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Can someone expalin the Term "Pro Taper"
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Can someone expalin the Term "Pro Taper" - 11-29-2012, 01:12 PM

I know Shafts are offered with different lengths of Pro Tapers, 10", 12" so on. Does the term Pro Taper, apply to all playing cues which means the distance of the dia from the tip to the point where the taper begins? Or is it a specific type of taper? ? I know break cues have a consistent taper, or lack of, I should say. Its more of a consistent decrease of dia. Is there a different term for a shaft that has a different taper? I know this topic may sound funny but I got to thinking about it too much and I kind of over thought it to where now I don’t know what to think.

P.S I did a search on this topic before posting and found nothing.
  
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"pro" taper
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"pro" taper - 11-29-2012, 01:29 PM

Pool

A typical two-piece cue for pocket billiards is usually made mostly of hard rock maple, with a fiberglass or phenolic resin ferrule, usually 0.75 to 1 inch (19 to 25 mm) long, and steel joint collars and pin. Pool cues average around 58 inches (150 cm) long, are commonly available in 17–21 ounces (0.48–0.60 kg) weights, with 19 ounces (0.54 kg) being the most common, and usually have a tip diameter in the range of 12.75 – 13.25 mm.[6] A conical taper, with the shaft gradually shrinking in diameter from joint to ferrule, is favored by some, but the "pro" taper is increasingly popular, straight for most of the length of the shaft from ferrule back, flaring to joint diameter only in the last 1⁄4 to 1⁄3 of the shaft. While there are many custom cuemakers, a very large number of quality pool cues are manufactured in bulk. In recent years, more technological materials such as fiberglass, carbon fiber, aluminum, etc., have been increasingly used for shafts and butts, and there has been a trend toward experimentation with rubber, memory foam and other soft wraps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsoriano View Post
I know Shafts are offered with different lengths of Pro Tapers, 10", 12" so on. Does the term Pro Taper, apply to all playing cues which means the distance of the dia from the tip to the point where the taper begins? Or is it a specific type of taper? ? I know break cues have a consistent taper, or lack of, I should say. Its more of a consistent decrease of dia. Is there a different term for a shaft that has a different taper? I know this topic may sound funny but I got to thinking about it too much and I kind of over thought it to where now I don’t know what to think.

P.S I did a search on this topic before posting and found nothing.
  
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11-29-2012, 01:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsoriano View Post
I know Shafts are offered with different lengths of Pro Tapers, 10", 12" so on. Does the term Pro Taper, apply to all playing cues which means the distance of the dia from the tip to the point where the taper begins? Or is it a specific type of taper? ? I know break cues have a consistent taper, or lack of, I should say. Its more of a consistent decrease of dia. Is there a different term for a shaft that has a different taper? I know this topic may sound funny but I got to thinking about it too much and I kind of over thought it to where now I don’t know what to think.

P.S I did a search on this topic before posting and found nothing.
Let me preface this by saying, these days, it's more of a selling and marketing term than a universally accepted definition.

Brunswick started using the term "professional taper" in the 1930's, and what it described was a double taper. Instead of having a single taper from the butt to the tip, the shaft was tapered at a lesser degree from about 12" from the tip.

Somehow the term came to mean no taper at all for the length of the taper, whatever that may be. Most cues do not truly have a "professional taper".

Today's shafts tend to have a double taper, sometimes called a pro taper or modified pro taper. The first 12" - 16" from the tip runs one taper, for example increases by 1mm or 2mm, then another taper to the butt from there. The taper greatly affects the playing characteristics of the cue.


Here's a pretty good rundown on tapers:

http://www.ravencues.com/shafts.html


Visit my historic cues site:
www.palmercollector.com


Last edited by TATE; 11-29-2012 at 01:44 PM.
  
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Taper - 11-29-2012, 04:35 PM

Back when I started playing (1962), all the books and was advocated to have your bridge hand 6-8" behind the tip. Gradually, over the years, players were using a longer bridge and wanted a shaft that was consistent, or the same diameter, over the length of their stroke. They did not want to feel the cue diameter get bigger when they stroked the ball, especially if they used the closed bridge.

The Pro Taper was developed to meet this demand from the Pool world.
A Pro Taper normally runs to 10-13". A Super Pro Taper normally runs 13" to 15".


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11-29-2012, 04:39 PM

i have not read all the replies.......
but ask that question in the ask the cuemaker forum
and find out what the cue makers think
jmho
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11-29-2012, 04:46 PM

And here all along, I thought it was a guy that was a very good dry waller.


