Solarez UV finish

whammo57

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
I did a cue in Solarez to see how it is to work with. My shop was 64 deg when I finished the cue. the base coat/sealer is Max 1618 epoxy put on and cured for 3 days at 70 to 80 deg in my hot box. I sanded the epoxy flat to a .845 joint collar. I put on the Solarez while the cue was spinning slowly. I used the 4 oz squeeze bottle for an applicator. I spiraled the finish down the cue and then smoothed it out with a playing card until the sparkles were gone and it looked very flat. I added a little bit more and smoothed it again.

I gave it just a minute or 2 and then used the UV light to cure it. I use a 36 watt finger nail light from Ebay that costs $16. With the cue spinning slowly, I moved the light up and down the cue with the light a few inches away. I noticed the finish dulled a little as it began to cure. After about 10 minutes, it was hard as a rock.

The joint measured .859. I sanded the joint down to .850. I wet sanded length wise with 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000. Then I polished with 2 compounds while spinning and finished it off on the 12 inch buffing wheels.

It has an smell like automotive bondo that dissapears after it cures. I use a small exhaust fan and a respirator until I wet sand.




http://www.ebay.com/itm/36W-Profess...441875?hash=item35e6eb38d3:g:xccAAOSwNSxVBrSo

I slide off the bottom of the light and tape foil over the front to reflect all the UV light out the bottom........ seems to work well.









Kim
 
Sunchaser

Sunchaser

Belgian Malinois
Silver Member
Finish looks very nice and thank you for run down on your process. Props on the props. They look great oversized. Very well done indeed. Matt D.
 
whammo57

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
finger nail light .... the bottom slides off so you change the bulbs.... I leave the bottom off and add a reflective piece of foil over the front.... so that all the UV goes out the bottom... I hold the light 3 to 4 inches from the cue and move it up and down the cue as it spins slowly. It takes about 10 minutes for a cue and about 4 minutes for a shaft.... only the first 3 to 4 inches of a shaft are finished.

The bulbs lose their power over time... a new set of bulbs is available for $5 on ebay.




 
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pescadoman

pescadoman

Randy
Silver Member
mekp

It's interesting that it can be cured with MEKP. MEKP is what the guys use to clear the vinlyester on boats.
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Not to knock Kim's post, or rain on anyone's parade, but I have done 3 full cues with this finish, and a couple of shafts, using the recommended sealer for it on top of doing multiple practice pieces also. As with anything, there is a learning curve, and this stuff ain't so simple to use, unless you figure out the right way to apply it. Otherwise it'll peel like a banana about a week later and or will have hundreds of pinholes in the finish that the sanding dust and buffing compounds get stuck in.

A nail light is not recommended as First, it's not strong enough to cure it as deep as is needed. Secondly, There is NO protection from the UV rays, even though they may be weaker than other sources, UV exposure from using this light as shown above over time, can and will cause eye and skin damage to occur if proper safety practices are not followed. I am using 4 - 4ft. -45 watt UV lights in an enclosed tunnel, for a good reason. I also use UV blocking eye wear when inserting or removing a cue from the tunnel, to prevent eye damage. Concerning the strength of the light, Try doing a full forearm of solid black ebony, especially without the proper sealer and you'll understand what I'm saying. That much Black absorbs the UV, and the finish doesn't crosslink as much as it should and therefore doesn't bond at the base as well as it should. I've held off doing my review of Solarez due to some issues and wanted to solve them first before speaking yea or nay on it. There are a few things to do, and some to not do if you want a quality finish that looks great and holds up well, and doesn't kill you in the process.
I will be posting my review, and my procedures/findings hopefully in the next day or 2 in the ATCM section.
Dave
 
whammo57

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
Dave38 said:
Not to knock Kim's post, or rain on anyone's parade, but I have done 3 full cues with this finish, and a couple of shafts, using the recommended sealer for it on top of doing multiple practice pieces also. As with anything, there is a learning curve, and this stuff ain't so simple to use, unless you figure out the right way to apply it. Otherwise it'll peel like a banana about a week later and or will have hundreds of pinholes in the finish that the sanding dust and buffing compounds get stuck in.

