Help with Custom Pool Room - Recommendations needed?

Jive

Jive

Professional Racker
Silver Member
I finally managed to clear out a room next to my office and am coverting it into a Pool Room. However i still need the space every once in a while for a general meeting room. So i'm gonna build a nice collapsable/foldable wood top over the table.

In doing so i'm seeking advise from this mighty and knowledgable community on 2 things.

1) Lighting

Referring to the pictures below, you can see that it looks like a semi formal space. I'm going to throw in a nice Sofa and some nice lights but that's about it.

My challenge is i can't add any additional lighting to the ceiling. As you can see it's a drop celling and i can't do any major stuff here. Pool Bar Lights are obviously out of the question. All i can play with are the few light holes already in place. I know the positioning of the existing lights are not ideal for my table since they are not exactly above the table, infact by my estimation the lights fall on almost the corners of where the table might be.

Based on what is already there anybody here can recommend how i can set up the lighting to make it more conducive for night play? I was contemplating simply changing the existing bulbs to stronger white lights but am not sure it'll work well enough.

20111223_090258.jpg

20111223_090314.jpg

20111223_090330.jpg

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2) Table Top
I am going to build a table top to go over the pool table and to use it as a meeting table when needed. I'll most likely use MDF with nice veneer or Plywood if i want to keep the edge of the table looking classy. I'll design something, it's the engineering/concept that i'm looking to fish here.

The easiest way would be to just put 3 panels on the table top and maybe add some rubber stopper at the bottom to act as a guide to "lock" and line the panel in place with placed on the pool table. But this would require 2 person to operate and storage of these boards with be a hassle and not to mention eyesore.

Anybody here have any better ideas?

---

Some pictures to share of how i intend to skive at work in near future! Pool room/meeting room is connected to my office via a secret sliding door. Still quite a mess though, gonna clean up a little throw and throw in some nice posters or paintings for the pool room.

20111223_090642.jpg

20111223_090527.jpg

20111223_090555.jpg

20111223_090711.jpg

20111223_090726.jpg


Huge thank you to John Barton for hooking me up with the table! Will update pics and it's all done.
 
For the lighting I would use the existing can mounting points and have some brackets fabricated to allow you to hang track lighting... if you had a the track welded into a rectangle and suspended from the can mounts if could be very aesthetically pleasing and super functional.......
 
The Renfro said:
For the lighting I would use the existing can mounting points and have some brackets fabricated to allow you to hang track lighting... if you had a the track welded into a rectangle and suspended from the can mounts if could be very aesthetically pleasing and super functional.......
Click to expand...

Sounds like a pretty good idea....only concern is whether the current mounting points can hold the weight since there have never been designed to hold anything more than the current can brackets. Thanks anyway, will look into it. :thumbup:
 
The Renfro said:
For the lighting I would use the existing can mounting points and have some brackets fabricated to allow you to hang track lighting... if you had a the track welded into a rectangle and suspended from the can mounts if could be very aesthetically pleasing and super functional.......
Click to expand...

Thats what I would do!
 
most people in asia use gypsum board for ceiling.
if your ceiling is gypsum board, 100%you can mount pool bar light.
 
chrislie said:
most people in asia use gypsum board for ceiling.
if your ceiling is gypsum board, 100%you can mount pool bar light.
Click to expand...

I can't install pool bar lights mainly because i still need the room to look semi formal for a cosy meeting area. Can't have it like a pool bar, my table actually came with a nice bar light but i have to give it back 'cos i can't use it.

-----

Anyone knows if there's other kinds of bracket light i can opt to fix on that will work well? I'm looking for something that involves as little work as possible. If changing to a certain kind of bulb helps i'll be the happiest.
 
I would install eyeball rotating lights in place of the recessed lights...in the same cavities...and point them all at the pool table...and then install a couple wall sconces.

The eyeball lights I'm talking about are the lights you would normally see in the ceiling just in front of a fireplace pointing at the mantle, etc. they fit right into the recessed light holes...

Install a dimmer on the switch, turn it down a little during business meetings and they'll never realize hey are concentrated in one spot.
 
Wooden Table top

My buddy just finished making a wooden table top for my GC. We used three cabinet grade sheets of playwood (stained them of course) and it looks great. We ended up ripping/cutting the plywood sheets in half to make six leafs that would connect via dowels. The table leafs stay firmly connected through the dowels and makes for a nearly solid one piece table.

