Tips for making your cue look new!

cornerstone

cornerstone

Psalm 91:15
Silver Member
here are some great secrets for making your used cue look much better befor selling! call it detailing. shafts ,the best product on shafts is Mr majic erase. a foam pad that pulls Blue out of the grain, lightly dampen(not wet) and stroke with the grain,then take a micro fibre cloth and rub very fast until you feel it getting warm (making shure it is completely dry)!this will turn the dirties shaft white!then use a 2500 paper on it to smoot it up!! this will blow your mind! next the Finish first clean with a windex (or similar)to remove surface dirt.thenthe best product for finish is "Maguires scratch X".a automotivefinish guy turned me on to this.you must first prep any scratches or or white dings.duro color makes a clear coat touch up( if it is got a ton have it refinished) also if the scratch is on ebony use a black sharpie and lightly hit the area (It soaks in and is perm!)then after your touchups. use the scratch x to move the finish around spinning the cue on your knee. If you work it hard you can even polish alot of yellow out of old finishes! then use a real carnuba paste wax very lightly and buff to a shine. the joint and pin / rubber bumper also use the carnuba! for brass joints use tooth paste the wraps are a little tougher leather you can use lexoil leather cleaner, lightly dampen rag and clean and let sit until dry1hr . then use a high buff shoe polish and do it 2-3 times and your old cue will look 20xs better!! the only thig we have not found a good product for is linin wraps. tell us your secrets? you will love the results (now this is for minor touchups) if your cue is real rough send it to scott shrbine! thanks azes and hope you like the tips!! Bill
 
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Super smooth shaft!!

Before I put up my pole I wipe it and then rub the shaft with a piece of braided leather until it feels warm! This will burnish the shaft and your oils from your skin will actually help seal the wood. The shaft wood starts to take on a glassy appearance and the shaft will also feel polished.
I do this to my playing cue about everytime.
Try it. You might never have your shaft sanded clean again.
Nick :)
 
nick serdula said:
Before I put up my pole I wipe it and then rub the shaft with a piece of braided leather until it feels warm! This will burnish the shaft and your oils from your skin will actually help seal the wood. The shaft wood starts to take on a glassy appearance and the shaft will also feel polished.
I do this to my playing cue about everytime.
Try it. You might never have your shaft sanded clean again.
Nick :)
Click to expand...


Yeah, Nick, that's exactly what I do. I sand my shaft once when it's brand new to get that damn coating off of it and then it's just tender loving care after that. I don't think I've ever sanded my shafts more than just that first time. The leather burnisher works wonders.
MULLY
 
cornerstone said:
here are some great secrets for making your used cue look much better befor selling! call it detailing. shafts ,the best product on shafts is Mr majic erase. a foam pad that pulls Blue out of the grain, lightly dampen(not wet) and stroke with the grain,then take a micro fibre cloth and rub very fast until you feel it getting warm (making shure it is completely dry)!this will turn the dirties shaft white!then use a 2500 paper on it to smoot it up!! this will blow your mind! next the Finish first clean with a windex (or similar)to remove surface dirt.thenthe best product for finish is "Maguires scratch X".a automotivefinish guy turned me on to this.you must first prep any scratches or or white dings.duro color makes a clear coat touch up( if it is got a ton have it refinished) also if the scratch is on ebony use a black sharpie and lightly hit the area (It soaks in and is perm!)then after your touchups. use the scratch x to move the finish around spinning the cue on your knee. If you work it hard you can even polish alot of yellow out of old finishes! then use a real carnuba paste wax very lightly and buff to a shine. the joint and pin / rubber bumper also use the carnuba! for brass joints use tooth paste the wraps are a little tougher leather you can use lexoil leather cleaner, lightly dampen rag and clean and let sit until dry1hr . then use a high buff shoe polish and do it 2-3 times and your old cue will look 20xs better!! the only thig we have not found a good product for is linin wraps. tell us your secrets? you will love the results (now this is for minor touchups) if your cue is real rough send it to scott shrbine! thanks azes and hope you like the tips!! Bill
Click to expand...
now this is for used cues that need help (not new ones that are unplayed because they dont need repair) but beware of others dealers selling stolen cues! or giving letters of auth on fake bushkas!Iguess that is why there are more out there then he ever made! Oh I love this forum
 
cornerstone said:
now this is for used cues that need help (not new ones that are unplayed because they dont need repair) but beware of others dealers selling stolen cues! or giving letters of auth on fake bushkas!Iguess that is why there are more out there then he ever made! Oh I love this forum
Click to expand...

I agree wholeheartedly.. As knowing someone who BOUGHT a stolen cue, not sold one... definitely watch the letters of authenticity, they come from very unreliable sources, but whats even worse, is when a reputable cue maker says it is a Bushka, when it's not and you have to stand him down (the real story) But the biggest thing you need to watch out for is when someone sells a Gina cue as "right from Ernie"" when it came from another dealer.

