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Hal
03-08-2005, 09:26 PM
I read on here the other day about how good a magic eraser works to clean shafts and ferrules. It is unbelievable. It really really works great.

Nick B
03-08-2005, 11:48 PM
The Magic eraser works "freaky good". You just gotta watch it clean a dirty ferule once and you will believe.

Nick :cool:

recoveryjones
03-09-2005, 12:27 AM
The Good news on Magic it Eraser:

It works great!!!! :)

Now for the bad news:

The tables in our poolroom are so damn filthy that in a matter of a set or two, your cue's dirty again. :mad:

Tried to talk the owners into some Quick clean, but they were quick to say, no way Jose,not today,won't pay, OK. :(

catscradle
03-09-2005, 05:04 AM
The Good news on Magic it Eraser:

...

Tried to talk the owners into some Quick clean, but they were quick to say, no way Jose,not today,won't pay, OK. :(

Maybe you can talk them into cleaning the tables the old fashion way with a damp rag. I hate dirty tables, it really isn't a lot of effort to keep them relatively clean.

buddha162
03-09-2005, 05:16 AM
Use a damp/wet lint-free towel, swipe across the bed with gentle pressure. Don't get the cushions wet...Does a better job than Quick Clean, imho (and won't cost you a thing)

-Roger

Koop
03-09-2005, 07:25 AM
Is there a certain method to use when cleaning with the Magic Eraser? I think I saw it written before but can't find it.

Thanks,
Dave

onepocketchump
03-09-2005, 07:45 AM
I am one of those people (probably the only one) who doesn't believe in the Magic Eraser. I tried it and found that it cleans no better than any number of alternatives and additionally puts scratches in my shaft and ferrules that I had to polish out.

I wouldn't reccomend this product for cleaning shafts and ferrules. There are any number of good shaft cleaners on the market that get rid of the dirt without harming the material. I personally reccomend just about any name brand shaft cleaner and Micro Mesh polishing paper (available at woodworker's supply).

I personally don't even bother cleaning my shaft - I keep the ferrule clean. I found that keeping my hands clean works best for a smooth shaft :-)

Jerry Franklin, the late founder of Southwest Cues, used to advise not to ever clean the shaft. He reccomended using the natural oils from your face to condition the shaft and make it practically impervious to the elements.

I do this periodically and never have a problem with my shafts.

John

skchengdds
03-09-2005, 08:10 AM
I am one of those people (probably the only one) who doesn't believe in the Magic Eraser. I tried it and found that it cleans no better than any number of alternatives and additionally puts scratches in my shaft and ferrules that I had to polish out.

I wouldn't reccomend this product for cleaning shafts and ferrules. There are any number of good shaft cleaners on the market that get rid of the dirt without harming the material. I personally reccomend just about any name brand shaft cleaner and Micro Mesh polishing paper (available at woodworker's supply).

I personally don't even bother cleaning my shaft - I keep the ferrule clean. I found that keeping my hands clean works best for a smooth shaft :-)

Jerry Franklin, the late founder of Southwest Cues, used to advise not to ever clean the shaft. He reccomended using the natural oils from your face to condition the shaft and make it practically impervious to the elements.

I do this periodically and never have a problem with my shafts.

John

Some people take care of their shafts/cues and a well seasoned, nicely burnished shaft will play and feel like gold. Other people aren't so "clean" and the shafts and ferrules look like an ashtray. For those shafts, the eraser works great and will literally clean everything off. Yes.....anytime you use the eraser you will need to let the shaft dry and then burnish it back out, but then you have a clean, smooth shaft that isn't such an eyesore.

I've never seen the eraser scratch anything, but that's my experience.

Easy to keep the ferrule clean. Just use "newish" chalk.

Don't use the eraser on a Bushka. Looks weird to have a 40 yr. old cue with clean white shafts :p

Saint
03-09-2005, 08:38 AM
Some people take care of their shafts/cues and a well seasoned, nicely burnished shaft will play and feel like gold. Other people aren't so "clean" and the shafts and ferrules look like an ashtray. For those shafts, the eraser works great and will literally clean everything off. Yes.....anytime you use the eraser you will need to let the shaft dry and then burnish it back out, but then you have a clean, smooth shaft that isn't such an eyesore.

