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RiverCity 01-08-2007 11:48 PM

How to retip cues...... without a lathe
 
Here is a step by step set of instructions on how to retip your own cues. It requires a minimal investment in tools, that pays for itself in the first 10-12 tips you replace. This took years to learn and perfect. I tried lots of different glues, clamps, gizmos etc etc etc..... But it all comes down to what I'm about to show you. Its the easiest, most cost effective way I know how to retip cues. Here is a retipping job I just did on a Judd sneaky pete.
First things first...... the tools
A Porper Big Shaver (you can use a mushroom grazer.... but these work so much better), a rapid cue top sander (for getting the top of the ferrule flat), superglue gel (I prefer Loctite brand), metal trimmer for roughing the top of the tip only, a couple of post it notes for protecting your cue shaft from the rapid cuetop sanders clamp, the new tip, a razor knife, and assorted autobody sandpapers (600 grit to 2000)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8a11ffc5_c.jpg
This was a cue I just bought, the tip it came with was loose and not looking all that great. So take the razor knife and cut it off. Leave between 1/32" and 1/16" of the old tip for safety reasons.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e8b21cc4_c.jpg
Next, trim and scrape some more of the old tip off until you can see some of the ferrule.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ffe585cb_c.jpg
Use the post-it notes to wrap the shaft as shown. Use a couple or 3. It protects from the sanders clamp.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...80071385_c.jpg
Clamped.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...64eca408_c.jpg
Use the top sander as per instructions..... I like to use the outer hole first, then the inner for a "cleanup pass". Be careful here, the sander works quickly, stop after all the old tip and glue are gone. No need to go deeper.
Sometimes with softer ferrule materials, you will have "hairs" of plastic hanging off the edge. Very lightly knock them off with 600 grit and almost no pressure.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2e1d95be_c.jpg
Next its time to prep the tip, I use the sander for this also. Its metal plate with the sandpaper makes for a nice flat surface to sand the back of the tip. Like the ferrule....... no need to go crazy here. I stop right after all the "sealer" is gone. You are making sure the tip is flat and ready for glue only. Also before I forget about it, do not touch the newly prepped tip or ferrule.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a6b81a20_c.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2af51d32_c.jpg
Now its time to glue. I start lightly on the tip. Let the glue soak in, rub it around with the applicator on the glue bottle. Then put a little bit more on. its like laying tile, you don't want or need complete coverage. Use the bottles applicator like a notched trowel and spread and "notch" the glue. Same thing on the ferrule. If you don't use enough the tip will not adhere. If you use too much, it will ooze out and make a mess. If you use just the right amount..... it will barely form a bead between the tip and ferrule when you put the tip on and seat it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d6b7179a_c.jpg
Center the tip by eye (always use a tip bigger than the diameter of your ferrule) And lightly apply pressure with your finger tip for one to two minutes.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d83e983e_c.jpg
to be continued......

RiverCity 01-08-2007 11:50 PM

Prop the cue against something, so the shaft is vertical, and nothing is touching the tip. Wait 15 -20 minutes (you can wait less time, or more time...... but I like the 15 minute rule. Its usually more than needed, and I'm in no big hurry) Afterwards, you have a tip on the shaft ready for trimming.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...98ac865c_c.jpg
The Big Shaver comes with directions, I will add this. Go slow, don't try to trim the tip in one pass. Make several cuts, doing just a little bit at a time.
Remember to leave a little excess material for the next step. If you don't, the finished tip wont look as good.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...21079c1e_c.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...eb4a7e54_c.jpg
The next step is sanding the tip and blending it into the ferrule. If you did not leave enough, you will have to sand too much and you risk damaging the ferrule. If you left too much, it will just take you longer. With some experience, you will figure out how much you need to leave to get the tip sanded well, without having to sand the ferrule significantly. I start with 600-800 grit and roll the tip between paper that I'm holding like I am burnishing the tip. Go slow, don't build up excess heat in this step. Layered tips de-laminate, and single layer tips can cook.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fe8fe924_c.jpg
Work your way up to 1500 or so grit.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...21cc6e1e_c.jpg
Then you are ready to burnish. I personally use a scrap of leather that I just realized I did not photo....... :D
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...bb824a0d_c.jpg
After burnishing, you are ready to start roughing the tip to shape with the metal/sandpaper trimmer.(the top only with this tool, never use it on the side of a tip)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b40aef62_c.jpg
Then you can finish shaping it with your preferred tool. I like a dime shaped willard.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2fc0ee3d_c.jpg
After that, you are done and ready to chalk up and play!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4caa55a2_c.jpg

I hope this helps those who needed a leg up on retipping your own cues. If you want to practice, buy some cheap tips and go to a pub and offer to retip their cues for a very small cost, or even free.
Its not difficult, just take your time, and have some patience. The results are worth it!
Chuck

chilli66 01-09-2007 12:26 AM

Excellent stuff! Very informative. I retipped my cue on New Year's Eve but I didn't have the sander or trimmer so it was a fairly time consuming job! I think I'll have to invest in those tools for the future.

