Well, I doubt the next set of shots are going to get the same attention as the last but overwhelmingly important to say the least. STOP and STUN shots are the backbone of position play. These are the shots you'll look for most because of their unparallel predictability and ease to execute. The key is, when to use one over the other.
This first shot is a prime opportunity to use what I'll refer to as a soft stop shot. On a shot like this, the goal is to hit the cueball as soft as possible yet not have it travel forward after contact AT ALL. Confines are tight, you don't want to get hooked and yet, you still want to make sure you pocket the 6-ball. The biggest mistake I find players making on this shot is not trusting it and hitting the 6 too full. Assuming you actually hit it low enough, the cueball will barely slide to the left after contact and you'll maintain your angle for the 7.
The second shot is the exact opposite from the first. Here, the shooter is taking care of business and wants to avoid disaster. Every time I see this out amongst lower rank players, I know they have no idea how poor their chances are. The key is to stay off the rail which is an easy rule to remember. The question is HOW. Here, instead of hitting a soft draw shot, a firm punch is necessary. Aim for a pure center-ball hit and punch the cue ball directly into the 8. The cueball will quickly find the rail and rebound out leaving you ample room to cue up for the 9.
Situations where you must hold the cueball like in the first shot arise all the time and with some, you can minimize cueball movement incredibly. In this shot, the shooter wants to maintain an angle for the 8-ball to guarantee he will be able to cross the length of the table for the 9. On a shot like this, not only can you use a soft stop shot to keep the cueball from rebounding off the rail much, you can also employ a small amount of outside spin to throw the 7-ball a little and allow for a fuller hit.
You still want to be able to apply a stun stop shot when necessary, too. You'll be amazed how you can take the smallest of angles and have the cueball travel several feet. In situations like the shot above, instead of cheating the pocket for position, you can aim for the heart of the pocket and punch your way into the position zone.
Even though I've broken it down into two basic shots, there are a full array of stop shots in between and it's important to have a good grasp of them. The soft stop shot is trademark amongst all good players. Its pocket speed and predictable movement make it overwhelmingly favorable method of shooting when no position is necessary. However, it's stun that gets the cueball moving and the simpliest way to execute the perpendicular path off the object ball.
These shots may not be as sexy as what I discussed yesterday but like yesterday's shots, they are the backbone of more complex shots that you'll encounter like these:
Stun Shots:
http://CueTable.com/P/?@3HRQT2INle2PEQJ3cRQT3ccAu2kEQJ3kQbD3kaof1kbpN1kKSH@
Soft Stop Shots:
This first shot is a prime opportunity to use what I'll refer to as a soft stop shot. On a shot like this, the goal is to hit the cueball as soft as possible yet not have it travel forward after contact AT ALL. Confines are tight, you don't want to get hooked and yet, you still want to make sure you pocket the 6-ball. The biggest mistake I find players making on this shot is not trusting it and hitting the 6 too full. Assuming you actually hit it low enough, the cueball will barely slide to the left after contact and you'll maintain your angle for the 7.
The second shot is the exact opposite from the first. Here, the shooter is taking care of business and wants to avoid disaster. Every time I see this out amongst lower rank players, I know they have no idea how poor their chances are. The key is to stay off the rail which is an easy rule to remember. The question is HOW. Here, instead of hitting a soft draw shot, a firm punch is necessary. Aim for a pure center-ball hit and punch the cue ball directly into the 8. The cueball will quickly find the rail and rebound out leaving you ample room to cue up for the 9.
Situations where you must hold the cueball like in the first shot arise all the time and with some, you can minimize cueball movement incredibly. In this shot, the shooter wants to maintain an angle for the 8-ball to guarantee he will be able to cross the length of the table for the 9. On a shot like this, not only can you use a soft stop shot to keep the cueball from rebounding off the rail much, you can also employ a small amount of outside spin to throw the 7-ball a little and allow for a fuller hit.
You still want to be able to apply a stun stop shot when necessary, too. You'll be amazed how you can take the smallest of angles and have the cueball travel several feet. In situations like the shot above, instead of cheating the pocket for position, you can aim for the heart of the pocket and punch your way into the position zone.
Even though I've broken it down into two basic shots, there are a full array of stop shots in between and it's important to have a good grasp of them. The soft stop shot is trademark amongst all good players. Its pocket speed and predictable movement make it overwhelmingly favorable method of shooting when no position is necessary. However, it's stun that gets the cueball moving and the simpliest way to execute the perpendicular path off the object ball.
These shots may not be as sexy as what I discussed yesterday but like yesterday's shots, they are the backbone of more complex shots that you'll encounter like these:
Stun Shots:
http://CueTable.com/P/?@3HRQT2INle2PEQJ3cRQT3ccAu2kEQJ3kQbD3kaof1kbpN1kKSH@
Soft Stop Shots:
