Well, I have been keeping busy, and last night I was able to take some passes on my Titlist project.
I feel that the Titlist conversion is one project that every up-and-coming cue maker simply must complete. The feather in the hat so to speak. All the 'greats' have done one or several conversions throughout their careers, so I feel a sense of connection to these great makers when I work on this cue. Also, the thought that the wood I'm working on is at least 60 years old, and was air-dried God only knows how long before that. Plus, I think they are really cool, and unless you totally screw something up, they play great too.
So, I actually had quite a bit of trouble with this one. The forearm area is a bit slender for how I make my butt. I am designed from the 'ground-up' as a 59" cue, so my dimensions may seem a bit off to other players and makers. But, I don't particularly care about any of that...
Anyway, the butt was too short. I felt it is important to retain the full splice construction, or what's the point? So this cue is full splice and the entire handle is the prong wood for a nice feedback. I could not do anything else, other than completely cover the points (which wouldn't work anyway because of how slender it is) with wrap. BUT, because of this odd configuration, where the points are pushed up further than 'normal' it allows me an inlay idea that I think is going to look very classy, old school and slightly unique.
Here are the pictures so far. I am not doing a step-by step on this one like I am doing with the Davis, but I think it's fun to share progress...
I feel that the Titlist conversion is one project that every up-and-coming cue maker simply must complete. The feather in the hat so to speak. All the 'greats' have done one or several conversions throughout their careers, so I feel a sense of connection to these great makers when I work on this cue. Also, the thought that the wood I'm working on is at least 60 years old, and was air-dried God only knows how long before that. Plus, I think they are really cool, and unless you totally screw something up, they play great too.
So, I actually had quite a bit of trouble with this one. The forearm area is a bit slender for how I make my butt. I am designed from the 'ground-up' as a 59" cue, so my dimensions may seem a bit off to other players and makers. But, I don't particularly care about any of that...
Anyway, the butt was too short. I felt it is important to retain the full splice construction, or what's the point? So this cue is full splice and the entire handle is the prong wood for a nice feedback. I could not do anything else, other than completely cover the points (which wouldn't work anyway because of how slender it is) with wrap. BUT, because of this odd configuration, where the points are pushed up further than 'normal' it allows me an inlay idea that I think is going to look very classy, old school and slightly unique.
Here are the pictures so far. I am not doing a step-by step on this one like I am doing with the Davis, but I think it's fun to share progress...
I have several old titlist wall hangers and one is in good enough shape to convert someday. It has tight points and is straight enough, it is also Brazilian rosewood. I have always figured the wood on your cue is a type of rosewood. It is common on old Brunswick's, do you no what type it is? Thanks Jim.
It is still a bit oversize so my fingers are crossed...
I used a Hardinge head to divide it; however it appears that things did not line up perfectly... Still scratching my head over that one, since all operations were completed without removing the cue from the head of course... It may be related to the center of the cue being moved from 'true' center due to the slight warpage of the cue... It gives me a headache, so I'll just stop there. It's done in any event.
