Contact point on the OB, shift and pivot aiming.

L

LAMas

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This aiming method assumes one knows where the contact point on the equator of the OB that sends the OB to the pocket/target.

Starting with the center of the CB aimed at the contact point on the OB (CTCP) alignment.

Then lateral/parallel shift the shaft from the CB center to the OB center without regard to the CB (pretend that it isn’t there).

Pivot the tip of the cue from the bridge (hand) back to the center of the CB and shoot.

Again:
1 With the bridge hand about 12” - 13” behind the CB, Look for the contact/impact point on the OB equator that sends the OB to the target/pocket. – the point where the line from the center of the pocket /target exits the OB (near you).

2 Aim the cue/shaft from the center of the CB on a line to that point.

3 Ignoring the CB for now, lateral/parallel shift the cue until it is now pointing at the center of the OB

4 Pivot from that new cue and bridge location back to the center of the CB – shoot.

The shift from the contact point (CT) to the center of the OB will change as the distance between the CB and OB changes – larger shift when the CB is close to the OB and a smaller shift when the CB and OB are farther apart.

This is because perspective makes the OB ball appear to be a smaller diameter as it is moved father (down table) away from CB and the eye. This will change the included angle of the pivot – a large included angle when the OB is close and appears to be just a bit smaller circle than the CB and a smaller included angle when the OB is farther away and appears to be an even smaller circle.

What this does is to double the distance and included angle from the contact point (CP) to the center of the OB to send the CB to the location of the Ghost Ball (GB). The shift moves the bridge hand/cue to the side of the center of the CB. The pivot back to the center of the CB creates a aimilar included angle to the outside of the CP on the OB by that same distance, thus doubling the distance of the final aim. If you know double distance aiming, you can check the new final aim line….to the GB.

This changing of the shift from a large shift when the CB and OB are close together and smaller shift when the CB and OB are farther apart, prevents the CB from missing the cut angle to the outside of the GB resulting in a thinner cut and eventually missing contact with the OB to the outside.
Aiming contact point-Model.jpg
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LAMas said:
Thanks for the warning, but I think not - 88 views and one post - yours.:smile:

Be well.
Click to expand...

Actually, LAMas, the problem may be the time of day you posted this. Like many others, I'm at work, and can only spend my 5 minute breaks hitting up AZB, reading quickly, perhaps posting something, and then disconnect -- back to work. In the case of your thread, it ain't a "quickie read and respond."

Plus, don't forget the Predator 14.1 World Championship is going on for those that aren't in the "work drag" mode.

Give it time -- wait until the evening. I think you'll see many more responses to what looks like a great system you have there.

-Sean
 
ok, finally!

I'm going to try this next session...I'm not a big fan of CTE-related systems, but this totally makes sense to me, I can see how this gets the cue ball to the same spot I'm hitting with back of ball aiming method that I use. The key difference with other pivot systems is using the OB contact point as a reference, the rest of your system gets you lined up to deliver the cue ball there. It should be AT LEAST as accurate/reliable as back of the ball aiming. The only variable would be the pivot point, but I don't anticipate it being that big a deal.

Very interesting........
 
At the very least this aiming method requires a target pocket. Unlike most of the other systems. Maybe it works..maybe not. At least it has all the parts of aiming. CB, OB and target pocket.
 
I think I might do that without thinking about it or using the shift? I'm not sure? :o I'm confused.:confused:
 
Shaky1,
It seems like you have a table at hand, for you PMd that you missed by a foot.

In order to do that, you are shifting too much to the side from the contact point (CP) to the center (C) of the OB.

Thus, you are pivoting too much, creating an angle to the ghost ball (GB) that is too large.

Let's start with the OB close to the CB and aim the tip of your cue at the edge of the OB for a very thin cut (85+ degrees [D]). Now shift the whole cue parallel (moving the tip and the butt the same amount) until the tip is now aimed at the center of the OB. Plant your bridge hand there and pivot the cue by moving the butt to the correct side for the shot until the tip is now aimed at the Center of the OB - shoot.