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11-29-2012, 05:30 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by the kidd View Post
Pool

A typical two-piece cue for pocket billiards is usually made mostly of hard rock maple, with a fiberglass or phenolic resin ferrule, usually 0.75 to 1 inch (19 to 25 mm) long, and steel joint collars and pin. Pool cues average around 58 inches (150 cm) long, are commonly available in 17–21 ounces (0.48–0.60 kg) weights, with 19 ounces (0.54 kg) being the most common, and usually have a tip diameter in the range of 12.75 – 13.25 mm.[6] A conical taper, with the shaft gradually shrinking in diameter from joint to ferrule, is favored by some, but the "pro" taper is increasingly popular, straight for most of the length of the shaft from ferrule back, flaring to joint diameter only in the last 1⁄4 to 1⁄3 of the shaft. While there are many custom cuemakers, a very large number of quality pool cues are manufactured in bulk. In recent years, more technological materials such as fiberglass, carbon fiber, aluminum, etc., have been increasingly used for shafts and butts, and there has been a trend toward experimentation with rubber, memory foam and other soft wraps.
The part in blue above is backwards. It should read: "straight for the first 1/4-1/2 of the shaft from ferrule back, flaring to joint diameter in the last 1/2-3/4 of the shaft".

pj <- or thereabouts
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11-29-2012, 07:09 PM

Pro taper? guy on the left



  
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11-30-2012, 09:22 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Hog ridr View Post
And here all along, I thought it was a guy that was a very good dry waller.
how silly.

everyone really knows what a pro tapir looks like:

  
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11-30-2012, 11:42 AM

A pro taper is whatever the cue makes decides his will be. Most are a little different and can be just about anything anymore as more and more cue makers are appearing everywhere with there ideas of cues.
  
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11-30-2012, 02:57 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by the kidd View Post
Pool

A typical two-piece cue for pocket billiards is usually made mostly of hard rock maple, with a fiberglass or phenolic resin ferrule, usually 0.75 to 1 inch (19 to 25 mm) long, and steel joint collars and pin. Pool cues average around 58 inches (150 cm) long, are commonly available in 17–21 ounces (0.48–0.60 kg) weights, with 19 ounces (0.54 kg) being the most common, and usually have a tip diameter in the range of 12.75 – 13.25 mm.[6] [COLOR="rgb(139, 0, 0)"]A conical taper,[/COLOR] with the shaft gradually shrinking in diameter from joint to ferrule, is favored by some, but the "pro" taper is increasingly popular, straight for most of the length of the shaft from ferrule back, flaring to joint diameter only in the last 1⁄4 to 1⁄3 of the shaft. While there are many custom cuemakers, a very large number of quality pool cues are manufactured in bulk. In recent years, more technological materials such as fiberglass, carbon fiber, aluminum, etc., have been increasingly used for shafts and butts, and there has been a trend toward experimentation with rubber, memory foam and other soft wraps.
I find it very helpful to use conical taper for draw shots, it avoids miss cue better since shaft rises as you cue forward, pro taper remains at same of which if you are not careful could offer miscue situation. The opposite is true for high top english, near rail shots with conical taper could offer miscue situations (miss the whole CB at times) also.
  
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11-30-2012, 03:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by naji View Post
I find it very helpful to use conical taper for draw shots, it avoids miss cue better since shaft rises as you cue forward, pro taper remains at same of which if you are not careful could offer miscue situation. The opposite is true for high top english, near rail shots with conical taper could offer miscue situations (miss the whole CB at times) also.
Mr. Naji,

That is interesting. I have never thought of that before. In thinking back to my days of playing with my conical cue, I would say that I did miscue a bit when shooting force follow shots.

Thanks for that insight,
  
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11-30-2012, 05:57 PM

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Originally Posted by ENGLISH! View Post
Mr. Naji,

That is interesting. I have never thought of that before. In thinking back to my days of playing with my conical cue, I would say that I did miscue a bit when shooting force follow shots.

Thanks for that insight,
I am glad i added a check list item to your arsenal. So many check list items we need a computer before we shoot a shot!!!!
  
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11-30-2012, 06:31 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by naji View Post
I am glad i added a check list item to your arsenal. So many check list items we need a computer before we shoot a shot!!!!
Mr. Naji,

Believe it not, I do not have a check list or even a consistant pre shot routine. I just file all the info in my version of the amazing mind that I believe all human beings have.

That being said, I have no doubt that the next time I pull out my conical cue I will remember what you said & when I go to shoot a high force follow shot I will remember it again.

It's filed away & ready for recall.

Thanks again,
  
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1mm...
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1mm... - 11-30-2012, 09:04 PM

A "Pro Taper" length is the distance, in inches, from the cue shaft ferulle to the point at which there is a difference of 1mm.

Example: if your ferrule measures 13mm, then 13inches down the shaft it now measures 14mm, then you have a 13inch pro taper.



  
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