Trimming a tip by hand with no pricey tools

H

hejests

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Warning: You're about to see the stupidest invention that works amazingly well for trimming a tip flush by hand.

Basically, I put together a cutting tool using an OLFA UltraMax LBB blade (really sharp and cheep 6$/10 blades), masking tape and a plastic stir stick (for coffee) to cut tips flush with the ferrule.

Trimming tips with a blade is tricky because of the blade's bevelled edge. You can't lay the blade flat against the ferrule to use the ferrule as a cutting guide because it won't cut flush. You need to come in at angle (consistent with the angle of the bevel). If you come in too steep you cut into the ferrule.

So here it is, tape the stir stick to the non-cutting side of the blade so that half the stir stick is under the blade and half isn't. This raises the butt end of the blade to the perfect angle so that the bevelled cutting edge lays flat with the ferrule. So long as you?re pushing the contraption against the ferrule it should cut straight across and not into your ferrule, which means you can now use the ferrule as a cutting guide. (Don't lose a finger, and test it on something other than your ferrule!)

Here are some pics:

Tool balancing itself on the ferrule (you can see how the bevelled edge is flush with the ferrule, BTW this is the tip I just did):
BeveledBlade.jpg


And here's what it would look like from the underside:
Blade.jpg


Very simple but it works great. Also when using a blade I find that slicing (with a smooth solid stroke) works better that chopping or guillotining.

Good Luck!
 
hejests said:
Warning: You're about to see the stupidest invention that works amazingly well for trimming a tip flush by hand.

Blade.jpg
Click to expand...

The safety razor was a fine invention :D

Dave,
uses one too
with fine results
just like hejests suggests
(say THAT 10 times :D )
 
Klopek said:
I use the blade from a wood plane. It only has a bevel on one side. I place the non-beveled side against the ferrule, cuts flush every time. Blade cost me about $8 and I can resharpen it to razor crispness each time.

Whatever works for you.:)
Click to expand...

I like that!
 
hejests said:
Warning: You're about to see the stupidest invention that works amazingly well for trimming a tip flush by hand.
So long as you?re pushing the contraption against the ferrule it should cut straight across and not into your ferrule, which means you can now use the ferrule as a cutting guide. (Don't lose a finger, and test it on something other than your ferrule!)

Here are some pics:

Tool balancing itself on the ferrule (you can see how the bevelled edge is flush with the ferrule, BTW this is the tip I just did):
BeveledBlade.jpg

Very simple but it works great. Also when using a blade I find that slicing (with a smooth solid stroke) works better that chopping or guillotining.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

I must be more anal about my tip and ferrule than I thought- I figure that paying $5 to have my tip guy install my $15 tip on a lathe is worth the hassle. Last time I trimmed by hand with a razorblade I generated little slivers of white along with leather:eek: ! Did you trim the tip in the picture with that tool? If so, congrats on the steady hands!

Steve (no longer trusting himself with a razor)
 
Runnin8 said:
I must be more anal about my tip and ferrule than I thought- I figure that paying $5 to have my tip guy install my $15 tip on a lathe is worth the hassle. Last time I trimmed by hand with a razorblade I generated little slivers of white along with leather:eek: ! Did you trim the tip in the picture with that tool? If so, congrats on the steady hands!

Steve (no longer trusting himself with a razor)
Click to expand...
Yep, I trimmed it with my contraption the finished it up on my drill with 2000 grit, came out pretty decent.

Klopek,

Where do you find the wood plane blade? ( i scoured canadian tire trying to find a blade with side only bevel, to no avail... but then I was probably looking in the wrong isles)
 
How do these tools work on Snipers? I've done numerous tips with a razor blade, utility knife blade, and a Porper mushroom grazer. Moori and Talisman layered tips are easy for me. I've ruined a few Snipers by having them delaminate due to the direction of the cutting force. They're a great performing tip, but the toughest tip to trim and polish that I've ever seen.

Bill
 
hejests said:
Yep, I trimmed it with my contraption the finished it up on my drill with 2000 grit, came out pretty decent.

Klopek,

Where do you find the wood plane blade? ( i scoured canadian tire trying to find a blade with side only bevel, to no avail... but then I was probably looking in the wrong isles)
Click to expand...


I haven't looked but a great hardware catalog that specializes in woodworking tools is www.leevalley.com
 
JimS said:
I haven't looked but a great hardware catalog that specializes in woodworking tools is www.leevalley.com
Click to expand...