Now place the OB down table and it will appear to be smaller and the shift from the edge of the OB to it's center will be a smaller shift (distance). This creates a smaller angle and will prevent the CB from missing the OB edge.

If you still are missing the OB, not by a foot I hope, then move your bridge had farther back from the CB which will also reduce the pivot angle and should get you closer to hitting the edge of the OB.

It might help if you don't use the CB - take it off of the table and repeat the drill - it might be adversely influencing your perception of the OB.

Another tip is to place another ball (GB) next to and touching the CP on the OB. Now go through the drill until your pivot angle aims the tip of the cue at the center of that ball (GB). You may need to move your bridge back, in your case, or forward if you are hitting the OB too thick.

Be well.:smile:
 
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All,
The thing that I was looking for was an aiming method that had the initial aiming point be a point on the OB like the CP and not off of the edge of the OB, like on the felt or the rail behind or something on the wall in back of the shot, for cuts greater than 30 D like with GB aiming.

This is enough to digest for now.

Be well.:smile:
 
LAMas said:
Shaky1,
It seems like you have a table at hand, for you PMd that you missed by a foot.

In order to do that, you are shifting too much to the side from the contact point (CP) to the center (C) of the OB.

Thus, you are pivoting too much, creating an angle to the ghost ball (GB) that is too large.

Let's start with the OB close to the CB and aim the tip of your cue at the edge of the OB for a very thin cut (85+ degrees [D]). Now shift the whole cue parallel (moving the tip and the butt the same amount) until the tip is now aimed at the center of the OB. Plant your bridge hand there and pivot the cue by moving the butt to the correct side for the shot until the tip is now aimed at the Center of the OB - shoot.

Now place the OB down table and it will appear to be smaller and the shift from the edge of the OB to it's center will be a smaller shift (distance). This creates a smaller angle and will prevent the CB from missing the OB edge.

If you still are missing the OB, not by a foot I hope, then move your bridge had farther back from the CB which will also reduce the pivot angle and should get you closer to hitting the edge of the OB.

It might help if you don't use the CB - take it off of the table and repeat the drill - it might be adversely influencing your perception of the OB.

Another tip is to place another ball (GB) next to and touching the CP on the OB. Now go through the drill until your pivot angle aims the tip of the cue at the center of that ball (GB). You may need to move your bridge back, in your case, or forward if you are hitting the OB too thick.

Be well.:smile:
Click to expand...

I'll try it out later when I'm more awake. :wink: Thanks
 
Okay, my son and I worked on this for 3 1/2 hours tonight...absolutely works! Great tip! 90% of my shots I just aim (back of ball) like always, but on those cut shots that seem to give me a headache, this really cinches the shot. It works for me at almost every distance and cut angle. Not magic by any means (you have to adjust for throw like anything else), but it works better than what I'm doing now. The key is to keep a long bridge when doing the pivot/adjustment.:smile:
 
It works good enough to put you right on the contact point...if you judge that, speed and english well, it works just fine.
 
West Point 1987 said:
It works good enough to put you right on the contact point...if you judge that, speed and english well, it works just fine.
Click to expand...

I'm happy for you and your son.

Like everything else in aiming, each step must be be executed with as much precision as is possible...take time and concentrate...like many good players do.:smile:
 
Bridge length would seem to be critical in this method. The shorter the bridge length, the more degrees the cue tip is pivoting through to get to center CB. LAMas recommends a 12" - 13" bridge length. I wonder if the bridge length should vary with the distance between CB and OB (as with Stan's CTE).
 
AtLarge said:
Bridge length would seem to be critical in this method. The shorter the bridge length, the more degrees the cue tip is pivoting through to get to center CB. LAMas recommends a 12" - 13" bridge length. I wonder if the bridge length should vary with the distance between CB and OB (as with Stan's CTE).
Click to expand...

