Anniversary Rails

[trentfromtoledo]

Case in point, I just had my table re-assembled last Friday and the mechanics replaced the Monarch's on my GC-1 with SuperSpeeds without modifying the sub assembly.

Plays beautifully.

Looks great.

AWESOME TABLE! I can say I can tell the difference between a GC6 /Blue Label Diamond vs this type of set up, but, not enough to warrant most guys spending the extra money. Having THE RIGHT PERSON install the cushions that is aware of the issue & that has a ton of experience mounting superspeeds on these older tables that took the monarchs, is 100% the best way to go without subrail mod. To high and the ball bites, too low and it hops or LEAPS like SKEEBALL in some cases! Just right will work. Perfect no, acceptable yes. Want any better and simply just pay for the subrail mod...

TFT

 

[Chip Roberson]

Couple of questions I might add if possible, The pocket facings after they are cut to size and fitted properly,,should the edges be feathered any
or just left square on the edges? Next Question I'm wondering about spraying some solvent down the hollow section of the rubber cushion, while it is still glued to the wood ,with tape on the other end to keep the solvent from running out and then let it sit for 24 hours , and let the solvent weaken the hold of the glue to the wood. The solvent would evaporate quickly afterwards ,,just noodling and making sure I don't damage the wood when removing 70 old rubber.

 

[bradsh98]

Couple of questions I might add if possible, The pocket facings after they are cut to size and fitted properly,,should the edges be feathered any
or just left square on the edges? Next Question I'm wondering about spraying some solvent down the hollow section of the rubber cushion, while it is still glued to the wood ,with tape on the other end to keep the solvent from running out and then let it sit for 24 hours , and let the solvent weaken the hold of the glue to the wood. The solvent would evaporate quickly afterwards ,,just noodling and making sure I don't damage the wood when removing 70 old rubber.

Don't use solvent.. Sounds like a mess, and is really unnecessary. Take your time, be careful. If you pull away a bit of wood, you can try to glue it back down. Otherwise, just fill it with Bondo and sand it flush. Fresh contact cement should reactivate the old stuff.

Your facings should match the profile of the rubber.

 

[Chip Roberson]

Thanks for taking your time to the giving of a reply along with the picture added. Looking forward to making all this come together, One thing I didn't count on , My Wife now wants a new floor under my table ooouuuuch !!!!

 

[bradsh98]

Thanks for taking your time to the giving of a reply along with the picture added. Looking forward to making all this come together, One thing I didn't count on , My Wife now want a new floor under my table ooouuuuch !!!!

Well, now is the time to replace it... The wife, not the floor.
Ha! Just kidding.

Good luck with the project. I'm happy to help.

 

[Chip Roberson]

Going on 34 years now, and I'm turned to the dark side of the force now, it was gradual mind you , but She assured me , it was the prudent
thing to do. Another thought has hit me. The place on my slate , where the spot is. That is worn over the years,,is there
a glazing compound that is durable enough to make the fix and stop the warble that comes from not addressing it.

 

[mike807]

I wish someone could do a comparison of two of these tables with the subrail mod and without. I'm an (amateur in comparison to guys around here) table mechanic and I own a Black Crown 1. I have new k55 rubber (superspeed) and new cloth (860HR) for my table and I'm planning on extending the subrails to make the pockets 4.5" which I can do easily.. but what I can't easily do is modify the angle along the entire rail. I mean, it's simple enough on a table saw I guess but nobody seems to agree on anything in regards to the angle it should be.

Every thread I see consists of mechanics arguing both sides.

Help.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[Chip Roberson]

Table is torn down now. The pocket facings turned to dust when removing them from the rail. I have the new K55 rubber and will start working on the install for them next week. The old rubber came off well, but there are a couple of small spots that I will bondo over where some wood came off with the cushions..The ends of the cushions were not smooth in any way after removing the facings. The were very rough and not staright , more or less concave . Will see how all this turns out in the next few weeks, after the wife installs a new floor while I'm at work. Hmmm wondering
how that will work out also. Any input on what to use on the spot area of the slate to glaze it smooth is still helpful,,is Bondo the only way to go?
Thanks All

 

[jviss]

Don't use solvent.. Sounds like a mess, and is really unnecessary. Take your time, be careful. If you pull away a bit of wood, you can try to glue it back down. Otherwise, just fill it with Bondo and sand it flush. Fresh contact cement should reactivate the old stuff.