There are four dowels per leaf to keep it level across the table, any less and it begins to bow a bit. You'll also want to measure how much of the cover you want to hang over the table. You'll want the "end panels" (those panels that cover the corner pockets to be large enough to handle the overhang (however long you decide that to be) without unduly flexing at the leaf joint. So my table top initially was designed to have a 12inch overhang, but it caused the leaf joint to flex too much. We ended up removing a leaf and having both end panels flush with the table. I would have measured the cut more carefully knowing this because I wanted a bit of an overhang. Now people can't pull their chairs up to the ends of the table. Just a thought.

I'm happy to put you in touch with my buddy. He's really the master wood worker and can explain more to you. He's in the process of wanting clients to design some prototypes, so if you know anyone in the Dallas or Texas area who might want an inexpensive nice table top, let me know. Hope this helps-Ryan
 
Jive said:
I finally managed to clear out a room next to my office and am coverting it into a Pool Room. However i still need the space every once in a while for a general meeting room. So i'm gonna build a nice collapsable/foldable wood top over the table.

In doing so i'm seeking advise from this mighty and knowledgable community on 2 things.

1) Lighting

Referring to the pictures below, you can see that it looks like a semi formal space. I'm going to throw in a nice Sofa and some nice lights but that's about it.

My challenge is i can't add any additional lighting to the ceiling. As you can see it's a drop celling and i can't do any major stuff here. Pool Bar Lights are obviously out of the question. All i can play with are the few light holes already in place. I know the positioning of the existing lights are not ideal for my table since they are not exactly above the table, infact by my estimation the lights fall on almost the corners of where the table might be.

Based on what is already there anybody here can recommend how i can set up the lighting to make it more conducive for night play? I was contemplating simply changing the existing bulbs to stronger white lights but am not sure it'll work well enough.

20111223_090258.jpg

20111223_090314.jpg

20111223_090330.jpg

20111223_090359.jpg

20111223_090424.jpg



2) Table Top
I am going to build a table top to go over the pool table and to use it as a meeting table when needed. I'll most likely use MDF with nice veneer or Plywood if i want to keep the edge of the table looking classy. I'll design something, it's the engineering/concept that i'm looking to fish here.

The easiest way would be to just put 3 panels on the table top and maybe add some rubber stopper at the bottom to act as a guide to "lock" and line the panel in place with placed on the pool table. But this would require 2 person to operate and storage of these boards with be a hassle and not to mention eyesore.

Anybody here have any better ideas?

---

Some pictures to share of how i intend to skive at work in near future! Pool room/meeting room is connected to my office via a secret sliding door. Still quite a mess though, gonna clean up a little throw and throw in some nice posters or paintings for the pool room.

20111223_090642.jpg

20111223_090527.jpg

20111223_090555.jpg

20111223_090711.jpg

20111223_090726.jpg


Huge thank you to John Barton for hooking me up with the table! Will update pics and it's all done.
Click to expand...
I don't know if you mentioned the size of the room. If you have a generous amount of room a mistake a lot of people make is centering the table. That kills the whole room, If you put the table off center or towards a corner it consolidates the rest of the space making it far more useful and a lot less boring. Just something to think about.
 
macguy said:
I don't know if you mentioned the size of the room. If you have a generous amount of room a mistake a lot of people make is centering the table. That kills the whole room, If you put the table off center or towards a corner it consolidates the rest of the space making it far more useful and a lot less boring. Just something to think about.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately i don't have that big of a space, i'd say the room is ample and just nice for a nice playing environment without being too cramp or restrictive to cueing.

The table pretty much needs to be in the middle of the room width wise but length wise i can park it nearer to the rear wall and have a good space for a comfortable sofa nearer to the door.

Still fishing for ideas on the lights goes. All ideas appreciated.
 
RAMIII said:
My buddy just finished making a wooden table top for my GC. We used three cabinet grade sheets of playwood (stained them of course) and it looks great. We ended up ripping/cutting the plywood sheets in half to make six leafs that would connect via dowels. The table leafs stay firmly connected through the dowels and makes for a nearly solid one piece table.

There are four dowels per leaf to keep it level across the table, any less and it begins to bow a bit. You'll also want to measure how much of the cover you want to hang over the table. You'll want the "end panels" (those panels that cover the corner pockets to be large enough to handle the overhang (however long you decide that to be) without unduly flexing at the leaf joint. So my table top initially was designed to have a 12inch overhang, but it caused the leaf joint to flex too much. We ended up removing a leaf and having both end panels flush with the table. I would have measured the cut more carefully knowing this because I wanted a bit of an overhang. Now people can't pull their chairs up to the ends of the table. Just a thought.

