Blue Diamond Chalk Abrasive???
- Thread starter ace911
- Start date
A whole 1mm in difference is a lot for just chalking a stick, IMO. More info is needed, like how often has the tip been changed, and who did it, plus did you measure before and after each change? A time reference of how long you've played with it would help also. What kind of ferrule material is it, and was the cuemaker that told you it was the chalk, the same person that did a tip or cleaning?
I've seen a lot of hourglass shaped ferrules due to improper chalking, but it takes a long time to happen, and have seen it with Master regular chalk as the most common, especially on the cheaper ferrule material. I also believe, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, but Masters also makes the Blue Diamond chalk.
How do you chalk your stick? do you wipe or grind? The main cause I've come across for a big difference in ferrule size, especially at the very tip, is a tip was changed, and the repair person either put too small of a tip, or it wasn't centered and they sanded the ferrule down to match it. Also, chalk will NOT reduce the size of your shaft, only sanding, or an abrasive pad will do that
Just my view,
Dave
I've seen a lot of hourglass shaped ferrules due to improper chalking, but it takes a long time to happen, and have seen it with Master regular chalk as the most common, especially on the cheaper ferrule material. I also believe, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, but Masters also makes the Blue Diamond chalk.
How do you chalk your stick? do you wipe or grind? The main cause I've come across for a big difference in ferrule size, especially at the very tip, is a tip was changed, and the repair person either put too small of a tip, or it wasn't centered and they sanded the ferrule down to match it. Also, chalk will NOT reduce the size of your shaft, only sanding, or an abrasive pad will do that
Just my view,
Dave
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I had the cue for 4 years, it has a melamine ferrule. I play a lot. The tip might have been changed 20 times. The cuemaker sands the tip to get it flush with the ferrule. I know obviously he might hit the ferrule with sandpaper a little everytime he changes the tip. I do have a bit of the hourglass thing going on, which is from chalk. The thing is I like to wear my tips down low, and also my shape my tips really round, and I have to get the edges when I chalk, which is forcing me to touch the ferrule.
I wipe the chalk across the tip. Yes the same cuemaker working on my cue is telling me this. But also, when it gets bad, he'll even it out and sand it some more so it doesn't have the hourglass shape. Blue Diamond is made by Longoni. I think Blue Diamond sticks to the tip better because it is more abrasive. But I am starting to think that it might be more abrasive on my ferrule than regular Master Chalk.
I wipe the chalk across the tip. Yes the same cuemaker working on my cue is telling me this. But also, when it gets bad, he'll even it out and sand it some more so it doesn't have the hourglass shape. Blue Diamond is made by Longoni. I think Blue Diamond sticks to the tip better because it is more abrasive. But I am starting to think that it might be more abrasive on my ferrule than regular Master Chalk.
All chalk is abrasive. That is the nature of its ability to improve friction. I would expect Blue Diamond to be a little more abrasive since it creates more adhesion and spin. If one makes an observation, like you just did. Which leads you to guess that the Blue Diamond chalk brand is wearing your ferrule out prematurely, then do a test. Start with two identical shafts with whatever ferrule/tip combo you decide. Measure all dimensions accurately, and begin play while using BD chalk on one, and master chalk on the other(control) shaft. Hopefully keep track of hours played. We want both shafts played for about the same duration.
Measure both ferrules carefully at the start of the test. To be fair, the players must chalk the cues and clean the shafts in the same manner you do. Now run the test for as many hours as you may assume to cause significant and measurable results. Make careful measurements and compare. See nothing? Then just continue for more hours. I suspect you will see very little difference. Now this is crucial: DO NOT let any cue repair person touch the shafts, no cleaning or shaping of the tip. My suspicion of the real culprit here lies in the methods used to keep the shaft clean, and/or replace or groom the tip. The repair person( the Butler) did it!
Measure both ferrules carefully at the start of the test. To be fair, the players must chalk the cues and clean the shafts in the same manner you do. Now run the test for as many hours as you may assume to cause significant and measurable results. Make careful measurements and compare. See nothing? Then just continue for more hours. I suspect you will see very little difference. Now this is crucial: DO NOT let any cue repair person touch the shafts, no cleaning or shaping of the tip. My suspicion of the real culprit here lies in the methods used to keep the shaft clean, and/or replace or groom the tip. The repair person( the Butler) did it!
