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View Full Version : Table size for my room....


DrJ
12-24-2007, 08:13 PM
..........

plshrk22
12-24-2007, 08:29 PM
By many peoples standards 14X18 is the BARE minimum. But it will house a 9 footer. If you are going to go with Brunswick keep your eye out for a used Gold Crown or Medalist. The new Brunswicks are crap.

cuejoey
12-24-2007, 09:01 PM
I have a room that's just about exactly 14' by 18', (with one long wall half open and the others solid)...which is quoted often as the "minimum size" for a 9' table with a full size cue.

Will it really work out OK with a 9' table, or should I just consider going with an 8' table?

Thanks

PS So far I'm thinking about getting a Brunswick table...my wife likes the ones with some nice wood....
CHECK OUT THE BRUNSWICK AND OLHAUSEN WEB SITES..THEY HAVE SUGGESTIONS THERE ON ROOM SIZE..GOOD LUCK AND MERRY CHRISTMASS..:)

Franky
12-24-2007, 09:32 PM
You will have to use a gimp stick for a LOT of off the rail shots if you go with a 9' table in a 14'x18' room. If you are OK with that, then I guess its alright.

SPINDOKTOR
12-24-2007, 09:45 PM
Yes, Honestly, I think youd have more fun with an 8', youd have more room, If you have to have a 9' you might be moving some walls sooner or later, as Im in the same situation with an 8' its tight, Im renovating so I can house a 9' 18x22 Is what Im thinking.. I also use a 62" cue, so I need more room than someone with a 57" cue...


SPINDOKTOR

DelaWho???
12-25-2007, 05:13 AM
I thought you needed 13' wide for a 7' table using a 57" cue. Length wise 17' should be enough for a 7'. I'd put a 7' Diamond in there with some real tight pockets. Plenty of room for that.

Merry Christmas

Banger

9balllvr
12-25-2007, 05:18 AM
just a suggestion that i went with many years ago - check out pro 8 sized tables - you don't loose much of the 9 foot size and it gives you a few more inches to play with. i think my room at the time was around that size and it seemed to work pretty nicely.

best of luck.

jay helfert
12-25-2007, 05:26 AM
You can just squeeze a 9' in here. It's tight but workable. You may have a few tight shots with the cue ball on the rail. And may want to keep a 52" cue handy. That will work fine.

If you go with the oversize 8' table, you will experience no such problems. It's 4" less in width on the playing surface, and 8" less in length also. You will not need any short cues on any shots. This is a good table size as well. The playing surface is 46" x 92". On a 9', it is 50" x 100".

Remember if you put bar stools or other furniture in the room, that will make the space seem smaller yet. People who are sitting in the way, may have to move over when you are shooting, but that's no big deal. And a player may have to move a bar stool out of the way for their stance. Also no big deal.

Just do not put any fixed furniture in place around the table. Anything that restricts the playing area will be problematical.

Hal
12-25-2007, 05:29 AM
I think if you go with a 9 footer, you'll regret it. It's gonna be too tight.

Drew
12-25-2007, 05:41 AM
I thought you needed 13' wide for a 7' table using a 57" cue. Length wise 17' should be enough for a 7'. I'd put a 7' Diamond in there with some real tight pockets. Plenty of room for that.

Merry Christmas

Banger

I second. Diamond Smart Table is the way to go in your room. You'll have plenty of room and the best table around.

3andstop
12-25-2007, 09:58 AM
What did you mean by one wall open and one solid? Are you talking about a half wall?

iusedtoberich
12-25-2007, 10:41 AM
I posted this in the other thread but thought it was important enough to add here so the main forum can read it. I think the last paragraph is the most important, and will give you the best feel for YOUR particular stance, stroke, height, style of play, and available room:

I'm a tall player 6'-3" and I play with a 59" cue and hold the cue at the very end on many shots.

I think the standard formula of "length of cue" + "backswing" don't work well for tall players. The reason is the STANCE. My back foot is about 12" past the end of my cue when in my normal stance. So for me, the minimum room size would be "length of cue" + "distance behind cue my foot occupies".

I think when people recommend the table size for the room, they should also account for the stance and height of the player. It is not solely dependent on the length of the stick and the backswing for all players.

Another limitation will be your style of lining up the shot. For instance, I step back from the table and then "step into" the shot. This might require more space again than the standard "length of cue" + "backswing" formula.

I think the best way to find out how much space you really need is to go to the poolhall and measure out where your back foot is on shots, where you stand when you line up shots, and to see if these distances are greater than "length of cue" + "backswing".

