Help on Live threading 5/8-11 on my Clausing lathe

FLYINGSNAIL

Koo Cues
Silver Member
I know this sounds like a dumm question. I am trying to do live threading 5/8-11 with my Clausing lathe for SS joint, model no.5913. I have watch You Tube. Try to set it up like they show on You Tube. Still having problem not threading on that piece of dowel. I use Bosch colt router tool post mount. Setting on my lathe : veriable speed control at lowest speeds. Back gear pin pull/release. Backgear control knob set at ON. Lead screw direction lever (feed control) set at lower whole. Sliding gear shifter handle put in. Selector know (gear shifter) set "C". Thread and feed selector handle (gear shifter lever) set at 4. Half nut was selected also. I have tried manually turning by chuck or power feed and is not threading on the wood dowel. Alos make no different with the sliding gear shifter handle in or out. The only thing I did not do is taking off those over and check on those lever or knob see what happen when engaging those component or see if anything engage at all.
Thanks ahead,
Kenny
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When the chuck is rotating,the leadscrew should also be turning.
There is a chart selection with thread pitch and what need to be where for that to happen.
Check that the gear train is on the correct settings with apropriate gearing. High /low etc.
A picture of the selector will help.
Some have a knob in the back hand wheel that needs to be engaged as well.
You can easily check pitch by engaging the levers and manually rotating the chuck with 1/2 nut engaged. Using a dti you can see the pitch after rotating the chuck 1 complete turn.
 
threading

Hi

One thing to check on some Clausing lathes (the one I have) is that the power feed and the half nut travel in opisite directions. I think if you want to thread away from the headstock that you need the feed controle lever in the up position.

I would test with the carrage in the middle of the lathe away from everything to see if the half nut is engageing and what direction it is traviling.

Good luck

Alan
 
update pics

Thank you for answering my quesrtions. This morning I went out to the shop and I disengage backgear control knob at OUT position. Lead screw direction lever (feed control) select at TOP WHOLE. Sliding gear shfter handle PUT IN. Select half nut at UP/ lock to lead screw.

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I see you have a left hand thread.
Since you are live tooling, You can just run it all in reverse and then produce a RH thread.
If it goes forward and makes a RH thread, when it is reversed is still a rh thread.
Unless you wanted a LH thread ofcourse.
Neil
 
I see you have a left hand thread.
Since you are live tooling, You can just run it all in reverse and then produce a RH thread.
If it goes forward and makes a RH thread, when it is reversed is still a rh thread.
Unless you wanted a LH thread ofcourse.
Neil

You are right Neil thank you. My first live threading. I just want to making sure this lathe is set up right and threading:D. I was cutting left hand threads:o. I just when to recorrected, switch back to everse now is threading right . Thanks
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You are right Neil thank you. My first live threading. I just want to making sure this lathe is set up right and threading:D. I was cutting left hand threads:o. I just when to recorrected, switch back to everse now is threading right . Thanks
THREADINGPART4001.jpg

IF the leadscrew and the chuck are spinning towards you, you're on your way.
Try to expose as little wood as SAFELY possible.
I always leave a pilot the size of the minor at the tip about 1/8 long so I can hit that as the guide for the threader .
Coat the wood with some thin CA .
Have fun and about that leather..
 
> Good technique there. I haven't done it myself but only thing stopping me is the machine itself.

I'd like to add for anyone else that hasn't as well that is most cases,the best results will likely result as an effort of using the common old school 60 degree v-notch threading gage,for perfecting the actual cutter alignment. Almost any good machinist has one or more,they are common and fairly cheap as well. Tommy D.
 
If you incline the cutter so it matches the helic angle of the thread, you will get a better finish,as the cutter is not cutting against the groove.The miss alignment is best seen in the 1st picture of post#5.
When thread milling and a specific thread form and size is required,matching the helic angle is important. If you don't, the sides of the generated threadform will be curved.
 
> Good technique there. I haven't done it myself but only thing stopping me is the machine itself.

I'd like to add for anyone else that hasn't as well that is most cases,the best results will likely result as an effort of using the common old school 60 degree v-notch threading gage,for perfecting the actual cutter alignment. Almost any good machinist has one or more,they are common and fairly cheap as well. Tommy D.

That would be my next step to try it also :thumbup:.
 
Helix angle???

If you incline the cutter so it matches the helic angle of the thread, you will get a better finish,as the cutter is not cutting against the groove.The miss alignment is best seen in the 1st picture of post#5.
When thread milling and a specific thread form and size is required,matching the helic angle is important. If you don't, the sides of the generated threadform will be curved.

Neil,

Is this what you are talking about?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helix_angle
 
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