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View Full Version : Will a house cue hit the same if a cuemaker cuts it in half and puts a pin in it?


DJordan816
11-23-2012, 05:44 PM
I bought a house cue the other day for my table at home and found that i really like the way it breaks. It hits the rack hard with lots of control. Id like to use it as my breaker from now on. Obviously it wont fit in my case so i was thinking of having my local cue guy cut it in half and put a pin in it. If i do this will it still hit/break the same? Has anyone ever done this before? All input will be appreciated. Thanks.

ENGLISH!
11-23-2012, 05:51 PM
I had that done to the Brunswick cue that I learned to play with many many years ago. To answer your question, no not exactly the same but as near as could be. I doubt that a different cue could be built to hit as near to cutting the cue & putting a pin in it, but is it exactly the same? Again, the answer is no.

kvinbrwr
11-23-2012, 05:51 PM
Nope.

What you got now is a one piece cue. The only way it will ever truly be a one piece cue with one piece characteristics is as long as it is in one piece. Once you saw it in half and slam some metal in there it will vary from "very close to as good as it used to be" to "nowhere near as good as it used to be" depending on the skill if the guy who joints it and the materials he uses.

First cue Tad made me was in like 1976. When I came to pick it up he screwed it together, banged the joint against the heel of his palm while giving me the Tad Look, and announced "good as one piece" with a smile. I think that's the first time I realized that was what a great cue maker was aspiring to.

Kevin

ENGLISH!
11-23-2012, 05:54 PM
My was done with a long 5/16 x 14 pin & left wood to wood sneaky pete style. It's fairly close to the same but...not the same.

DJordan816
11-23-2012, 05:54 PM
Thanks for the insight sounds like i may turn into that guy that brings a house cue into the poolhall lol

kvinbrwr
11-23-2012, 05:57 PM
Thanks for the insight sounds like i may turn into that guy that brings a house cue into the poolhall lol

I saw Larry Hubbard and Mike Sigel pull up to The Rack in Detroit and Hubbard went in the trunk and came out with a one piece he kept in there. I was just figuring sooner or later that thing was gonna develop a heck of a bow to it.

Kevin

Dunnn51
11-23-2012, 06:15 PM
I have no scientific proof to back this but, Imma goona saya No.

Here's (maybe) why:

All those lil molecular animals living in the wood would be displaced. Some may vanish, (by the whirling tornado of a band-saw).

Now if that happened; do you think they will all move right back to where they were before they were sent camping ?!? hmmmm ? :scratchhead:


j/k sorry imma bit of a cynic tonight. :)

8onthebreak
11-23-2012, 09:14 PM
pete Ohman just made a shaft for me, you could shoot with it half way screwed together...his joint is a tank-solid as they come, 3/8x11 flat faced simple...

I would be surprised if it shot MUCH different at all with his joint. Bender and Carmeli are similar but not as fiercely tight to screw together.

I would be interested to know how it shot compared to pre-joint.

EightballJunkie
11-23-2012, 10:05 PM
As long as the cue guy doesn't monkey with the taper or add much extra mass at the joint, it should hit about the same.

A wood to wood joint using a G10 laminate pin would minimize changes to the weight and balance to almost nothing.

PC_John
11-23-2012, 11:01 PM
I just had a valley cue done last month. wood to wood joint. Very happy with it. :smile:

Chopdoc
11-23-2012, 11:03 PM
The same? Not exactly. I am guessing the closest you will get is with a wood pin. Talk to Chuck Starkey about that.




.

Pre-Flag Master
11-24-2012, 12:44 AM
As long as the cue guy doesn't monkey with the taper or add much extra mass at the joint, it should hit about the same.

A wood to wood joint using a G10 laminate pin would minimize changes to the weight and balance to almost nothing.

This is what I was thinking. And send it to a well regarded cue maker. "Local cue guys" can be very hit or miss.

Fatz

Dunnn51
11-24-2012, 12:45 AM
pete Ohman just made a shaft for me, you could shoot with it half way screwed together...his joint is a tank-solid as they come, 3/8x11 flat faced simple...

I would be surprised if it shot MUCH different at all with his joint.

Funny you mention it: Pete cut me a new shaft,.... same thing. VERY TIGHT. (in a good way). I did knock a few around with it threaded about 2/3 the way on,... seemed like no difference in direction and hit wasn't as solid as it could be, but it sent 'em where I wanted 'em. Pete's tight pin is clearly an exception!

Banks
11-24-2012, 01:18 AM
Worked pretty well for me. Hits about the same, made sure nothing else was done.

Local maker did it for me, put in what he said was the typical joint for the job.

Besides, you may as well try for the price.

cuesblues
11-24-2012, 02:19 AM
Try it and if you don't like it pull the pin, add a wood tenon, and convert it back to a one-piece.

jay helfert
11-24-2012, 06:09 AM
The same? Not exactly. I am guessing the closest you will get is with a wood pin. Talk to Chuck Starkey about that.




