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CrossBone Cue 07-06-2014 09:29 AM

Logan Lathe Model 200 Project
My new project
Logan Lathe Model 200, 1943 was when it was made. My Grandfather got a hold of it in the 50's. It is 24" between centers.
I got it home last night. 520 pounds of back breaking labor. It has been setting for a long time. 30 years ago I made a hickory bat on this lathe. I was the last one to use it. My Papaw past away 20 years ago and it is important for me to restore this lathe. It has been in his basement until yesterday. 6 of us dug it out and now it is in the middle of my shop.
The lathe was oiled and stored fairly well, the pan does have rust and a hole. I thought about changing the length to use as a full size lathe, but not sure if that is even possible. I don't have hardly any tooling for it so will need about everything there is. It works so not sure where to start. I have the legs off now and figured I would start by sanding it down, finding a pan (or new size pan and bed with screw). I have to get new belts, chuck. Chuck is 1 1/2 x 8
Also had questions and need your all help.
1) is it possible to change the gear section to make the hole large enough to slide in a butt, it is .81 now.
2) is it possible to change bed length to over 30" with new screw bar and bed
3) make a router attachment and use it to cut down blank forearm squares to roundWinner
4) or should I clean it up, make it work right, add a new chuck and leave it like it is now,winner

So this is what I am needing
1 1/2 x 8 self centering chuck
Steady Rest with bearing on the inside
tools for tool post(and new tool post set up)
attachment to hold a router for turning down foreamrs and handles

Papaw would probably build it to suit his needs.

Thanks for any input
Also if any one has parts or could at least tell me what I may need as far as tooling goes.










JoeyInCali 07-06-2014 11:02 AM

1. No. You'd have nothing left if you bore the spindle.
2. Looks like a no too since the longer bed for that model is only 7" longer.

That'd be good for tips, forearm, core and handle tapering.
If you have the steady rest and you can make collets to fit a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 Id bearing, you can more stuff.

That lid cover will eventually come down on your hand hard. I had a 957 and so did my mentor. That thing is not OSHA approved.

CrossBone Cue 07-06-2014 12:33 PM

I read your earlier post on the lid, already have it off for now. I have a high tower lathe so I am good on the tips, shafts. Guess I will figure out a router bracket to cut down forearms. I put it back together this morning and fired it up, Still works perfect. I took off the motor and put it in the over for an hour on 100 degrees to remove any moisture.
Anyone have any tooling that would fit this one or is there a way to convert it to a more modern tooling set up? also need a chuck, I went on logan actuators website and found some stuff, but didn't know if anyone on here had anything. Belts are shot for sure.

SwissChris 07-06-2014 01:37 PM

Nice piece of machinery great for coring and some other stuff


JoeyInCali 07-06-2014 06:53 PM


Originally Posted by SwissChris (Post 4798462)
Nice piece of machinery great for coring and some other stuff


You can't core when the spindle hole is less than an 1".

I have a bxa100 tool set that would fit that.

newguy99 07-06-2014 07:34 PM

Plaza machinery

DaveK 07-07-2014 12:16 PM

Over the years Scott Logan has been a tremendous contributer to the home-shop-machinist world and they continue to support their old equipment as best they can. Check out the site.

Good luck with your "new" lathe.

<edit ... oops, didn't read the full OP ... I see you know of the Logan Actuator site ... carry on :o >


CrossBone Cue 07-07-2014 07:40 PM

I was told I could change the tail stock and head stock to 11" to get a bigger bore hole. Not sure if it will work, waiting on Mr. Logan to call me back.

SwissChris 07-07-2014 07:51 PM


Originally Posted by JoeyInCali (Post 4798742)
You can't core when the spindle hole is less than an 1".

I have a bxa100 tool set that would fit that.

Did not know that ......would it not work with a steady rest ??.????

CrossBone Cue 07-09-2014 04:50 PM

I talked to Scott Logan today and he said I can't change it over

ELBeau 07-09-2014 05:41 PM


Originally Posted by SwissChris (Post 4799993)
Did not know that ......would it not work with a steady rest ??.????

24" between centers and the small bore hole determines that.
13" piece of wood +14" gun drill > bed length.

ELBeau 07-09-2014 05:59 PM

3 Attachment(s)
If all you're going to do is turn stuff round, then you can do that with a minimum of additional parts.

Find a dead center that matches the inside taper of your spindle and bypass the chuck completely. That, or true up a dead center in the chuck you already have and be done with it. No need to ever take it out.

You can also make a dedicated router mount that secures directly to the carriage and bypass the toolpost.

Rick Geschrey of Esoteric cues posted some photos of his direct-mount router setup a while back, as well as photos showing a dead center mounted in the headstock spindle taper (see below).

No need for a steady rest- just mount it between centers (headstock and tailstock).

Best of luck with your project.

CrossBone Cue 07-23-2014 07:25 PM

I soaked all the bolts for a couple of weeks, got it all broke down, Had one gear that was missing a tooth, no big deal because I am from the south. Also had one of the smooth drive gears that has a chunk missing on the side wall, going to order both gears. Got the base stripped and repainted, put it back together tonight. Went with a two tone, hammer black and hammer silver. Figure if I am going to be doing fancy cues I might as well have a sharp lathe.






conetip 07-24-2014 03:23 AM

That is looking a lot better now.
I like the style of quite a lot of earlier machine tools.

desi2960 07-24-2014 07:10 AM

love the old lathe
best of luck with it, and dont be showing any more photos of a CLEAN FLOOR, you are making the rest of us look bad.

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