A nail light is not recommended as First, it's not strong enough to cure it as deep as is needed. Secondly, There is NO protection from the UV rays, even though they may be weaker than other sources, UV exposure from using this light as shown above over time, can and will cause eye and skin damage to occur if proper safety practices are not followed. I am using 4 - 4ft. -45 watt UV lights in an enclosed tunnel, for a good reason. I also use UV blocking eye wear when inserting or removing a cue from the tunnel, to prevent eye damage. Concerning the strength of the light, Try doing a full forearm of solid black ebony, especially without the proper sealer and you'll understand what I'm saying. That much Black absorbs the UV, and the finish doesn't crosslink as much as it should and therefore doesn't bond at the base as well as it should. I've held off doing my review of Solarez due to some issues and wanted to solve them first before speaking yea or nay on it. There are a few things to do, and some to not do if you want a quality finish that looks great and holds up well, and doesn't kill you in the process.
I will be posting my review, and my procedures/findings hopefully in the next day or 2 in the ATCM section.
Dave
Click to expand...


I don't use the sealer as it yellowed in my test.... and the UV nail light cures the finish just fine.

I did a test piece on a 1 3/8 maple dowel. I put the solarez over an epoxy base coat. Then I beat it up with the edge of an angle iron. It dented and gouged but did not chip or de-laminate at all.

I have not experienced any problems curing the finish on black.

I will probably switch to the 4 foot black light in the future just because it is easier to use.

Kim.
 
Q

qbilder

slower than snails
Silver Member
I tried some Solarez about a year or so ago, and it was ok from what I could tell. I thought it would be a good idea to use on a chestnut oak vanity top, seeing as how it's intended for surf boards. Went on great, cured great, but when we lifted the top to install, the small amount of flex caused the finish crack & pop like broken glass. Was easy enough to fix, and ultimately worked out ok, but left me gun shy.
 
whammo57

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
I don't know want you used but it was not solarez....

I did a wooden test piece and beat the shit out of it with an angle iron and it did not crack or chip... just dents.

I put a layer of solarez on the back of a piece of 220 sand paper... I can bend and twist it back and forth and no cracks. Polyester is flexible but still hard.

I certainly did not "shatter like glass".................. LOL


Kim
 
Canadian cue

Canadian cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I admire the efforts people like yourself and Dave have gone too in order to make the UV finish a viable option and looks like it may work out. Having said that I fail to see how this makes the job of finishing any easier, safer or better than two part urethane. Each system has it's health hazards. When I finish a cue I mix up up a shot glass worth of finish, apply it to a spinning cue via an artists brush, wash out my brush with a little solvent and I am done. Once the finish has cured some (20 min), turn off the lathe take off my mask and head into the house. Next day wet sand and polish. I have had a learning curve when it comes to prepping and application but still don't see how the UV makes life any easier.
 
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JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Canadian cue said:
I admire the efforts people like yourself and Dave have gone too in order to make the UV finish a viable option and looks like it may work out. Having said that I fail to see how this makes the job of finishing any easier, safer or better than two part urethane. Each system has it's health hazards. When I finish a cue I mix up up a shot glass worth of finish, apply it to a spinning cue via an artists brush, wash out my brush with a little solvent and I am done. Once the finish has cured some (20 min), turn off the lathe take off my mask and head into the house. Next day wet sand and polish. I have had a learning curve when it comes to prepping and application but still don't see how the UV makes life any easier.
Click to expand...

I'm planning in building a spray rack out of aluminum extrusion . I already have a small booth and one spinner .

I don't know if the UV has fumes when it's drying . But, that stuff should not be dried inside the shop, I think. Just like auto clear .

Epoxy finish would be the safest, I think.
 
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