I've never seen the eraser scratch anything, but that's my experience.

Easy to keep the ferrule clean. Just use "newish" chalk.

Don't use the eraser on a Bushka. Looks weird to have a 40 yr. old cue with clean white shafts :p


What do you use to burnish the shaft after using the eraser?

sixpack
03-09-2005, 09:00 AM
I am one of those people (probably the only one) who doesn't believe in the Magic Eraser. I tried it and found that it cleans no better than any number of alternatives and additionally puts scratches in my shaft and ferrules that I had to polish out.

I wouldn't reccomend this product for cleaning shafts and ferrules. There are any number of good shaft cleaners on the market that get rid of the dirt without harming the material. I personally reccomend just about any name brand shaft cleaner and Micro Mesh polishing paper (available at woodworker's supply).

I personally don't even bother cleaning my shaft - I keep the ferrule clean. I found that keeping my hands clean works best for a smooth shaft :-)

Jerry Franklin, the late founder of Southwest Cues, used to advise not to ever clean the shaft. He reccomended using the natural oils from your face to condition the shaft and make it practically impervious to the elements.

I do this periodically and never have a problem with my shafts.

John

John,

Thanks for the info. How do you get the oils from your face?

Cheers,
Regas

mjantti
03-09-2005, 09:06 AM
John,

Thanks for the info. How do you get the oils from your face?

Cheers,
Regas

Squeeze ? :p

buddha162
03-09-2005, 03:23 PM
What do you use to burnish the shaft after using the eraser?

Here's my process:

Clean with Magic Eraser (wet small square, squeeze out all water between paper towels, and "erase," rub, each section of shaft/ferrule until it's clean)

Let dry (5-10 minutes)

Very light touch-up with 2000 grit or above sandpaper, I'm talking about one swipe or two per plane of the shaft.

Clean with 94% rubbing alcohol.

Burnish with untreated leather pad, or paper towel.

-Roger

buddha162
03-09-2005, 03:27 PM
Well, my experience is that the Magic Eraser is significantly more effective on old, blued shafts/ferrules without taking off any wood. The melamine fibers reach into the wood pores and lifts the chalk stains out mechanically.

Trust me, it's different from any other cleaning product out there, and does a much, much better job.

-Roger

skchengdds
03-09-2005, 05:56 PM
What do you use to burnish the shaft after using the eraser?

First you need to let the shaft dry. That leaves a clean, but slightly coarse surface. I then take a clean rag to remove the Magic Eraser residue.

I'm old school. I use the McDermott mylar sheets in sequential order to get back to a glass like surface. Before that though, I use a glass rod to burnish out any nicks in the shaft.

I don't like sandpaper. The sawdust I see on the sandpaper makes me nervous. And since I don't have a lathe, I can't feel comfortable that I'm burnishing concentrically.

I don't understand burnishing with leather. Doesn't work too well for me.

Lastly, I rework the tip, burnish the sides, and rescuff the top.

Then I drink a beer!! :D

onepocketchump
03-09-2005, 06:16 PM
John,

Thanks for the info. How do you get the oils from your face?

Cheers,
Regas

This is kinda gross but there is almost always oil right along side the nose. I use it on the sides of the tip as well.

In response to the pro Magic Eraser crowd: If you look closely you will see that the Magic Eraser actually makes grooves on the shaft and the ferrule. I don't know but I am going to assume that these grooves would be more prone to collect dirt and debris. To me the only way to smooth out the grooves would be to sand them out. Which kind of defeats the purpose.

But I am sure that cuemakers would be more than happy to to see anything that whittles shafts down faster.

John

buddha162
03-10-2005, 02:19 AM
If you look closely you will see that the Magic Eraser actually makes grooves on the shaft and the ferrule.

Hi Jon,

Those grooves are actually the vacated space of ingrained chalk, once you remove it from the wood.

You can burnish very vigorously to seal those pores shut.

