. I'll call it Monster Eraser, inspired by the success of monster cable's marketing.
For the rest of us, you can sign up for a free samples and coupons from P&G. The catch, you have to share your story with them and allow them to send you marketing e-mails. Use a dedicated spam e-mail account for this purpose.
http://www.mrclean.com/en_US/sharethelove.do
ftgokie:ftgokie said:
Magic Eraser and alcohol are definitely the most effective and the best. However, you'll need to smooth and burnish the shaft afterwards, because the Magic Eraser and alcohol will raise the fibers of the wood, making it feel, for lack of a better term, "mossy." Lots of mentions of fine grit sandpaper in the replies thus far, and this will work, but as "trueblu8" mentions, this will quickly reduce the diameter of the shaft over an extended period of use.
Personally, I'd recommend super-fine steel wool (grade #0000 -- the finest) instead of sandpaper, for a couple of reasons:
1. Steel wool is not as susceptible to "pressure spots" from your hand as sandpaper is -- meaning, steel wool cushions and absorbs the uneven pressure from your hand much better than sandpaper, and distributes this pressure more evenly along the surface of the cue, resulting in less "ovaling" of the diameter of your cue.
2. Grade for grade, steel wool is less abrasive than sandpaper. Those fine steel fibers are simply less sharp than the razor sharp cutting edges of sandpaper grit.
3. Steel wool doesn't "clog" or fill-up like sandpaper does; not only because there's more volume to the puff of steel wool (than a flat piece of paper with sand grit glued to it), but also because steel wool quite simply doesn't remove nearly as much wood as sandpaper does -- not even close.
Any good hardware or paint supply store carries super-fine grade steel wool, which is used as a final finishing agent prior to applying primer. Here's a link for this special grade of steel wool at Home Depot:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?Ntk=AllProps&N=10000003+90191+500382&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&langId=-1
(To reiterate, grade #0000 is "super-fine," and is what you want.)
Nota Bene: one very special word of warning when you begin using steel wool as the sanding/burnishing agent after a Magic Eraser / alcohol cleaning:
* Make absolutely sure that the alcohol you use is 100% anhydrous -- meaning, no water in it! As "Da Bank" mentions, denatured alcohol, like that found at any hardware / paint supply store, is what you want. It is 100% anhydrous (it's Ethyl alcohol that has been denatured with Methyl [wood] alcohol to make it unfit for human consumption).
REASON: any water in the alcohol will be left behind on the shaft after the alcohol agent evaporates, and this water will be absorbed by the shaft. Any abrasive, no matter how fine, leaves a trace of itself on the surface; in the case of super-fine steel wool, these are microscopic bits of steel powder. In combination with the water left behind by the unpure alcohol, rust spots will actually appear on the shaft! Your shaft will look like it has German measles.
Simply avoid any alcohol that isn't water-free, insist on Denatured Alcohol, and you won't have to worry about this. This is the type of alcohol you want:http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=denatured+alcohol&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I hope this is very helpful information!
-Sean
I try to stay away from using liquids like water (magic eraser) and rubbing alcohol.
i have a q-wiz and i take the sanding part to the shaft(this takes away the chalk and brings back the natural wood) then i heavily condition the shaft with slyde rite talc let it get into the pores of the wood, wipe off the excess talc....burnish it with the other side of the q-wiz. then i wipe the shaft down with my lambskin shaft cloth (Dback).
i have a q-wiz and i take the sanding part to the shaft(this takes away the chalk and brings back the natural wood) then i heavily condition the shaft with slyde rite talc let it get into the pores of the wood, wipe off the excess talc....burnish it with the other side of the q-wiz. then i wipe the shaft down with my lambskin shaft cloth (Dback).
I use a microfibre cloth. It is specifically for windshield cleaning and it does an amazing job. I keep one in my bag and when it gets dirty I wipe it down. It's great because it doesn't wear down the shaft and even gives the shaft a sheen after a while. Best choice in my book.
Can get them at any auto parts store.
Can get them at any auto parts store.
JXMIKE:JXMIKE said:
Great feedback and suggestions -- especially about not using water. However, you placed the Magic Eraser product in parenthesis after the word "water" as if to imply Magic Eraser is a water-based product. It is not; it's a solid:
http://mrclean.com/en_US/products/eraser.shtml
However, in its normal use as intended by Proctor & Gamble, one would use water with it, and that's where in previous replies you see the mention of alcohol -- which is used in place of the water. Unlike water which adversely affects wood (e.g. absorbs into and causes wood to swell), alcohol quickly evaporates. As long as one uses alcohol which has not been doped or thinned with water (i.e. denatured alcohol), it quickly evaporates and leaves nothing behind.
Just thought I'd mention that clarification. However, it's nice to see the variety of replies, all with positive experiences supplied to help answer ftgokie's question! She's got a lot of good things to try now.
Warmest regards,
-Sean