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View Full Version : What Would You Do


Neil
04-30-2008, 06:47 AM
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Jude Rosenstock
04-30-2008, 07:06 AM
Okay, don't look at this diagram as precise. This is going to change depending on how fast the table is but you want to create a split. The biggest reason why I say so is the location of the 5. If you can manage to get the 4-ball to the same rail as the 5, there is an excellent chance you're getting back to the table. In my diagram, I have the cue ball coming to rest on the head rail but you may also be able to hook your opponent behind the 9 or the 6.


http://CueTable.com/P/?@2DIdG4ENEQ1FYEO3GTxY2IFyr3PEjD2XIdG1XDxg1XbVJ4XG Ka3kEjD2kJyt2kakN2kEWf@

Beware_of_Dawg
04-30-2008, 07:11 AM
disclaimer: I don't play on 7" tables, but on a standard 9" with the layout you show, I cant see a problem stoping virtual dead behind the 9 and banking the OB off the bottom rail for a easy safe.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@2DIdG4ENEQ1FYEO3GTxY2IFyr3PEjD2XIdG1XCKl1XULg1XU cd3kEjD2kIcm2kKPr2kKgs1uCdH@

Neil
04-30-2008, 07:12 AM
.................

Jude Rosenstock
04-30-2008, 07:17 AM
Jude, I looked at that possibility, but I figured I wouldn't get the hook. Even if I got the 4 up there, I was leary of him having a decent carom off the 4 into either the 5 or the 7. Too cautious due to previous events that evening????


Yeah, I started to think about this some more. I would play this shot on a 9-footer but with the added reason that distance will be a safety. Your play on a 7-footer might be the way to go depending on how easy the pockets are.

Neil
04-30-2008, 07:21 AM
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poolplayer2093
04-30-2008, 07:21 AM
i might have banked the 4 into or near the 6 so even if he banks it he has to get by the 6 to get back up table for the 5. or if you can hit the 4 ball full enough shoot it full in the face with a stop shot and a little inside english and try to freeze him on the 9

Neil
04-30-2008, 07:27 AM
..............

sde
04-30-2008, 07:49 AM
Yeah, I started to think about this some more. I would play this shot on a 9-footer but with the added reason that distance will be a safety. Your play on a 7-footer might be the way to go depending on how easy the pockets are.

Not tight but extremely deep shelf.


65977




65978

Beware_of_Dawg
04-30-2008, 07:50 AM
i might have banked the 4 into or near the 6 if you can hit the 4 ball full enough shoot it full in the face with a stop shot and a little inside english and try to freeze him on the 9

good idea.

sometimes I wonder if my posts even show up. lol.

Neil
04-30-2008, 08:11 AM
..............

Jude Rosenstock
04-30-2008, 08:15 AM
Not tight but extremely deep shelf.







65978


Then I would probably stick with my original plan and play safe.

Beware_of_Dawg
04-30-2008, 09:24 AM
Did you read post #4?

oh, I thought i did. I didn't see my name.

with no real grasp of the speed of the table, I would think that the stop shot directly behind the 9 would be the safest route. regardless of table speed if you can hit that ball full front you should be able to stop it cold. personally I would be much more aprehensive to take the bank you took and trying to put enough stuff on it to come back full table... talk about risky... that's a "all in" move for sure. good execution but I gotta like my odds MUCH better on an unfamiliar playing surface just checking the ball up behind the 9...

Andrew Manning
04-30-2008, 09:52 AM
regardless of table speed if you can hit that ball full front you should be able to stop it cold.

If you hit the ball full, you're not banking it the right direction for your safety. In order to get the 4 where you want it, you have to cut it, and then you can't hold the CB where you want it.

-Andrew

Beware_of_Dawg
04-30-2008, 02:24 PM
"full" = improper term usage by me. looks like 3/4ish as shown in my diagram.

Snapshot9
04-30-2008, 02:41 PM
I think Jude is doing some wishful thinking, because I think the 4 would come off the first rail a lot straighter than his diagram considering the backcut and english, but I had the same idea but doing it a different way.

I would bank like you did only a lot straighter and for the 4 to be on the foot end rail between the 5 and 7 and try to put the cue ball behind the 9 ball on the uptable end rail.

Either way I don't like the shot.

The other shot is too slide the 4 off the uptable end rail over behind the 6, and bring the cue ball around 2 rails back down towards the 5.

And I still don't like it.

Jude Rosenstock
04-30-2008, 02:43 PM
I think Jude is doing some wishful thinking, because I think the 4 would come off the first rail a lot straighter than his diagram considering the backcut and english, but I had the same idea but doing it a different way.

I would bank like you did only a lot straighter and for the 4 to be on the foot end rail between the 5 and 7 and try to put the cue ball behind the 9 ball on the uptable end rail.

Either way I don't like the shot.

The other shot is too slide the 4 off the uptable end rail over behind the 6, and bring the cue ball around 2 rails back down towards the 5.

And I still don't like it.

Well, so long as I hit the side-rail and leave the 4 on the short-rail near the 5, I think I'm okay assuming I can keep the cue ball where I diagrammed.

Patrick Johnson
04-30-2008, 04:24 PM
Another safety possibility:

http://CueTable.com/P/?@2DIdG4ENEQ1FYEO3GTxY2IFyr3PEjD2XIdG1XLhl1XbQy1Xa Kn3kEjD2kKXt6kMUI2kUGl2kbAd3kKje@

pj
chgo

av84fun
04-30-2008, 04:36 PM
All's well that ends well but you violated the standard rule of choosing between shooting and ducking.

You had at least an 80% chance of leaving your opponent either hooked or VERY tough. On the other hand, unless you are a killer banks player, that shot was about a 20-30% proposition.

Playing safe was clearly the choice...especially with a 1-0 lead.

Regards,
Jim

TX Poolnut
04-30-2008, 04:44 PM
IMO, Judes' idea is best. It was what immediately came to mind before I scrolled down. :)