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You asked this same question in the "Main Forum" yesterday and got 5 pgs. worth of responses telling you the same thing. You are chalking incorrectly. If you can't handle the answer, then don't ask the question.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=192788
Those people were perfectly honest with you yet you want to go into defense mode and denial so you respond with this:
"Listen, since I apparently don't know how to apply chalk on a tip, if any of you want to play some. Please come to Master Billiards in Queens, NYC and I will play you some. Bet something.
I was just curious to see if anyone had the same problem with blue diamond chalk. But apparently everyone is an all knowing railbird/nit. I now realized I asked this in the wrong fourm anyway. I should it be in the "Ask The Cuemaker" because they would know better."
Any monkey can be taught to pocket balls but few will understand the reason for chalking the tip correctly. You should feel fortunate because you're way ahead of the pack. You found-out on your own that chalking incorrectly damages the ferrule.
Now, any other questions for the CMs while you're here?
Blue Diamond is reportedly using heavy metals in the chalk like the old Masters had in it. Since it is made for the overseas market it is not held to the same rules as our American use chalk. So that would explain why it is more abrasive. But correct chalking methods should eliminate your problems.
Hows the stroke? Do you break with the cue?
I've seen burn marks on ferrules due to how people stroke. Especially on the soft Predator ferrules, when they use alot of english or miscue, and the ferrule ends up either hitting the cue ball or the felt, scratching it.
Sometimes when I use a crazy break with a long follow through, I end up dragging the ferrule along the felt for a feet or two, and it ends up creating a burn mark on my ferrule, where its deeper on the tip side.
If the CM that did the repairs sands it down to get the tip flush with the ferrule, do you measure it after every replacement, to see if hes the culprit? Do you also have it cleaned or conditioned?
I've seen burn marks on ferrules due to how people stroke. Especially on the soft Predator ferrules, when they use alot of english or miscue, and the ferrule ends up either hitting the cue ball or the felt, scratching it.
Sometimes when I use a crazy break with a long follow through, I end up dragging the ferrule along the felt for a feet or two, and it ends up creating a burn mark on my ferrule, where its deeper on the tip side.
If the CM that did the repairs sands it down to get the tip flush with the ferrule, do you measure it after every replacement, to see if hes the culprit? Do you also have it cleaned or conditioned?
Yes, Blue Diamond has Mercury or Lead in it, so it is supposed to be more abrasive.
I don't break with my cue, but I'll tell you what, my break cue which has something like a phenolic tip, is worn down, and needs to be replaced, I scuffed it once. So I assume that the chalk is so abrasive it is wearing down the phenolic also. I only had the break cue for a year.
I might get the shaft cleaned 2-3 times a year or so.
I don't break with my cue, but I'll tell you what, my break cue which has something like a phenolic tip, is worn down, and needs to be replaced, I scuffed it once. So I assume that the chalk is so abrasive it is wearing down the phenolic also. I only had the break cue for a year.
I might get the shaft cleaned 2-3 times a year or so.
Dont take this the wrong way but if your wearing out a phenolic tip in a year your doing something really wrong....Or your trying to bad mouth BD chalk for some other reason
why would chalk end up thinning ur ferrule or shaft anyways? u're chalking the tip so i dont see how it would affect the ferrule. no part of the chalk should be touching the ferrule if u're doing it correctly. at worse u get some chalk dust going down to the ferrule but thats about it. also, chalk will not wear down ur shaft. that just makes no sense. perhaps getting it cleaned to get rid of the chalk might wear it down very slightly but other than that chalk will not affect the diameters of ur shaft or ferrule.
Where did you hear this?
What were the qualifications of the individual making this statement?
The short answer is no - not if done by a COMPETENT repair person.
My humble advice - though I know you didn't ask for it and won't take it is:
1. Find a competent cue repair person and do what they tell you.
2. Stop talking to "guys in the pool room".
HTH
Dale