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DaveK
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08-09-2010, 10:47 PM

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Originally Posted by cuesmith View Post
It's not simply adding a joint that makes the difference. It's all the things you mentioned above, plus the fact that the balance can be controlled better when you make a cue from scratch and the construction techniques are such that you have many more options, not just in the cosmetics but also the adhesives and materials used, the butt and shaft tapers etc... Unless you're making the one piece cues from scratch, which I know of no custom cuemakers doing, you can't get the options and quality materials that have never been used in house cues. One piece house cues have always been the cheapest cues available. There's a reason for that! The old Titlists are sometimes an exception to this rule, but they are usually "converted" and often have maple handles under the wraps and when it's cut up to make the conversion, the cuemaker has ways of improving the performance over a one piece cue. I know the "old growth wood" in the old cues can be better, but often the adhesives break down and that can easily outweigh the benefit of the old wood.
Thanks for the reply Sherm. I guess my question was about a theoretical one piece cue as opposed to the ubiquitous "house cue". I would never look for a high performance cue to hit like a house cue.

There are quite a few one piece custom snooker cue makers, perhaps the OPs general question could be better answered by snooker players who may have experience with one-piece, two-piece (the even-split cue), and even their also common 3/4-cue (long shaft, short butt). As you say there are no custom one-piece pool cue makers.

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08-09-2010, 10:55 PM

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Originally Posted by cut shot View Post
This guy I know & a good player always uses a one piece cue. I asked him why & he stated that no matter what joint is used it will have a small amount of play in the joint when shot hard. Anyone know if this is true?
This is why there has been alot done to the design and thread form types and the percentage amount of thread engagement for the cue joint.
I like the fine pitched threads, as they mechanicaly hold the two pieces together tighter for the same torque amount.
As far as movement in the joint, there is no movement untill the load exceedes the friction or the elastic point of what ever is holding it together.
So if the jointed faces are held together with a force of 200 N, if you try pulling it apart with 100 N, nothing will happen.If you apply a force of 250N,the joint will pull apart by the distance that 50N stretches the materials involved.

Most likely, your friend has a cue that they are used to ,and that is his reason for not wanting to change.


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10-10-2010, 06:15 PM

One piece cues are probably more popular here in the uk now than 3/4 ones and the 50-50 cues are not wanted by anyone nowadays other than for a tomatoe plant stick in the greenhouse or as i use mine for: shutting the curtains.

Whatever the cueist game is there is no advantage of one over another it's just a preference thing a good cues a good cue and a bad uns firewood.
Thing is as demand for a 50-50 cue is next to nill those that do still make them rarely use quality materials so getting a decent one means a custom job.

Most one piece users will argue they get better feedback having the one piece of wood from tip to butt and splices added to it rather than the modern 3/4 cue which is often made as a two piece but if true theres few of them i reckon that could tell blindfold two cues of identical spec apart.
  
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10-10-2010, 07:20 PM

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Originally Posted by rhncue View Post
Good! If I thought my cues played like a house cue I would quit building cues.

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