If you are to sand the shaft as a means to clean out all the deeply-imbedded chalk residue, it will take down significantly more wood than using the Magic Eraser. And btw, many of the cleaning products you mentioned are highly abrasive and "sands" the shaft as well.

-Roger

JimS
03-10-2005, 05:28 AM
I use the Magic Eraser and I swear by it. It cleans without removing wood and it REALLY cleans! Use it damp. Dry with a towel. Burnish with leather rubbing hard and fast 100 or so strokes getting the wood warm/hot. Wet the edge of the tip and burnish till it shines. It'll shine great, look great and play great. I love an immaculate shaft, ferrule and tip...even on an older cue. I"ve tried every shaft cleaning method suggested on every pool web site I can find and none have worked as well for me as the Magic Eraser.

Once it's clean I use cigarete lighter fluid to remove chalk dust and dirt from daily use. Love it!

vapoolplayer
03-10-2005, 07:17 AM
am i the only one that likes having the blue chalk stain on my shaft??? i have the color coded shaft burnishing paper, whatever its called. its a ripoff, like 10 bucks for the package, but hey it works. it keeps my cue silky smooth.

i just like the feel of the chalk stained shaft plus think the chalk adds character, i can't stand the feel of a brand new perfectly clean shaft...........am i the only one?

thanks

VAP

TheBook
03-10-2005, 07:25 AM
I have heard that some old time pros will take a brand new cue and burnish it with dirt before they ever take a shot with it. I don't know what kind of dirt they use but they want the shaft to get sealed and then will never clean it. They are also very careful not to get nicks in it.

TheBook
03-10-2005, 07:31 AM
I'm old school. I use the McDermott mylar sheets in sequential order to get back to a glass like surface. Before that though, I use a glass rod to burnish out any nicks in the shaft.

:D

Have you ever looked closely at the shaft after using the glass rod? All the rod does is blend the dent in. It does not raise it. It basically compresses the wood around it instead of popping the dent out. Using the rod just makes a long flat spot on the shaft.

vapoolplayer
03-10-2005, 07:31 AM
I have heard that some old time pros will take a brand new cue and burnish it with dirt before they ever take a shot with it. I don't know what kind of dirt they use but they want the shaft to get sealed and then will never clean it. They are also very careful not to get nicks in it.

i believe jimmy reid told me he burnishes his with sand when its new.

i'll actually take and rub blue master chalk on a dollar bill and burnish a new shaft.

thanks

VAP

onepocketchump
03-10-2005, 07:38 AM
Hi Jon,

Those grooves are actually the vacated space of ingrained chalk, once you remove it from the wood.

You can burnish very vigorously to seal those pores shut.

If you are to sand the shaft as a means to clean out all the deeply-imbedded chalk residue, it will take down significantly more wood than using the Magic Eraser. And btw, many of the cleaning products you mentioned are highly abrasive and "sands" the shaft as well.

-Roger

What? Vacated spaces of ingrained chalk? Are you high? The Magic Eraser also puts scratches on my formica and my mirror - are those vacated spaces as well?

Look, I just don't like thing. I read about it, I tried it and I think it's bad. I don't care enough to quanitfy it though. Just like I don't care enough to write a book about the hundreds of ways I have been taught and discovered to clean my shafts. I used to clean them religiously. Now I don't care. I wipe them once in a while with a damp cloth, burnish them with a dollar bill and a little oil and keep my hands clean. Works perfectly.

Want a clean ferrule? Use toothpaste. Want a clean shaft? Use Ajax. The branded cleaners you can buy are essentially derivatives of these types of products.

I could do a seminar on how to clean your shafts - having done it for twenty plus years. I used to make decent money at tournaments doing nothing but cleaning shafts and replacing tips. By hand.

So keep on Magically Erasing - the world will keep turning - somebody will repackage it - slap an eight ball image on it and sell it for $8.99. When we do that then I'll endorse it. :-)

John

onepocketchump
03-10-2005, 07:41 AM
Have you ever looked closely at the shaft after using the glass rod? All the rod does is blend the dent in. It does not raise it. It basically compresses the wood around it instead of popping the dent out. Using the rod just makes a long flat spot on the shaft.