I'm happy to put you in touch with my buddy. He's really the master wood worker and can explain more to you. He's in the process of wanting clients to design some prototypes, so if you know anyone in the Dallas or Texas area who might want an inexpensive nice table top, let me know. Hope this helps-Ryan
Click to expand...

Hi Ryan,

Sorry for the delayed reply. I actually thought I replied you but I realised I must have dozed of doing it the last time.. :D

First problem, I'm in China right now so getting your buddy to help might be expensive :)

I actually thought about using "butterfly" hinges as that would allow the table to fold easily maybe 2-3 panels folded together but I decided against it as that would make each component too heavy. I'm not so keen on using wooden dowels as that would make the entire table top too permanent for me. The assembly and disassembly is a little too troublesome for me too. I'm really for solutions that allow the top to fold away easily and preferably can be operated by a single guy.

I'm in a factory with wood and metal work capabilities so please throw any ideas you may have no matter how experimental they may be.

Thanks again.
 
A long as youre gonna be building a table cover anyway, build a custom light to match it. Hoist it up on a pulley or 2, almost flush to the ceiling when not in use.
 
Last edited:
Bambu said:
A long as youre gonna be building a table cover anyway, build a custom light to match it. Hoist it up on a pulley or 2, almost flush to the ceiling when not in use.
Click to expand...

Heh that's a big project, too big for me. As cool as your solution sounds there's two obstacles for me.
First, my ceiling is already a drop ceiling so it can't hold that kind of weight I'd need real ceiling for that kind of support.
Second, as a meeting table the pulley cables would be an eyesore. Could retract it and all but man that's a huge operation to do this set up.
 
Jive said:
Heh that's a big project, too big for me. As cool as your solution sounds there's two obstacles for me.
First, my ceiling is already a drop ceiling so it can't hold that kind of weight I'd need real ceiling for that kind of support.
Second, as a meeting table the pulley cables would be an eyesore. Could retract it and all but man that's a huge operation to do this set up.
Click to expand...

Beyond the drop ceiling is the regular ceiling with beams. Pop out a panel and find the beam, then cut a hole in the panel. Cover the hole with a plastic collar of some kind. Even a piece of plumbing pvc can work. Then you can hang a light on a motorized or pull chain system. Not much you can do without getting to the beams. I'd buy a few floor lamps until I could get it done right.
 
Cover

The wooden dowels actually enable dis-assembly. I pull mine apart and assemble it on my own. The wooden leafs are light enough for me to lay them out to assemble, and then take apart as needed. And yes, I understand that you're in china, but recommended my friend in case you wanted some wood working expertise.

I'm going to post pictures of the table in the wanted section since my buddy is looking to build some prototypes. You may get a better idea of how the pieces can be fit together. Try to allow for some overhang so folks don't bang their knees against the table skirts.
 
Bambu said:
Beyond the drop ceiling is the regular ceiling with beams. Pop out a panel and find the beam, then cut a hole in the panel. Cover the hole with a plastic collar of some kind. Even a piece of plumbing pvc can work. Then you can hang a light on a motorized or pull chain system. Not much you can do without getting to the beams. I'd buy a few floor lamps until I could get it done right.
Click to expand...

I get your drift but that's going to be quite a big job and I'm really hoping to keep it as easy as possible...also my drop ceiling isn't in small panels, its a fully sealed drop.
I can definitely drill 4 holes easily in the ceiling then then cut out a huge rectangular shape similar to a box lamp and insert plugs direct to the ceiling to support a bigger box lamp. I can even make a box lamp with nice veneer and stain easy in the factory and use LEDs as light source which is cheap and widely available.
I had that in mind but dismissed it Cos I thought it would be too troublesome and I was wondering if anything can be done to the existing light points to make it conducive enough for night play.
 
RAMIII said:
The wooden dowels actually enable dis-assembly. I pull mine apart and assemble it on my own. The wooden leafs are light enough for me to lay them out to assemble, and then take apart as needed. And yes, I understand that you're in china, but recommended my friend in case you wanted some wood working expertise.

I'm going to post pictures of the table in the wanted section since my buddy is looking to build some prototypes. You may get a better idea of how the pieces can be fit together. Try to allow for some overhang so folks don't bang their knees against the table skirts.
Click to expand...

I'd love to see some pictures buddy. And thanks for the reminder on the overhang, I had planned that in.
My table has arrived but I haven't assembled it yet, rather the mechanic I got hasn't come in yet. This gives me some time to add in-wall sockets on all four sides of the table's bottom panel so that I can pull a power cable directly underneath the table for those sockets. Am thinking a projector too, so perhaps even VGA and HDMI sockets.
 
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