Anyone do this before?

Man that sucks, haven't done that in a long time!

And from what I can see the worst part ~~ ~~ TITLIST ~~ ~~ ouch!!!



Sorry, man that's gotta hurt

Paul
<@>

patrickcues said:

I had a pin come loose in a cue. So I took it out cleared the hole. Mixed up some epoxy put about a dime size amount a epoxy in the the hole, a little on the threads of the joint pin. Screwed the pin in.... Next thing I see is epoxy coming out the forearm right below the joint ring. Just one of these days when I shouldnt have gone into the shop!!!!! Needless to say I will not be sending this cue out!!!

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Is that a uni-loc radial pin or an after market one? I've hydraulicked a number of cues over the years inserting a pin but never with a properly made radial. Properly made they have .010 clearance on the bottom threads and if the instructions are properly followed, there is about .750 clearance past the bottom of the threads to permit safe glue up.

Dick

Just out of curiousity what do you do with it now.Do you wait till its dry and sand it then finish it, or is it unusable?

I had several cues do that in my early years. I tossed most of them. But then I got to thinking that maybe the epoxy coming through the grain would hold it together. I sanded one down and you could not even see where it had come out. I finished it and never had a problem. My guess is you won't have any problems with the cue. You could tell the customer about it and see if he wants it like it is.

I did that to the first cue I ever built. It was a rosewood handle into tiger I believe. For one thing, glue relief, and forearm type aside, I believe another part of the reason was because I screwed the pin in to fast. I've yet to have It happen since, glue relief or not, but i imagine the day will come at some point. I use slow set epoxy and only screw a few threads at a time letting the glue seep out in between. I don't know if I've just been lucky or if that actually helps.

I didn't like the crack there, so being My first cue and wanting to use It, I just made the collar long enough to cover It. Didn't exactly keep with what I originally had in mind, but It was playable and still is. Infact that cue plays better then most any I have buily, My Father used that cue for several years, and seems like everyone he let hit a ball or 2 with It loved the way It played as well. It wasn't very purdy though with that funky collar on It, and God rest His Soul, I use to hate that My dad insisted on using It and showing It to others.

Thanks for the info.It looks like a beautiful cue,I'll bet your son will love it.

Coming in second again.

This is the second time Chris beat me to the punch on a post and again I agree with him. I had one cue where I screwed the pin in too quickly. It split on a grain line just below the collar and started oozing epoxy. I was devistated and was cussing a blue streak. It was early in my cuebuilding and I decided to finish the cue anyway for the practice. I was suprised to find that when it was completed the cue hit fine.

I'll admit that hydrolocking during pin installation is a bit of a screw up, but the "blowout" is "nicely" coated with epoxy....duh. Since the epoxy is stronger than the wood, it really isn't a problem IMHO. I'd discuss it with the buyer and, if he agrees, send him the cue and let him try it. Then let him decide.

patrickcues said:

Bill:

I did this about 14 years ago on a cue and just trashed it. Since then I have learned some things! A lot of things actually! I didnt really think it would be a problem either. But I like said ealier I would rather be safe than sorry. I have already discussed it with the customer and he is no longer wanting the cue. So sometime down the road my son will have a very good looking and playing Titllist conversion to play with!

Thanks for the input!!!

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That's the way to go, You could barely see a split in mine, and It still played well. In Your picture I don't see one, The cue should be fine as long as there's just seepage, not a chunk of wood pushing out of the side, and the pin didn't move. It may be better to keep It in family. I have the one I mentioned back in My possession, so I know It's not gonna be floating around out there. It doesn't even go out of the house now.

That's why I like the brass version.
It's easier to route a glue channel on the side of the barrel.
I clear the tap down about 3/8 past the bottom of the pin.
I fill that hole with a maple piece that is around .300" diam by .250 thick.

Pin Design Change

Hi,

Like most cue makers I have put a lot of thought into to process control procedure concerning pin insertion. If the pin had a very small hole extruded thru the center, the excess glue at the bottom of the hole would hydraulic up the pin and create zero lateral pressure to the wood wall.

I was in the commercial diving business and we had underwater carbon steel burning rods for cutting steel underwater. These rods where 13" long and had a very tiny hole extruded thru the center. It seems to me that the technology exists to make this happen. If all pins had this functionality all cue makers would install a perfect pin installation every time with the annulus and hole bottom completely filled with the epoxy. Also to be considered is that fact that there is an expansion coefficient during the chemical curing process with some 2 part materials.

This is a good problem for Lee Malakoff to solve. If he could extrude a hole for all pins I am sure everyone would buy his pins. I use garlock inserts in my shafts and I drill a very small hole down the center for glue relief and I positively know the the entire hole and annulus is has zero glue gaps without pressure build up as the epoxy hydraulics out of the hole when I press the insert.

Rick Geschrey

scdiveteam said:

Hi,

Like most cue makers I have put a lot of thought into to process control procedure concerning pin insertion. If the pin had a very small hole extruded thru the center the excess glue at the bottom of the hole would hydraulic up the pin and create zero lateral pressure to the wood wall.

I was in the commerical diving business and we had underwater carbon steel burning rods for cutting steel underwater. These rods where 13" long and had avery tiny hole extruded thru the center. It seems to me that the technology exists to make this happen. If all pin had this functionality, all cue maker would install a perfect pin installation every time with the anulus and hole bottom completely filled with the epoxy.

This is a good problem for Lee Malakoff to solve. If he could extrude a hole for all pins I am sure everyone would by these pins. I use garlock inserts in my shafts and I drill a very small hole down the center for glue relief and I positively know the the entire hole and anulus is has zero glue gaps and the epoxy hydraulics out of the hole when I press the insert.

Rick Geschrey

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Ray Schuler beat you to it by well over 20 years on this one. His joint screws had a hole drilled all the way through. He could fill the hole completely up with expoxy and screw it in with no problem.

cueman said:

ray schuler beat you to it by well over 20 years on this one. His joint screws had a hole drilled all the way through. He could fill the hole completely up with expoxy and screw it in with no problem.

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brilliant!

Schuler Joint Pin!!!!

Thanks Chris,

I am a billiard player, knew Ray for many years and live in Palatine where his shop was located. I spent a few hours hanging around there and I own a Schuler Billiard Cue. I was also a dealer of Schuler Cues at my pool hall.

Now that you mention it, his pin is hollow but I did not know it's functionality. I truly believe he was very innovative in his joint design and now I have even more respect for him as an engineer. Also a great guy that we all miss.

Rick Geschrey