And here you can use just a glass. But the best way to get dents out is to steam them with a damp cloth and an iron.

Or maybe a Magic Dent Puller. :-))

John

skchengdds
03-10-2005, 07:46 AM
Have you ever looked closely at the shaft after using the glass rod? All the rod does is blend the dent in. It does not raise it. It basically compresses the wood around it instead of popping the dent out. Using the rod just makes a long flat spot on the shaft.

I haven't found that to be the case. But I've only used it on tiny dents. Other people heat up the wood to lift the dents, but that's always made me nervous. Cleaning and reconditioning a shaft is definitely a labor of love though ;)

skchengdds
03-10-2005, 07:48 AM
And here you can use just a glass. But the best way to get dents out is to steam them with a damp cloth and an iron.

Or maybe a Magic Dent Puller. :-))

John

Actually, I use an old glass vacuum tube. Easier to grip ;) I've always been too nervous to place an iron on my shaft. I can't even iron a pair of pants!!

Hal
03-10-2005, 09:10 AM
Or maybe a Magic Dent Puller. :-))

No, it's Magic Dent Eraser...:)

DaveK
03-10-2005, 10:14 AM
But the best way to get dents out is to steam them with a damp cloth and an iron.

If you have a soldering iron you can apply steam to a smaller area, and they are easier to handle. Just a little tip from an old electronics hack.

Dave, who uses ME now and then for cleaning shafts and ferrules, whenever I get motivated to clean things, which is not very often ...

lunchmoney
03-10-2005, 10:25 AM
A friend of mine used the eraser to clean the light colored Irish Linen Wrap on an old Huebler. 20 years of dirt and grease disappeared and the wrap looked brand new. That was two months ago and there hasn't been any problems with fraying, separation etc.

Lunchmoney

Tbeaux
03-10-2005, 12:28 PM
And here you can use just a glass. But the best way to get dents out is to steam them with a damp cloth and an iron.

Or maybe a Magic Dent Puller. :-))

John

Dents? Sounds like a way to remove craters.

My way:

1. Using wet Q-tip-wet only the dent.
2. Using cigarette (not for u nonsmokers :D )- hold tip of cig slightly above wood (don't burn),puff up to keep cig hot, move heat around edges of dent.
3. Using 2000 grit or finer sandpaper or micromesh- wrap and sand just enough to remove the raised fibers and smooth shaft.
4. Wax with carnuba. :)

Terry

sixpack
03-10-2005, 01:13 PM
This is kinda gross but there is almost always oil right along side the nose. I use it on the sides of the tip as well.

In response to the pro Magic Eraser crowd: If you look closely you will see that the Magic Eraser actually makes grooves on the shaft and the ferrule. I don't know but I am going to assume that these grooves would be more prone to collect dirt and debris. To me the only way to smooth out the grooves would be to sand them out. Which kind of defeats the purpose.

But I am sure that cuemakers would be more than happy to to see anything that whittles shafts down faster.

John

John,

Getting the oil on the sides of the tip was okay, but when I tried to get it on the rest of the shaft, I almost poked my eye out. Any suggestions?

please advise.

Regas

buddha162
03-11-2005, 05:44 AM
Are you high?

I wasn't when I made the post, but I am now...

That's funny 'cause after I read you burnished shafts with nose oil, I thought you were high.

-Roger

onepocketchump
03-11-2005, 06:43 AM
I wasn't when I made the post, but I am now...

That's funny 'cause after I read you burnished shafts with nose oil, I thought you were high.

-Roger

It's better if you are high when you do it. :-) But hey, good enough for Jerry Franklin of Southwest Cues is good enough for me.

Actually, I really only do the tip with oil. The shafts are burinshed with ones and fives since they are the most handled bills and have enough latent oil on them to do the trick.

If facial oil is tto gross then use a drop of sewing oil.

John

Hal
03-11-2005, 07:55 PM
John,

Getting the oil on the sides of the tip was okay, but when I tried to get it on the rest of the shaft, I almost poked my eye out. Any suggestions?

please advise.

Regas
I don't care who you are, that's funny right there....