OB-1 carbon fiber pad

David Beck

Let us to Billiards!
Silver Member
Yesterday I noticed a gap was forming between the tip and the carbon fiber pad, so I took the tip off and put another one on. I couldn't get it to sit flush, so I took it off and noticed the pad was actually lower around the edges. I think the guy who replaced the tip last time sanded a little too much off while removing my old tip. Anyway, I tried to even it out, and pretty much just ended up making it worse.

So.. Is this something I can get a local cuemaker to replace, or would it be better to send it back to the OB guys? I better go practice with my traditional maple shaft for league tonight. =/

Thanks,
David
 

ScottW

Fo' shizzle!
Silver Member
If your local guy isn't intimately familiar with OB-1s as far as the tips etc, you might be better off sending it back in.

I had an issue with a Predator 314 a couple years ago, the ferrule cracked, and I had a local guy fix it. I didn't know at the time that the 314s had an unusual design on that end - and my guy basically jacked the original design over to put a normal ferrule on.

Later, when I discovered this issue and decided to get it properly repaired, I found that Predator would/could not do it - as the damage was done, the shaft could be restored to the original state.
 

ridewiththewind

♥ Hippie Hustler ♥
Silver Member
Bear in mind that when ever a fiber pad is being used, and a tip is being replaced, that the fiber pad must be re-faced in order for the tip to adhere to the pad properly, other wise, it's going to just pop off...most likely during play. :mad:

Lisa
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
ridewiththewind said:
Bear in mind that when ever a fiber pad is being used, and a tip is being replaced, that the fiber pad must be re-faced in order for the tip to adhere to the pad properly, other wise, it's going to just pop off...most likely during play. :mad:

Lisa
I have done one tip replacement on OB1 so far.
I had to be realllly careful in facing that pad.
I removed the tip with a knife. NOT in the lathe with toolbit as it might push or pull the pad.
Then I faced off the leather left there really thinly until I saw no leather was left.
Some white gorilla glue in there and breathing at the bottom of the tip. Clean and clamp for an hour.
Trim and clean . Done.
 

ridewiththewind

♥ Hippie Hustler ♥
Silver Member
JoeyInCali said:
I have done one tip replacement on OB1 so far.
I had to be realllly careful in facing that pad.
I removed the tip with a knife. NOT in the lathe with toolbit as it might push or pull the pad.
Then I faced off the leather left there really thinly until I saw no leather was left.
Some white gorilla glue in there and breathing at the bottom of the tip. Clean and clamp for an hour.
Trim and clean . Done.


Good point, Joey...I should have perhaps mentioned it in my post. :eek: Got to be careful when facing the pad...not a lot to work with.

Lisa
 

RBC

Deceased
To Everyone,

Replacing the tip on an OB-1 is only slightly different than on most cues.

The most important thing is that the pad, which is a carbon fiber disc and not a conventional paper pad, needs to be either left in place or replaced with a new one from us at OB Cues. Pads are available and inexpensive so cue repair persons can call us if they need to buy some.

Most times, the pad need not be replaced. The easiest way to keep it is to trim the tip away the same as you would any other shaft, but don't cut into the pad. When you are down very close to the pad use a razor blade to lightly scrape the remainder of the tip and glue off. While the shaft is spinning, hold the blade horizontal, or flat in front of you with the edge facing the end of the ferrule. Gently press the blade against the pad and let it scrape the pad clean. This will ensure a clean flat pad to glue your tip to. I learned this technique from a Sheldon Lebow. This way, the pad is not cut thinner and it can stay on forever if you like. Sheldon used to have a video of this, but I could not find it. If anyone has any questions on how this is done, feel free to call me.

If the pad does need to be replaced, it is glued on just like any other pad, but you must use a carbide cutter to trim it because it will destroy high speed steel tools.

We use Loctite Professional CA adhesive that is available at any Lowe's or Home Depot. Lightly sand the pad after installation to ensure that the tip will adhere properly.

That's basically it. Of, course, anyone who has an OB-1 can call us or send the cue shaft in to us for repairs. If you do send your cue shaft to us, please go here:
http://www.obcues.com/carerepair.html
and download the return for repairs form. Complete it and send it in with the cue shaft. You would be amazed how many cues and shafts we get with nothing to identify who it came from.

Thanks!

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 

Flex

Banger
Silver Member
metallicarokerx said:
I heard of someone just playing with a tip without the pad, is that safe?

Get ready for the shaft/ferrule to break, and a voided warranty...

Not a good idea.
 

Jule

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Flex said:
Get ready for the shaft/ferrule to break, and a voided warranty...

Not a good idea.

Didn't the first gen of shafts come without pads? Maybe it's one of those...
 

Flex

Banger
Silver Member
Jule said:
Didn't the first gen of shafts come without pads? Maybe it's one of those...

The pad on my OB-1 came came off and I called the OB-1 folks; they told me to glue it back in place with SuperGlue gel.

What I saw under the pad certainly convinced me to use one. That ferrule is plenty thin; those pads are incredibly strong. Just try to cut through or trim one with an exacto knife and you'll be a believer.

If there was an OB-1 first gen shaft, I'm unaware of it, unless it's the one I'm using, and it has a carbon fiber pad.

Flex
 

WheatCues

Banned
Flex said:
The pad on my OB-1 came came off and I called the OB-1 folks; they told me to glue it back in place with SuperGlue gel.

What I saw under the pad certainly convinced me to use one. That ferrule is plenty thin; those pads are incredibly strong. Just try to cut through or trim one with an exacto knife and you'll be a believer.

If there was an OB-1 first gen shaft, I'm unaware of it, unless it's the one I'm using, and it has a carbon fiber pad.

Flex


When I spoke with Royce about becoming a distributor for OB-1 shafts my initial question to him was if the pad made a noticable difference in the hit of the shaft and he assured me they did the testing with and without the pad and there was NO noticable difference between the the two....

However, I was under the impression the carbon pad is an obvious neccessity due to the physical properties and overall assembly of the shafts design, especially the wood ferrule and can't imagine any previous generations without one !

I could be wrong.... but there has to be some type of pad between the ferrule and tip to preserve the laminated wood ferrule's integrety....

By the way... loc-tite super glue gel is very reliable and will adequately suffice, I have been using it religously for years without incident....




- Eddie Wheat
 

charlieb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
JoeyInCali said:
I have done one tip replacement on OB1 so far.
I had to be realllly careful in facing that pad.
I removed the tip with a knife. NOT in the lathe with toolbit as it might push or pull the pad.
Then I faced off the leather left there really thinly until I saw no leather was left.
Some white gorilla glue in there and breathing at the bottom of the tip. Clean and clamp for an hour.
Trim and clean . Done.

Came out perfect and remains so.
 
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