Your facings should match the profile of the rubber.

View attachment 584212

@bradsh98 Geoff, that looks perfect! How did you get the facings to so closely match the cushion profile? I had read that some folks use a belt sander like the Makita 9031 1-1/8x21, so in anticipation of doing mine I bought the Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight) 1/2x18 sander. If you used such a sander I'd love to know what grit you used. Also, I notice the cushion is "pinker" in the section that matches what looks like a subrail extension; did you mask the cushion past this area?

Thanks,

jv

 

[bradsh98]

@bradsh98 Geoff, that looks perfect! How did you get the facings to so closely match the cushion profile? I had read that some folks use a belt sander like the Makita 9031 1-1/8x21, so in anticipation of doing mine I bought the Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight) 1/2x18 sander. If you used such a sander I'd love to know what grit you used. Also, I notice the cushion is "pinker" in the section that matches what looks like a subrail extension; did you mask the cushion past this area?

Thanks,

jv

I used the Harbor Freight sander for many years. I switched to the Makita, but it took some getting used to.

If you trim the facings close to the rubber, 120 grit works well. Otherwise, 80 grit is better, as it's quicker. Just have to be careful. 240 grit will be the easiest to use, and will give the nicest results. But, it's slow-going.

The lighter pink sections are from sanding. You dont want to remove material, but to get the finish flush, you will need to just touch the cushion.

 

[jviss]

I used the Harbor Freight sander for many years. I switched to the Makita, but it took some getting used to.

If you trim the facings close to the rubber, 120 grit works well. Otherwise, 80 grit is better, as it's quicker. Just have to be careful. 240 grit will be the easiest to use, and will give the nicest results. But, it's slow-going.

The lighter pink sections are from sanding. You dont want to remove material, but to get the finish flush, you will need to just touch the cushion.

Thanks very much.

 

[bradsh98]

Table is torn down now. The pocket facings turned to dust when removing them from the rail. I have the new K55 rubber and will start working on the install for them next week. The old rubber came off well, but there are a couple of small spots that I will bondo over where some wood came off with the cushions..The ends of the cushions were not smooth in any way after removing the facings. The were very rough and not staright , more or less concave . Will see how all this turns out in the next few weeks, after the wife installs a new floor while I'm at work. Hmmm wondering
how that will work out also. Any input on what to use on the spot area of the slate to glaze it smooth is still helpful,,is Bondo the only way to go?
Thanks All

Bondo is probably the best, if the slate is actually worn down. Often times, the issues are in the cloth itself, not the slate.

 

[Chip Roberson]

Don't use solvent.. Sounds like a mess, and is really unnecessary. Take your time, be careful. If you pull away a bit of wood, you can try to glue it back down. Otherwise, just fill it with Bondo and sand it flush. Fresh contact cement should reactivate the old stuff.

Your facings should match the profile of the rubber.

View attachment 584212

Mr. Bradshaw, just noticed something in your pic, that I needed to ask you about. The small line showing at the top of the rail , being above the cushion, should my rail installation mimic that and have the rail down that far ? I mocked up my new rails with tape and by using my Starrett mic they measured the same height as what the old rubber did , on where the ball come in contact with the rail,,K55 rails are what I purchased , and just was wondering again Thank you Sir !

 

[bradsh98]

Mr. Bradshaw, just noticed something in your pic, that I needed to ask you about. The small line showing at the top of the rail , being above the cushion, should my rail installation mimic that and have the rail down that far ? I mocked up my new rails with tape and by using my Starrett mic they measured the same height as what the old rubber did , on where the ball come in contact with the rail,,K55 rails are what I purchased , and just was wondering again Thank you Sir !

I think what you are referencing is the formica. The height of the formica is about 1/16" higher than the top of the sub-rail.

 

[Chip Roberson]

Have installed the new cushions on only one of the rails for the time being and all has worked out well. Question, there was just a small amount
of wood pull out on one of the rails and when heading out to restock on Bondo, I have found there is a new type out that is called High Bond and
is purposeful for wood. Thought about it but then the regular Bondo is what everyone has mentioned before , just wondering if anyone here
has worked with the new stuff and if so, did it do the job?