Oh ok... my bad. I misunderstood
I, without question in my mind, alter grip pressure based on shot requirements. Not during the shot, but determined during practice stokes. Not going to say it provides any benefit though. There's a sizeable difference in my grip between say a long bomb with tons of action, versus a slow roll that needs to move only a handful of inches.
Building a grip can involve assembling insights from various sources.
thanks for the snippets
Man this guy has a lot of videos...lol. I went hunting for the particular one noted above... Is this it...?
His views are his and like you said we should respect for sharing. The first video was the one that got my attention. Memory isn’t what it used to be since he says the back two fingers. As my post revealed I modified his method. My thumb and forefinger are very passive on these long shots, but I trigger my center finger forward in the slight flex hold. He talks about it being a roll it in grip but then drives his cue ball off multiple rails. He also advises using a small amount of downward pressure on some rail shots to stabilize the cue. Both the long rail shot and the nearer one need that sense of driving through the ball on a slight inclined plane. Contact through the ball will always determine results.
If thinking "this finger, those fingers" for different kinds of shots causes you to play them better, I think it's just because you are consciously setting up for the different kinds of shots and not because of different mechanics. I don't think any particular grip is better/worse for a particular kind of spin. I think it is a mistake for players to go down that path.
Does he ever mention why draw bridge lengths should be short? Is it to allow a downward angle on the cue?
If you back up the video and watch the whole thing the finger position is put into context along with the bridge length. I understand what he's getting at but I don't know why any of this matters. Of course, I'm just a ham and egg player looking for inspiration.
probly right. doubt that'll stop em.
to set up for a longer follow-through.
Which is necessary why? I'm not questioning whether he is right or not. I just learn better when I know why something is supposed to work. If the ultimate reason is to achiever higher cue velocity on contact, or to be accelerating during contact, etc. that is the important thing and might be achieved different ways.
It doesn't.
He’s trying to describe in words his experience for each stroke. What I got, listening carefully, was that all his stroke lengths are about the same length.
idk, but one thing i have figured out. if i try to micromanage this stuff when im down, i can spectacularly miscue no matter the venue
That's not the only odd thing Freddy had to say about grips - IIRC he also thought grip pressure should be customized for different banks.
I got that sense in his descriptions too. He talked about stopping the stroke and that requires either a tightening or running out of space for the cue hand. His draw description was also of a firmer grip.
Dan White...Perhaps the only instructors you know haven't done the grip justice, but that's certainly not the case among the best instructors. I teach five ways to train your hand...one of them will work for all players. Most important issue is not to clench the cuestick as you accelerate the cue through the CB, rather than how you actually hold on to it. Cocked wrist is a recipe for mistakes. Anybody watching Brandon's videos should watch them with a grain of salt. He really is a laughing stock among many of the top instructors.