JV (---loves the forums to..
 
nick serdula said:
Before I put up my pole I wipe it and then rub the shaft with a piece of braided leather until it feels warm! This will burnish the shaft and your oils from your skin will actually help seal the wood. The shaft wood starts to take on a glassy appearance and the shaft will also feel polished.
I do this to my playing cue about everytime.
Try it. You might never have your shaft sanded clean again.
Nick :)
Click to expand...

I bought some micromesh before I got my last cue in October. After I got my cue, I started using a leather burnisher and letting the natural oils from my hands to do the rest. My cue hasn't needed that micromesh even once. I think my shaft actually got slicker after the first 2 months of just burnishing.
 
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nick serdula said:
Before I put up my pole I wipe it and then rub the shaft with a piece of braided leather until it feels warm! This will burnish the shaft and your oils from your skin will actually help seal the wood. The shaft wood starts to take on a glassy appearance and the shaft will also feel polished.
I do this to my playing cue about everytime.
Try it. You might never have your shaft sanded clean again.
Nick :)
Click to expand...

Before I put up my pole I wipe it and then rub the shaft with a piece of braided leather until it feels warm!

Nick do you ever get Blisters:eek: sounds kinda rough to me!!!!!!!!:D

Manwon
 
No bliters!

manwon said:
Before I put up my pole I wipe it and then rub the shaft with a piece of braided leather until it feels warm!

Nick do you ever get Blisters:eek: sounds kinda rough to me!!!!!!!!:D

Manwon
Click to expand...

I only usually rub the 1st 10 inches or so!
Nick :)
 
Seriously

Your fingers work mostly on the shafts first 10 inches from the tip so that is where you would most appreciate the glassy smooth finish you will see in a very short time! I would never do this to a cue that I were detailing. Appearance is really not the goal here. A silky smooth playing shaft is!
For appearance if you need help try lighter fluid. It will definately remove the blue from the shafts. The only drawback about using the lighter fluid is your shaft will need to be resealed after it is cleaned to properly protect the shaftwood .
Nick :)
 
nick serdula said:
Your fingers work mostly on the shafts first 10 inches from the tip so that is where you would most appreciate the glassy smooth finish you will see in a very short time! I would never do this to a cue that I were detailing. Appearance is really not the goal here. A silky smooth playing shaft is!
For appearance if you need help try lighter fluid. It will definately remove the blue from the shafts. The only drawback about using the lighter fluid is your shaft will need to be resealed after it is cleaned to properly protect the shaftwood .
Nick :)
Click to expand...
good tips , now this is why this discussion is needed. more tips on cue maintaince! thanks Buddyl
 
nick serdula said:
Your fingers work mostly on the shafts first 10 inches from the tip so that is where you would most appreciate the glassy smooth finish you will see in a very short time! I would never do this to a cue that I were detailing. Appearance is really not the goal here. A silky smooth playing shaft is!
For appearance if you need help try lighter fluid. It will definately remove the blue from the shafts. The only drawback about using the lighter fluid is your shaft will need to be resealed after it is cleaned to properly protect the shaftwood .
Nick :)
Click to expand...

Nick, what sealer would you recommend? A friend uses sanding sealer liquid on a lathe applying with a rag. Is carnuba wax ok?

Curly
 
Carnauba or any wax should not be used on a shaft, period! All it will do is allow more dirt and grime to gather on the shaft. Wipe a shaft clean with a damp paper towel and then immediately dry and burnish with dry washcloth or fabric. Follow this with leather burnisher if you prefer.

Behlen's Woodturner's Finish thinned with lacquer thinner about 3-4 parts lacquer thinner to 1 part Woodturner's Finish is an excellent shaft sealer. YMMV.

Martin


curly said:
Nick, what sealer would you recommend? A friend uses sanding sealer liquid on a lathe applying with a rag. Is carnuba wax ok?

Curly
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Martin for the info. I agree that waxes could collect dirt etc over time. I heard that carnuba wax is strippable where some of the poly types are not. It's a good idea not to use any wax. Do you have any idea on what I should use to remove the wax? Is lighter fluid ok? Some have suggested Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.

Curly

jazznpool said:
Carnauba or any wax should not be used on a shaft, period! All it will do is allow more dirt and grime to gather on the shaft. Wipe a shaft clean with a damp paper towel and then immediately dry and burnish with dry washcloth or fabric. Follow this with leather burnisher if you prefer.

Behlen's Woodturner's Finish thinned with lacquer thinner about 3-4 parts lacquer thinner to 1 part Woodturner's Finish is an excellent shaft sealer. YMMV.

Martin
Click to expand...
 
Hi

Yeah, he knows his stuff. He puts my tips on and cleans the shaft and seals it while spinning it in his lathe and shaping the tip.

Curly

nick serdula said:
Sounds like your friend knows his stuff!
Nick :)
Click to expand...
 
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