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-   -   Purchased cue blank, how do I store it? (https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=450531)

Ģśţāṿ 04-03-2017 04:26 PM

Purchased cue blank, how do I store it?
 
The title pretty much says it all. I purchased a beautiful cue blank at SBE this past weekend. While I'm figuring out exactly what I want done to it and who will build it, I would like to know know the best way to store it. Is it best to hang it, lay it on a flat table frequently rotating it, or some other way?

Thanks!

cafrank 04-03-2017 05:37 PM

I would hang it personally


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KJ Cues 04-03-2017 05:57 PM

Being a blank, we would assume that the maker of the blank used woods of proper moisture content.
If it is bare wood that hasn't been sealed, seal it, particularly the ends.
Hang it somewhere that has stable humidity. That's all there is to it until you're ready to use it.

Ģśţāṿ 04-03-2017 06:35 PM

It is currently bare wood. What would an ideal product to seal it with. Thanks for your help!

ideologist 04-03-2017 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ģśţāṿ (Post 5851071)
It is currently bare wood. What would an ideal product to seal it with. Thanks for your help!

Anchorseal or wax on the ends

Michael Webb 04-03-2017 10:12 PM

I'm always against hanging wood in a non controlled enviroment. It's a tough call to me.

Yotehntr 04-03-2017 10:38 PM

Need to see some pics... after seeing them I may be willing to store it for you http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...entwhistle.gif

Thomas Wayne 04-04-2017 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yotehntr (Post 5851226)
Need to see some pics... after seeing them I may be willing to store it for you http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...entwhistle.gif

Hanging is fine, as is standing it perfectly upright. Regardless of previous advice, and assuming it is sufficiently oversize, do NOT seal it. You want it to do as much moving around ("warping") as it can while it's still big enough to re-center and re-cut. If you seal it up tight it's more likely to move AFTER the next cut or two - which may mean it's now too skinny to correct the centering properly.

Keeping a cue straight - butt OR shaft - is all about running a race between the wood wanting to move and the cuemaker cutting it down to size. The wood's goal is to contort into the shape it where it's most comfortable, and the cuemaker's goal is to engineer a "tie" right at the finish line of this race. In other words, the cuemaker wants to be taking his final light passes on the butt / shaft just at the same time that the wood has found it's most comfortable, relaxed state.

If you seal it up in its oversized condition you will inhibit the natural aging process, and during the next cut-down it will experience a greater shock at suddenly being exposed to ambient humidity. With butts this is less dramatic, of course, due to the shorter sections and the splicing techniques, but it still can be a factor.

If this advice runs counter to what other cuemakers have told you, consider this: top makers of fine furniture - I'm talking about the Tage Frids and Sam Maloofs of the world - would NEVER seal up various components during the build process. Wood is going to move, and it's impossible to prevent that natural occurrence. By allowing it to do all it's moving DURING the build process (instead of sealing it up tight until the very last cut) you can manipulate the process such that the wood is pretty much done moving right about the time you're done taking the last few finish cuts.

You're safe giving it a light coat of shellac or solvent-based sanding sealer to keep dust and crud out of the pores - both allow a fairly free flow of humidity into and out of wood, But applying Anchorseal, which is meant primarily for freshly cut wet or 'green' wood would be a mistake - as would wax, IMO.

TW


BarenbruggeCues 04-04-2017 08:43 AM

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Thanks for saving me the typing time.
I've had this very discussion with several builders after my shaft dipping experiment and decided it was not only a waste of time and money, but counter productive in the end goal I am trying achieve.
I was going to suggest a rattle can of Bullseye but you did that also. If you stand it on end in the house, do not use any outside walls for a prop. A minimal angle to keep it from falling over is all that is required.
Almost forgot.....once a month you must look at, give it a kiss and hug and tell it you haven't forgotten about it. ;)

ideologist 04-04-2017 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomas Wayne (Post 5851414)


You're safe giving it a light coat of shellac or solvent-based sanding sealer to keep dust and crud out of the pores - both allow a fairly free flow of humidity into and out of wood, But applying Anchorseal, which is meant primarily for freshly cut wet or 'green' wood would be a mistake - as would wax, IMO.

TW



I was figuring just the ends, and my post is dumb enough to not communicate that.

I've seen ebony split at the ends when moving across the United States, that's why I wax it up now on the ends

JoeyInCali 04-04-2017 10:46 AM

I am now confused what a cue blank is.

pdcue 04-04-2017 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ideologist (Post 5851472)
I was figuring just the ends, and my post is dumb enough to not communicate that.

I've seen ebony split at the ends when moving across the United States, that's why I wax it up now on the ends

I also wax the ends of ebony - but, ebony is an entirely different animal - IMHO

Dale

JoeyInCali 04-04-2017 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdcue (Post 5851590)
I also wax the ends of ebony - but, ebony is an entirely different animal - IMHO

Dale

You wax your ebony butt?
Barabeem!:D

I saw a friend's high end ebony crack on his display rack years ago. He didn't even notice it.
The maker replaced the cue.

BarenbruggeCues 04-04-2017 02:34 PM

I guess I'll be the naysayer but the only time I ever leave wax or anchor seal on ebony is before I start working it. Only 2 reasons I can think of that ebony will have or develop butt crack :rolleyes:........
worked before completely dry....
too much heat when worked.....
I want my ebony (and why not every other wood) to be exposed during the build. That way I know what I'm dealing with.
Disclaimer.....my shop does not have the swings of hi to lo RH and hot to cold.

JoeyInCali 04-04-2017 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarenbruggeCues (Post 5851729)
I guess I'll be the naysayer but the only time I ever leave wax or anchor seal on ebony is before I start working it. Only 2 reasons I can think of that ebony will have or develop butt crack :rolleyes:........
worked before completely dry....
too much heat when worked.....
I want my ebony (and why not every other wood) to be exposed during the build. That way I know what I'm dealing with.
Disclaimer.....my shop does not have the swings of hi to lo RH and hot to cold.

Sissy!!!!!


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