Great ? Lee Valley is OUTSTANDING, imo. The planer blade is an excellent idea, and Lee Valley is the place to get one ... you can even chose your alloy, something that warms the heart of us cold calculating engineers.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42607&cat=1,41182,43698&ap=1

Three locations in Toronto ... but I like the new one in Saskatoon. :D

Dave
 
billyjack said:
How do these tools work on Snipers? I've done numerous tips with a razor blade, utility knife blade, and a Porper mushroom grazer. Moori and Talisman layered tips are easy for me. I've ruined a few Snipers by having them delaminate due to the direction of the cutting force. They're a great performing tip, but the toughest tip to trim and polish that I've ever seen.

Bill
Click to expand...

Use some sandingpapers and sand the snipers. I'm also using sandingpapers to sand my sniper.
 
WesleyW said:
Use some sandingpapers and sand the snipers. I'm also using sandingpapers to sand my sniper.
Click to expand...

Like you, all I ever needed was four grades of sandpaper to take a tip down. And never touch the shaft either, just the ferrule. When I was done, it was smooth as a baby's behind.
 
billyjack said:
How do these tools work on Snipers? I've done numerous tips with a razor blade, utility knife blade, and a Porper mushroom grazer. Moori and Talisman layered tips are easy for me. I've ruined a few Snipers by having them delaminate due to the direction of the cutting force. They're a great performing tip, but the toughest tip to trim and polish that I've ever seen.

Bill
Click to expand...
I'll let you know, I'm trying a sniper next (got a couple coming from Nielsen's). You're right about mooris and talismans being pretty easy to install though. I'm weary of the sniper. I may just end up sanding the tip right down (I have a drill with a pin i use to spin the shaft for cleaning and burnishing). I'd have to be careful with the tip heating up too much and melting the glue...
 
billyjack said:
How do these tools work on Snipers? I've done numerous tips with a razor blade, utility knife blade, and a Porper mushroom grazer. Moori and Talisman layered tips are easy for me. I've ruined a few Snipers by having them delaminate due to the direction of the cutting force. They're a great performing tip, but the toughest tip to trim and polish that I've ever seen.

Bill
Click to expand...
Billyjack to answer your question, now that i've tried a sniper by hand...

My blade was rediculously sharp and I made very clean slices. Felt very little resistant on the blade. It definitely didn't feel like i was pulling at or tearing the leather... and... I blew out the sniper after three cuts. I pushed on the side wall to test, and the tip was an accordian! Man that's a delicate tip.
 
Snipers are best left to the professionals...unless you want to buy a LOT of them. They are unique in that you can ruin it, but it'll still look & hit ok...but its not. I've seen way too many players complain that they didn't like their Sniper...then I look at it & it was indeed butchered by the installer. The tip is the most important part of the cue...and your game. Why risk it or try and save a dollar. There are even a ton of cue repair guys installing them ruined...I promise you.;)
 
I have installed several snipers using my homemade drill gadget and never had a problem. Maybe I was lucky? I like the idea of sanding instead of using a blade..but it sure seems like it would take a long time and also generate more heat to potentially cause a problem.

Jay...was it a sniper you sanded? Give me your procedure please.

Kevin..if a pro can install a sniper wrong...how can we tell? Whats the characteristics of a poorly installed sniper?
 
I've ruined a few on my Willard, even with brand new blades. A properly installed tip will have no movement if you rock the tip with your thumb form side to side. I've had 2 Snipers, that when you rock them, you'll see gaps in the leather, which means that it delaminated. You will also feel a dead hit, when you test hit it. Kevin is right, Sniper's are best installed on a lathe, and there is also some other considerations you must heed when doing so.
I do love the hit and action you get from a Sniper, but unfortunately, I live in an area that doesn't have a bonified cue repairman with proper equipment, so I took it upon myself to buy a Willard and do tips for others in my league. Because of this, I have to tell them to look at other tips instead, because of this problem. Also, be extra careful when burnishing a Sniper, if you didn't kill it with the trimmer, the heat from burnishing will do it in. I'm getting a batch of Super Molavia's this week, I'm dying to see how these perform!!!
 
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I don't install my own tips. I'm just not good at it. I tried to put on a layered tip and made a mess out of it. Did everything by hand. I find it easier to have the tip install by a professional and my confidence level goes up by having the tip installed by someone else. IJM.
 
I have too install my own tips, only done it twice though and havent messed one up yet. Another one of the downsides of living in a town with no pool hall/scene.
 
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