Antuque Brunswick Table

Not sure of exact model but definitely not supposed to be cut in half!
It was built as a 1pc frame and at some point someone couldnt get it
where it was going!

The most important thing to look for is how much you are going to spend on this table. It is not a great table as far as antiques go. I would not give
more then a couple hundred dollars for it,if that. You could easily spend
1500-2000 on repairs, cloth,cushion,pockets,setup, etc, and still have a mediocre
table.

If you are looking for a project table, go for it! good luck!

I'd offer $250 and not go over $325 max.
Where are the slate suports? Or is this a 2-piece slate table. :scratchhead:
You can see the long support has been cut.
As Scruffy sez, probably a good project table.

Dartman said:

Where are the slate suports? Or is this a 2-piece slate table.

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Alot of antique tables only have a center support. Some are 3 piece some are 4 piece slate. The slates are pinned to keep them pretty close to even. And the slate and liner are usally a little thicker which helps it from sagging. The one thing you have to be careful about is if useing bees wax you should definatly have a drop cloth under the table.

schitzngigglz said:

The guy said there were 4 peices of slate. Has anyone ever seen a table like that? I assume that there is another brace that divides the side closest to the camera in the second picture. I told the guy that 3 peice was most common and he said that there may only be 3.

This is what I am looking for. Now I have some questions that I will need answers to before I buy.

Anyone else?

Rick

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Rick 4 piece slate is not uncommon with Antique tables. Actually like it because it makes each piece lighter to carry.

Antique Table

Hi Rick,

As others have suggested you could spend a lot of money fixing this table if hiring everything out. However, it does sound like you are interested in this as a project. The table is probably not worth a whole lot after restoration. You could certainly have a decent playing table after the intended repairs and also have something a little different.

If you are looking for a great playing table most of the work will go into the rails. You may want to do the frame, level the slates and re-cloth then just bolt the rails on as is. It really only takes about fifteen minutes to bolt the rails and pockets on and then see how it plays so you can better identify the problems the table might have. I just recently finished mine and really couldn't be happier. There are a few complaints I have but most of the tables I play on locally I have more complaints about.

I played on my table for years before doing any of the rail and pocket work it really needed. Certainly do not recommend that as I think my game actually suffered a bit as a result of dead rails and huge pockets.

I have outlined my whole project here:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=87941

I have seen a couple of ant. that have been cut in half, i won't work on those, i see it as opening a can of worms. another thing i would look at is the hardwear, make sure all the T-rails bolts are there. if your serious about the table, i would make sure all the T-rail bolts actually work in the slate( they bolt the rails on the side instead of underneath like new tables. i have seen many of the threads inside the slate stripped out. i would also figure that new slate bolt would be a good idea too.
can't see in the pic very well but those pockets look like #6 irons instead of #3 irons, pretty good chance that the rails were modified to accept the newer pockets. #6 pockets(these are what every external pocket table uses these days. #3 are ant. pockets. the sit on top of the rail and bolt from the underside(as do #6) but #6 have posts that go into the rail.

schitzngigglz said:

Bigkahuna, I have read your thread from beginning to end. It is very inspiring.

One of my wories is that this table has not been assembled in 2 years. I hope he has not lost any parts. Are there any components that are overly expensive to replace?

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Well, it certainly would not be hard to do an inventory of the hardware. I did have to buy one rail bolt and one barrel nut which I think was 35 bucks by the time it got to my door. The rail bolts on my table were an odd thread pitch. I certainly would not want to be missing too many pieces.

I myself would want to inspect the slates. Certainly not ideal the table to had been cut in half but the boards and carriage bolts look to be a decent repair as far as structure goes. I would want to check to be sure the frame is straight maybe using a level as a straight edge or something.

The refinishing of the table is really straight forward. I spent the most time on the issues that were affecting the playability of my table. My sister currently owns the Victorian home my table was in and they bought a new table for the billiard room. They really like it because it is new but they are not pool players so this thing to them is a decoration. it is a piece of junk to play on. My point here is as long as you are addressing the playability issues with this table you will have something that plays better than many of the cheapo furniture tables out there.

You indicated a couple of friends who are mechanics. I'd suggest taking one (or both) with you and do an inventory of the parts to make certain they're all there.......and more importantly, functional. Then as has already been suggested, make it a project for personal use because resale won't justify what you COULD put into it.

Good luck!

I didnt read all the post's but tables cut in half were because they were installed when the house was being built or installed through a window back then 80-100 yrs later someone wants to sell the table and no one wants to pay for a crane to take it out the window. I see it alot here in San Fransisco 5 story house with 30" hallways every 8 ft and you turn to go up or down.

Hardest part about a table cut in half is hiding the seam I know of several people who but tables and didnt know the had been cut inhalf. Matching the vennerwood up in color is what makes it hard you have to find old piano's with the thick venners to hopefully match up the wood and hide the seam.


4pc slates were common in the 1800 - early 1900 tooling wasnt around to cut or drill round holes in slate so they sangle cut the slate and shaped the pockets out off wood. The wood pocket also allowed a place to nail the leather pockets to under the felt.

Hopefully htis helps some nice find on the table.

Craig Herman
916-825-2036

schitzngigglz said:

Just wanted to let everyone know that I did buy the table. It is in pretty good shape as it is. I am going to set it up to see how it plays.

Thanks to everyone that helped.

Rick

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Best of luck Rick!!!:thumbup:

Yes, good luck with your find!