Can I replace this ferrule myself?

I'm guessing no, but why can't I just slide a replacement ferrule on top of this shaft? This is a Universal Smart shaft I've just bought, which had a crack in the ferrule. To my astonishment, the ferrule just broke in two pieces and fell off - it is thin walled and doesn't have a solid top part to the ferrule, presumably to lower deflection.

So, can I, as a layperson who's never done this before, simply buy a matching ferrule and slide it over the bit that's left (tenon?).



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That would depend on whether you want it to look like someone who didn't know what
they were doing install it or do you want it to look like it's original and never touched.
I guess that's my long way of saying NO, it's not DIY.
Do you have a lathe? One with a tool-holder? Do you know how to run it?
If you answered NO to any of the above, how are you going to cut it to size once it's epoxied in place?
This is not a high dollar repair unless you're wanting something exotic in the way of ferrule mtrl. & tip.
Mickey Mouse it and you'll be living with Mickey until you decide to get it done right.

Since the ferrule is uncapped, it's likely that it had a pad under the tip at one time.
Without the pad, the tip itself probably split your ferrule when it widened-out.
See, there's a little more to it than just gluing a ferrule on.
So, do you feel lucky? Well, do you?

KJ
 
That would depend on whether you want it to look like someone who didn't know what
they were doing install it or do you want it to look like it's original and never touched.
I guess that's my long way of saying NO, it's not DIY.
Do you have a lathe? One with a tool-holder? Do you know how to run it?
If you answered NO to any of the above, how are you going to cut it to size once it's epoxied in place?
This is not a high dollar repair unless you're wanting something exotic in the way of ferrule mtrl. & tip.
Mickey Mouse it and you'll be living with Mickey until you decide to get it done right.

Since the ferrule is uncapped, it's likely that it had a pad under the tip at one time.
Without the pad, the tip itself probably split your ferrule when it widened-out.
See, there's a little more to it than just gluing a ferrule on.
So, do you feel lucky? Well, do you?

KJ

Not really, but I have little to lose - got it free anyway.

I don't think it had a pad on it - I'm pretty sure it was the original tip and there was nothing underneath. I can't remember where I saw it but the difference between the LS and the RS is the length and thickness of the ferrule, and IIRC, the photo showed it exactly as it looked when I cut the tip off. The tip came off cleanly, which suggests to my untrained eye it was the original, although I have no way of knowing for sure. It certainly looks like a Moori, which is their stock tip.

I'm not aware of any CMs in the UK, and sending it to the US would be prohibitively expensive, so I'm stuck. Next question, is it worth anything to sell it like it is? I'd have to get at least $40 to cover the postage.

Not a shameless sales pitch (honest) but I'm quite impressed with this build quality of this shaft (sans ferrule, obviously). It's quite meaty for a LD shaft, very solid.

I also can't figure out what joint it has - it doesn't fit any of my cues. My Viking QR almost fits, so it may well be 5/16x18, but is there any way of working it out without a butt that fits it? Annoyingly, the adapter has either been glued in, or was fixed in the factory, which is more likely, I think. Either, it doesn't look like it's coming out too easily.
 
I am sure that there are cue repair people in the UK, just a matter of finding them.Certainly there are some of the Best snooker cue makers in the world.
 
Not really, but I have little to lose - got it free anyway.

I don't think it had a pad on it - I'm pretty sure it was the original tip and there was nothing underneath. I can't remember where I saw it but the difference between the LS and the RS is the length and thickness of the ferrule, and IIRC, the photo showed it exactly as it looked when I cut the tip off. The tip came off cleanly, which suggests to my untrained eye it was the original, although I have no way of knowing for sure. It certainly looks like a Moori, which is their stock tip.

I'm not aware of any CMs in the UK, and sending it to the US would be prohibitively expensive, so I'm stuck. Next question, is it worth anything to sell it like it is? I'd have to get at least $40 to cover the postage.

Not a shameless sales pitch (honest) but I'm quite impressed with this build quality of this shaft (sans ferrule, obviously). It's quite meaty for a LD shaft, very solid.

I also can't figure out what joint it has - it doesn't fit any of my cues. My Viking QR almost fits, so it may well be 5/16x18, but is there any way of working it out without a butt that fits it? Annoyingly, the adapter has either been glued in, or was fixed in the factory, which is more likely, I think. Either, it doesn't look like it's coming out too easily.

Ask the owners of the places you play for info on a local cue tech. A new tip and ferrule is not expensive, nor hard for someone with the right tools and knowhow. It's not something you want to tackle by yourself if you have niether. You won't be happy with the results unless it's done right. If you have poolrooms, it's a good bet someone is doing repairs. Like I said, ask the owners or the better players in your rooms. They have a line on somebody. Hope this helps sir.
 
Ask the owners of the places you play for info on a local cue tech. A new tip and ferrule is not expensive, nor hard for someone with the right tools and knowhow. It's not something you want to tackle by yourself if you have niether. You won't be happy with the results unless it's done right. If you have poolrooms, it's a good bet someone is doing repairs. Like I said, ask the owners or the better players in your rooms. They have a line on somebody. Hope this helps sir.

Thanks, but I'd be asking myself there lol.

It's always difficult to get over how small the American pool scene is here. I do know of people who do it, but not locally. It sounds harsh but I don't trust them to do it, either. I have seen too many poor jobs completed by amateur CMs that I might as well do it myself.
 
I'm guessing no, but why can't I just slide a replacement ferrule on top of this shaft? This is a Universal Smart shaft I've just bought, which had a crack in the ferrule. To my astonishment, the ferrule just broke in two pieces and fell off - it is thin walled and doesn't have a solid top part to the ferrule, presumably to lower deflection.

So, can I, as a layperson who's never done this before, simply buy a matching ferrule and slide it over the bit that's left (tenon?).



View attachment 302558

Very unlikely you'll find a ferrule that matches the diameter of the shaft or the length of the tenon.
 
Chances are slim as mentioned of finding the exact same size, but I can think of a few ways to sand one that is close, before gluing it on the tenon. The issue is both the centering of tenon, and the centering of the mandrel that You would have to come up with to hold the ferrule. Any deviations in those centers, can make a world of difference that can be felt where the faces meet at the shoulder. Probably have a serious glue line there as well, being there would be no way to machine the tenon or shoulder of the tenon, not to mention face the end of the ferule and tenon to instal a tip, unless you have a rapid top sander or something like that on hand.. If it were a beater house cue or something cheap, Then It may be worth trying to save a few bucks, since the imperfections may not matter as much, but for a decent shaft or cue, I'm not so sure that I would go that way if I had to. There was a time I was able to an alright job By hand, but for what the hand tools that i had to do It cost, I could have purchased a small metal lathe. I wouldn't go back to doing them by hand now, If I didn't have the proper equipment Like I do now, then I'd take It to someone that did, but then their are decent repairman in surrounding areas here.
 
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