Another thing to do is put a peice of tall cardboard reperesenting a wall next to the pooltable at the pool hall. Have someone hold it in the proper place, and see if you can still play comfortably with it there. I think a tall cardboard piece is much better than a piece of tape on the floor in the same location. It will much better represent a wall and the feeling of how much space you really have.

DrJ
12-25-2007, 12:24 PM
..........

steveharn
12-25-2007, 12:56 PM
Friend of mine told me to add 10' to the table size and that would be plenty of room. So, it sounds like an oversize 8' would be perfect for your room.

Cornerman
12-25-2007, 03:58 PM
I have a room that's just about exactly 14' by 18', (with one long wall half open and the others solid)...which is quoted often as the "minimum size" for a 9' table with a full size cue.

Will it really work out OK with a 9' table, or should I just consider going with an 8' table?

Thanks

PS So far I'm thinking about getting a Brunswick table...my wife likes the ones with some nice wood....
Without anything else in the room, it will be tight on the width even for a regular 8'. If you really want to play without interference, that is. Using a normal cue with a bumper, you'd only have about a 3" stroke on a regular 8' table, if the cueball was frozen against the cushion.

I would not recommend a 9' or even an oversized 8' (pro 8) table for your room. You'd be using a "short stick" too often for fun, but that's your decision.

Fred <~~~ thinks those "minimum size" charts should be illegal

Cornerman
12-25-2007, 04:03 PM
Friend of mine told me to add 10' to the table size and that would be plenty of room. So, it sounds like an oversize 8' would be perfect for your room.
He's wrong, slightly. It's an oversight that if you add 10 to the length, you need to add ~10' 4" to the width to get the same amount of free space at the width as the length. If you don't, you wont have "plenty of room" on the width.

The better way to do room size is to take actual measurements of the playing width and length, and add a cuestick length (real, not imaginary) plus stroke length. I like to start at 6" and then compromise from there.

Fred

Cornerman
12-25-2007, 04:04 PM
I posted this in the other thread but thought it was important enough to add here so the main forum can read it. I think the last paragraph is the most important, and will give you the best feel for YOUR particular stance, stroke, height, style of play, and available room:

I'm a tall player 6'-3" and I play with a 59" cue and hold the cue at the very end on many shots.

I think the standard formula of "length of cue" + "backswing" don't work well for tall players. The reason is the STANCE. My back foot is about 12" past the end of my cue when in my normal stance. So for me, the minimum room size would be "length of cue" + "distance behind cue my foot occupies".

I think when people recommend the table size for the room, they should also account for the stance and height of the player. It is not solely dependent on the length of the stick and the backswing for all players.

Another limitation will be your style of lining up the shot. For instance, I step back from the table and then "step into" the shot. This might require more space again than the standard "length of cue" + "backswing" formula.

I think the best way to find out how much space you really need is to go to the poolhall and measure out where your back foot is on shots, where you stand when you line up shots, and to see if these distances are greater than "length of cue" + "backswing".

Another thing to do is put a peice of tall cardboard reperesenting a wall next to the pooltable at the pool hall. Have someone hold it in the proper place, and see if you can still play comfortably with it there. I think a tall cardboard piece is much better than a piece of tape on the floor in the same location. It will much better represent a wall and the feeling of how much space you really have.
Excellent post.

Fred

TWOFORPOOL
12-25-2007, 04:12 PM
I completely agree with Jay Helfert. I have an oversized 8' (46 x 92). My room is 14' 4" x 24'. I have just enough room to use a full lenght cue all the time. Also keep in mind that an oversized 8' is perfect since you can go up to a 9' easily and down to a bar box easily in tournament play.

gobrian77
12-25-2007, 09:24 PM
I agonized over the decision to put an 8-footer or a 9-footer in my pool room, which has a width of 14'2" (length was not an issue)- I went with an 8-footer and I couldn't be happier- there is no feeling of being cramped at all, and I can take a full stroke form anywhere.:cool:

matcase
12-26-2007, 09:56 AM
I'd go with the regular 8 foot but I hate short cue sticks. If you get a decent 52 inch cue, and 8 pro would be great. Maybe you should hit up a few cue makers to build a really *****in short cue.

jay helfert
12-26-2007, 10:05 AM
I'd go with the regular 8 foot but I hate short cue sticks. If you get a decent 52 inch cue, and 8 pro would be great. Maybe you should hit up a few cue makers to build a really *****in short cue.

You'd be surprised how good you can play with a 52" or 54" cue. You can shoot all the same shots, as long as you have a good tip on it. A short (but straight) house cue works fine. Find a good house cue and cut five to six inches off the butt. You'll rarely use it if you install the pro size 8' table. If you put a 9' table in, you'll need it much more often. It becomes bothersome then to always be switching cues.