View Full Version : Table question...

07-08-2006, 09:08 PM
I recently noticed that on my table if I slow roll across the table the ball will roll away from the end rail. A slow roller going the long way appears to roll true. Of the three pieces of slate this the drift only occurs on the 2 pieces on the end, but not on the middle slate.
My table only has legs on the ends and is about 6 years old. My theory is that the structure is sagging ever so slightly through the center. If it is sagging, removing any spacers under the legs won't do any good I don't think. I was thinking wedges between the slate and the crossbeams where the slate seams are might help.
Any opinions about either the cause or a solution?
Thanks in advance for any help.

07-09-2006, 12:31 AM
Could be lots of causes, wood shifted in the frame, if the end slates were shimmed something could have moved etc.
Setting up a table, the frame is squared and leveled, then the middle slate. From there the end slates so they can be matched to the middle.
If you are in need of a cloth change, it couldnt happen at a better time...... :D Otherwise, I would bite the bullet and pull out the yellow pages to find a reputable table mechanic to come out and have a look see.

07-09-2006, 07:05 AM
River City has the best answer- get a qualified mechanic to take a look.
If you take a carpenters level and check your slates, there's a good chance the level will tell you the slates are good. You can't level a slate with a carpenters level. If your mechanic pulls one out, send him packing unless it's being used only to get a crude reading. A 12" or 15" Precision Level, calibrated and accurate to .0005/ft is the only way for a good leveling job.

There is some chance that the slates are warped but I think in your case since both end slates have the same problem not to worry but just to check, if you slow roll at the seam, does the ball drift to the center slate or is the drift only near the rail? Check at diamond #2. What happens? Usually they'll warp from side rail to side rail. If there are only shims on the long rail near the center slate and nothing on the short then I'd guess some of the shims compressed over time and the slates tipped toward the center slate.

Once you get this done you should be good for a long time given you don't move the table to a different position and have to deal with that settling issue particularly if it's on carpet.

07-09-2006, 10:08 AM
Is the table upstairs or downstairs? Or is the table on a concrete floor? If it is on a concrete floor your slate has slipped. Tell me if you notice a hump anywhere between the 2nd and 3rd diamonds on both ends of the table. (Or betweent he diamonds closest to the center pocket) If you do feel it then it's going to need to be planed.

But what I would do is call a good mechanic and tell them you want the table relevelled. That would be the cheapest. But mention to them if a simple relevel won't fix it you want it replaned.

If they do replane it now would be the time to think about recovering it if you feel it is needed. Also check your cushions.

By the way what kind of table is it?

07-09-2006, 08:35 PM
Who replanes tables? Are there many places that do this?

07-10-2006, 11:45 AM
Any table installer/mechanic should know how to replane a table. It's part of the setup process anyways. Or should be. If they don't know what it is then tell them you'll call someone else.

Jedi V Man
07-10-2006, 06:44 PM
You need to have your table reshimmed between the Slate support and the Slate.

It should be recovered when this is done. It doesn't "Have" to be, but it really should to be done right. Besides, you have to remove all of the rails to do this, so have it refelted and the seams resealed while your at it.

Sounds like the room/floor has settled and the weight of the slate has taken it's toll....

I would be curious what type of table it is though. I know the Slate Support on my AMF or on a Brunswick Gold Crown it stout enough that should never be an issue. But, not all tables are built to with stand what the above 2 are built to take.

The difference in a Home Table and one made for Competition/pool hall are all in what's underneath, not just the asthetic side of things...

I do all of my own table work and I took a few hours dialing in my AMF in my basement. I was so anal I used Plastic Playing cards to shim the slate to as close to perfect as one can get. Some just knock under a small peice of a Cedar shim and call it good.

07-10-2006, 10:57 PM
I think the only way to fix your problem is to re-level the frame and slates and re-tighten all the hardware. Over 6 yrs it could have sagged some in the middle or shims/wedges could have slipped or a dozen other things as well.

I believe what Smittie means by re-planing a table is after you level the frame and while you are leveling the slates you are setting them so that they are all level to each other over the length of the table.