titanium
- Thread starter whammo57
- Start date
Borrow an induction heater.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vL-sArhmkI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vL-sArhmkI
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA...you're a f@#k*n idiot....And I mean that with 'ALL DUE RESPECT' to the local 'genius' All you're going to do is probably kill or wound the only person that has supported your way of doing things...
Dave
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Dave,
Don't knock it if you have not tried it.
You could use a welding machine also to create the heat.
Dave, I used to cut steel underwater with 600 amps DC for 30 years without incident, I think I got this under control.
Rick
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I have an induction heater but it will only work with ferrous metal.
There is no reason a regular torch or soldering iron wouldn't work. Heating a pin is heating a pin. Just take your time and be mindful of what you are doing.
RBC
Deceased
I think there's something missing here.
The thermal conductivity of Titanium is not that different than that of Stainless Steel, so it shouldn't require any different heating techniques than for Stainless. I don't think any battery chargers need to be involved. By the way, Rick, when you hook up that charger as you've described, it's a dead short for the charger. In my experience, dead shorts and battery chargers don't really get a long very well.
Now, if you've already put the torch to it, as you normally would, and it still hasn't come out, could it be that it wasn't glued in with 5 minute epoxy? Perhaps it was glued in with something that has a higher break down temperature. You may need to heat it up higher than you normally would for a pin installed with simple 5 minute epoxy. Most cue makers that I know personally use 5 minute for this task solely for the reason that it makes the pin easier to remove if need be.
Royce
The thermal conductivity of Titanium is not that different than that of Stainless Steel, so it shouldn't require any different heating techniques than for Stainless. I don't think any battery chargers need to be involved. By the way, Rick, when you hook up that charger as you've described, it's a dead short for the charger. In my experience, dead shorts and battery chargers don't really get a long very well.
Now, if you've already put the torch to it, as you normally would, and it still hasn't come out, could it be that it wasn't glued in with 5 minute epoxy? Perhaps it was glued in with something that has a higher break down temperature. You may need to heat it up higher than you normally would for a pin installed with simple 5 minute epoxy. Most cue makers that I know personally use 5 minute for this task solely for the reason that it makes the pin easier to remove if need be.
Royce
If Gorilla glue was used in that screw. good luck.
That is the most ridiculous and unnecessarily elaborate way to heat a pin I've ever read. Plus it is almost guaranteed to damage the joint face, and probably the joint collar as well. If it was coming from a skilled cuemaker with a track record of success I would be VERY impressed - with the cuemaker's sense of humor, that is. Considering the actual source, however, I can only say:
Ah ha ha. Ah ha ha ha ha ha. Ah ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha...
TW
(PS: If you are working on a cue that has high value, and are worried about the effect of too much heat transferring from the pin to the surrounding wood, the safest way to remove a pin is as follows:
Drill out the center of the joint pin with a bit slightly smaller than the minor diameter of the pin itself. Now insert a mild-steel rod that closely fits the drilled hole for about the first one inch and then steps down to a small diameter for the rest of its length, allowing the smaller end of the rod rod to extend out of the pin by a couple of inches.
Grip the exterior of the joint pin with a pair of vice-grips, and rotate the chuck in reverse (by hand) until the vice-grips are braced against the lathe bed.
Using your right hand, heat the steel rod with a torch while constantly applying pressure with your left hand to rotate the chuck in reverse. When (if) the glue bond breaks down the joint pin will begin to unscrew from the cue and you can immediately pull the torch away and draw the steel rod out of the joint screw with a second set of pliers.
The reason this works is because it allows you to get the heat down into the section of the joint screw where the glue bond actually IS, without heating the exposed end of the pin so much that you damage the joint face or its surrounding collar. Regular steel conducts heat better than stainless steel and titanium, so by constantly applying unscrewing pressure against the pin - while heating it only where it matters - you will instantly know when it has gotten hot enough to remove, without applying so much heat as to damage the cue itself.)
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Welding equipment is MADE for welding...battery chargers are NOT. To offer advice like this is reckless endangerment...hopefully no one will even think of trying it. Make a video of you doing it to show how safe it is.......
Modern chargers have short circuit protection, but the split second that it'll possibly send current (up to 30 amps) if that fails to stop it fast enough.....poof
Cocoa,
If you drill the pin out you will exceed the heat required in the blind hole to melt the glue very fast.
I do it both ways drilling with brass and heat with harder materials.
I know I have a lot of critic wise guys but my method starts the heat process at 200 degrees and ramps up incrementally with a cool zone around the cue. A good idea as I see it!
For someone to say my method will ruin the front of the cue is just not thinking through the process clearly. At least I am monitoring the heat and ramping up incrementally. So I break the bond at the lowest possible heat point. No guess work with outer cooling to buffer the residual heat between the steps.
To nay the sayers, don't try my process I am sharing. It don't bother me at all.:boring2:
Good Cue Making to all,:smile:
Rick
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