You are correct.
I diagramed this in the second pic in post #1, but it is important to get the basics of this system down first and then refine the distance as necessary for a particular shooter.

Notice that at 44 degrees, one should shift a tiny bit past the center of the OB - this is because of the curvature of the OB that is not linear. If the shooter is not gtting the desired cut angle, then one can increase the shift a tiny bit past the center of the OB or as you noted, change the bridge distance...as one perfects his results.

It is hard to effect a perfect parallel shift as well as seeing the contact point (back of the ball) and the center of the CB. It is important, as in most pivot systems, to freeze the bridge during the pivot so that it doesn't change if one has a loose bridge.

It might be impossible to effect a 12" to 13' bridge behind the CB if the CB is froze to the rail and you must use your finger tips to touch the outside of the table behind the CB to effect a bridge. In this case with practice, one can compensate by shifting a tiny bit short of the center of the OB.

For a pivot system, it is parsimoneous and affords a visible contact point (back of the ball) on the OB to start with especially for thin cuts.

Those that get positive aiming results early will enhance their confidence, understanding and that will expedite their mastery of this most difficult game.

Be well.
 
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LAMas said:
Bump duplicate
Click to expand...
While standing and contemplating the shot, use your cue at arms length to line up the center of the CB at the contact point on the OB; then move the cue until it is now pointing at the center of the OB; get down on the shot and you will be very close to the pre-pivot bridge position.:smile:
 
Aiming systems - the end justifies the means

LAMas said:
This aiming method assumes one knows where the contact point on the equator of the OB that sends the OB to the pocket/target.

Starting with the center of the CB aimed at the contact point on the OB (CTCP) alignment.

Then lateral/parallel shift the shaft from the CB center to the OB center without regard to the CB (pretend that it isn’t there).

Pivot the tip of the cue from the bridge (hand) back to the center of the CB and shoot.

Again:
1 With the bridge hand about 12” - 13” behind the CB, Look for the contact/impact point on the OB equator that sends the OB to the target/pocket. – the point where the line from the center of the pocket /target exits the OB (near you).

2 Aim the cue/shaft from the center of the CB on a line to that point.

3 Ignoring the CB for now, lateral/parallel shift the cue until it is now pointing at the center of the OB

4 Pivot from that new cue and bridge location back to the center of the CB – shoot.

The shift from the contact point (CT) to the center of the OB will change as the distance between the CB and OB changes – larger shift when the CB is close to the OB and a smaller shift when the CB and OB are farther apart.

This is because perspective makes the OB ball appear to be a smaller diameter as it is moved father (down table) away from CB and the eye. This will change the included angle of the pivot – a large included angle when the OB is close and appears to be just a bit smaller circle than the CB and a smaller included angle when the OB is farther away and appears to be an even smaller circle.

What this does is to double the distance and included angle from the contact point (CP) to the center of the OB to send the CB to the location of the Ghost Ball (GB). The shift moves the bridge hand/cue to the side of the center of the CB. The pivot back to the center of the CB creates a aimilar included angle to the outside of the CP on the OB by that same distance, thus doubling the distance of the final aim. If you know double distance aiming, you can check the new final aim line….to the GB.

This changing of the shift from a large shift when the CB and OB are close together and smaller shift when the CB and OB are farther apart, prevents the CB from missing the cut angle to the outside of the GB resulting in a thinner cut and eventually missing contact with the OB to the outside.
View attachment 235235
View attachment 235187
Click to expand...

I like your system and it compliments mine VERY WELL....I would suggest promoting your stuff on the new thread....it'll be fun and I won't be any conflict with me....I'm not here to sell "Aiming Systems",,,my points are all about throwing the ball to create a bigger ZONE....how someone aims, in my opinion is a personal choice...Play Well, CJ
 
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