.


Chuck makes a two piece cue that is the closest to a one piece feel I've ever played with. Of course his joint is unique as well. The largest wood pin you've ever seen!

Mitchxout
11-24-2012, 09:31 AM
From my experience the cue won't play the same. However, Lucasi house cues are made from 2 separate pieces permantly attached and they play great. Good luck.

desi2960
11-24-2012, 09:37 AM
somewhere between 50 - 75 cues. you cannot cut a piece of wood without removing some material. so how can it be the same if some material has been removed ?
having said that i believe a flat face joint with a wood pin is as close as you can get.

alstl
11-24-2012, 10:26 AM
Here is my opinion which people will no doubt disagree with but frankly I don't care.

For a break cue I believe it will make more of a difference than a playing cue. The reason is because on the break you are hitting the ball harder most of the time and that puts more bend in the cue. The joint pin interferes with the natural bend of a one piece cue. Whether that difference is better or worse is completely subjective, but there will be a difference.

I believe a cue with a joint made by a good cuemaker will play better than most house cues because the maker can adjust the weight, balance point, diameter etc. to get the cue to play a certain way. When was the last time a guy with a one piece cue won a major tournament?

whammo57
11-24-2012, 10:37 AM
I don't believe that 9 out of 10 people could tell the difference.

I think that most people would look at the joint and say there is a difference. That doesn't really mean that there is.

I wish I had 2 house cues to try it.

Kim

Hungarian
11-24-2012, 11:03 AM
Chop the damn thing in half. Don't be the guy with the one piece cue. :)

It's just a $15 bar cue.

I bought a house cue the other day for my table at home and found that i really like the way it breaks. It hits the rack hard with lots of control. Id like to use it as my breaker from now on. Obviously it wont fit in my case so i was thinking of having my local cue guy cut it in half and put a pin in it. If i do this will it still hit/break the same? Has anyone ever done this before? All input will be appreciated. Thanks.

Blue Hog ridr
11-24-2012, 12:53 PM
Send it to Chuck. The wood pin in the shaft is your best bet.
They play fantastic.

KMRUNOUT
11-24-2012, 01:01 PM
I agree with some of the other recommendations: it won't play the same. But if your goal is for a break cue, does this matter as much? I think the feel of the "hit" is not nearly as obvious if you are smashing the rack. Don't get me wrong, of course you can feel it, I just don't think it is as significant as a playing cue. That being said, try to follow a few suggestions that might keep you *closer* to what you have now:

1) Use a big diameter pin. I think the best of all worlds is the 3/8-10 acme thread. This is not super common, but not exactly rare either. This pin is good because it allows for more contact between the screw and the wood...less small gaps in the thread. I think a regular 3/8-10 or radial pin would be the next best choices, although I might avoid radial pin on a breaker...I don't think they lock as tight as a 3/8-10...could be just me?

2) I think the most ideal would be to use a wood pin, but that seems like a bad idea on a breaker. I absolutely LOVE the hit of a G10 pin. This pin is great because it is super light, and hence won't mess with the balance, it is very strong, and it provides really nice feedback from the wood. You might be ok with a titanium pin, but I don't think it is as light as G10, and I don't think it provides the nice feedback.

3) If the cuemaker can make the joint without any collars, that would preserve the feel the best. Ideally it will be a flat faced joint, without any chamfers at the pin or around the hole in the shaft. The only downside to this is you give up a little bit in strength. If they must use collars, have them make a thin walled sleeve of phenolic, so that the actually surfaces that touch in the joint will still be mostly wood. You can also make the collar very short.

Hope this helps. I would go ahead and do it if my main purpose was to have an inexpensive break cue that I like.

KMRUNOUT

Mr. Bond
11-26-2012, 10:12 AM
imo: keep it whole and get yourself a full length cue case.:cool:

PDX
11-26-2012, 11:17 AM
I've had a few house cues made into sneakÓes, a whopping $35 bucks. The main difference is it will add roughly an ounce, piloted 5/16 x14 that is. The only real difference is they hit a little crisper and move the balance forward a we bit. I have the ferrule and tip changed at the same time, which changes the hit more IMHO.

Banks
11-26-2012, 11:36 AM
I've had a few house cues made into sneakÓes, a whopping $35 bucks. The main difference is it will add roughly an ounce, piloted 5/16 x14 that is. The only real difference is they hit a little crisper and move the balance forward a we bit. I have the ferrule and tip changed at the same time, which changes the hit more IMHO.

That bolded part is one of the reasons I wanted nothing changed when I had my cue jointed. If the hit was going to change, I didn't want to sit and wonder if it was something I had done to it outside of the joint.

For such a low cost, compared to getting a "good" cue, it's hard to justify not having this done.

I had it done and my only regret is not having done it sooner.

PDX: You gonna be around this week?