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Jodacus
11-25-2012, 06:09 PM
I remember seeing a diamond system that was very useful in kicking across the table to a ball on the short rail. The long rail being shot from used single digit numbers as reference. The long rail used for the kick was referenced by two digit numbers while the target rail (a short rail) was single digits as well.
I think the first step was subtracting one known position from the other, but I'm not sure. I probably saw this in one of the billiard magazines and foolishly blew through it at the time.

Is anyone familiar with this system (stupid question) or tell me where I can reference it?

Thank You

bbb
11-25-2012, 06:32 PM
the diamond on the short rail
are counted 2.3.4. corner pocket 5
2 closest to the rail you are banking off of
with appropriate numbers in between

cue ball numbers(origin diamond) are from the corner up 1-8

ok lets say you are at the table
the corner pocket is at your right
the rail you are facing is your aimong rail ( the rail you are banking off of)
your object ball is at the first diamond up on the short rail from the corner pocket to your right
in this system this is number 4
( remember the diamonds went 2 .3.4. from the opposite rail)

bbb
11-25-2012, 06:37 PM
i hope i havent lost you yet:D
now place the cue ball at the 3rd diamond up from the corner pocket at your right
so the target object ball is at 4
and the cue ball is at 3
4x3=12

that was easy!!!!
but where is 12 on the opposite railto aim at ???
well
the diamonds on the target/aiming rail are counted by 10s
so 2/10 past the first diamond is 12
shoot with center ball or alittle follow (NO SIDE SPIN)
and you will hit your mark:thumbup:

bbb
11-25-2012, 06:39 PM
so in sumary
target ball numberx cueball number= aiming spot on opposite rail
voila
pm me if you have questions
ive seen this described as the short rail sid system

Patrick Johnson
11-25-2012, 09:13 PM
Here's an alternative way to "measure" this kind of kick shot. I hope it's self explanatory...

249608

This measures the "equal angle" kick, so of course you'll need to adjust for the usual things that will change that (cloth stickiness, cue ball speed/spin).

pj
chgo

Bob Jewett
11-25-2012, 11:39 PM
I remember seeing a diamond system that was very useful in kicking across the table to a ball on the short rail. ...
It could be "System Sid" which works for kicking one cushion to a ball on the cushion. Here is what it is like the long way from where it first appeared in Walt Harris's Atlas: http://www.billiardsatlas.com/noframes/sid.html
Here is another explanation for both directions:
http://www.poolstudent.com/2010/01/28/system-sid-%E2%80%93-part-2-by-scott-rohleder/

Purists will note that the numbers are not quite correct on the second rail (where the object ball is) but the exact numbers are harder to remember.

bbb
11-26-2012, 09:03 AM
It could be "System Sid" which works for kicking one cushion to a ball on the cushion. Here is what it is like the long way from where it first appeared in Walt Harris's Atlas: http://www.billiardsatlas.com/noframes/sid.html
Here is another explanation for both directions:
http://www.poolstudent.com/2010/01/28/system-sid-%E2%80%93-part-2-by-scott-rohleder/

Purists will note that the numbers are not quite correct on the second rail (where the object ball is) but the exact numbers are harder to remember.

bob your links were much clearer than my verbal explanation...:thumbup:
as a wanna be purist what would be the numbers on the short rail be???

Bob Jewett
11-26-2012, 09:08 AM
... as wanna be purist what would be the numbers on the short rail be??? ...
If the numbers work well for you, don't worry about them. If they need small adjustments, make them slightly different, like 2.1 instead of 2.0. If you really, really want the geometrically correct numbers, I think it is best to work them our for yourself -- that way you are more likely to remember them. The geometry is not hard; it is just the mirror system.

scottjen26
11-26-2012, 03:25 PM
Thanks for the link up Bob!

As usual, he's exactly correct - I remember seeing the exact numbers somewhere, but I never worried about it, the numbers as is are close enough and I try to simplify things whenever possible.

I have a great memory and do well with math at the table, but not everyone does, so every time you can shave a tenth or two off a number to get it to line up evenly at a diamond without ruining the system it's worthwhile. They are really meant as guidelines anyway, adjustments will always need to be made for desired thickness of hit, speed, spin, table conditions, etc.

Scott