Rep for your efforts, sir!

rackem 01-09-2007 12:44 AM

Very informative post. How does one determine which is the glue side of a tip? If there is writing should it always face out on all tips?

Deadon 01-09-2007 01:04 AM

Would humbly disagree with any sanding of the ferrule. Doing so creates a bevel (for lack of a better word) on the end of the ferrule, especially after several tips, and it soon ends up with a repair guy for correction. Ask them, new ferrule or completely taper the ferrule you have. Or you can play with it and it just looks funny. Won't affect play, but will devalue your cue.

After the tip is applied and dried. Take a smooth block of wood and hold the shaft vertically tip down on the wood. Use a razor blade or a good utility bland and trim down from the ferrule to end of the tip. Using the edge of the ferrul as a guide. Take small pieces and rotate the shaft as you cue through. Whe you get finish, if you want a smoother edge, mask the ferrule and use a little 400 on just the tip. Then burnish. Always liked Pepsi, the sugar made a nice color and seal on the edge. There are many devices to make your tip shape. Pick the one that works best for you and the curvature you like

RiverCity 01-09-2007 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rackem
Very informative post. How does one determine which is the glue side of a tip? If there is writing should it always face out on all tips?

Most tips are marked or pre shaped (domed). If you have doubts about your prefered tip, contact the tips manufacturer to make sure.
Chuck

RiverCity 01-09-2007 01:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deadon
Would humbly disagree with any sanding of the ferrule. Doing so creates a bevel (for lack of a better word) on the end of the ferrule, especially after several tips, and it soon ends up with a repair guy for correction. Ask them, new ferrule or completely taper the ferrule you have. Or you can play with it and it just looks funny. Won't affect play, but will devalue your cue.

Then you would really hate to see cuemakers blending a ferrule to a shaft and a tip to the ferrule wouldnt you? :D
Again, Im talking about paper no coarser than 600, I personally dont like to go lower than 800. Grits that high do not remove a significant amout of material at hand sanding speeds. The material I remove from the ferrule is around .001 off the diameter (thats about a third of the diameter of a human hair). 99% of the sanding is focused on the leather tip, not the ferrule.
Chuck

acedotcom 01-09-2007 04:42 AM

Thanks for the post. I had already convinced myself that it was worth paying somebody ten bucks to change tips for me. Now, I'm tempted to try it again. Anyway, for those without a clue or those with just half a clue, this thread will become the definitive how-to tutorial. :)

The Piper 01-09-2007 05:14 AM

Awesome how to! Kudos.

Wylie 01-09-2007 05:31 AM

I will say that Sybert's has an entire deluxe retipping kit for about $60. Very nice kit and very similar to your instructions. it makes it very easy to do and they have downloadable step-by-step video instructions. I've done 3 tips so far with ZERO problems what so ever. And they have been profesional looking installs. That was one of the best pool investments I have made.

macguy 01-09-2007 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RiverCity
Then you would really hate to see cuemakers blending a ferrule to a shaft and a tip to the ferrule wouldnt you? :D
Again, Im talking about paper no coarser than 600, I personally dont like to go lower than 800. Grits that high do not remove a significant amout of material at hand sanding speeds. The material I remove from the ferrule is around .001 off the diameter (thats about a third of the diameter of a human hair). 99% of the sanding is focused on the leather tip, not the ferrule.
Chuck

That may not seem like much but by the 10th tip replacement you have taken off 1/4 mm.

Charlie Edwards 01-09-2007 05:46 AM

River City...your method is the best. Before I got a lathe I did tips almost exactly the way you explained. Worked great! One small thing I'd like to add is when it comes to the final shaping of the tip, and not having access to a lathe, I found the best shaping tool was Trogdon's shaper. http://trogdoncues.com/tip_shaper.htm It's very quick, easy, and accurate.

Inzombiac 01-09-2007 05:46 AM

STICKY THIS DANGIT lol!

Great work! Its things like this that layman like me need. I've yet to do any "home repair" of my gear but I've always liked to be more hands on with any kinds of fixes instead of taking it to someone. And now the knowledge is passed!

jgpool 01-09-2007 06:00 AM

Tips
 
The hint about the sticky is what I needed! Thanks. Rep for you!!

StevenPWaldon 01-09-2007 06:15 AM

I think he meant .001 mm, not .001 inches -- in which case, I don't think .01 mm would be of notice to anyone.

800 grit sandpaper on a ferrule is too fine to take off .001 inches with a quick hand sanding job.

Quote:

Originally Posted by macguy
That may not seem like much but by the 10th tip replacement you have taken off 1/4 mm.


catscradle 01-09-2007 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inzombiac
STICKY THIS DANGIT lol!

Great work! Its things like this that layman like me need. I've yet to do any "home repair" of my gear but I've always liked to be more hands on with any kinds of fixes instead of taking it to someone. And now the knowledge is passed!

I would suggest practicing on a shaft you don't particularly care about or an old house cue until you know exactly what you're doing. I have done my own tips on less expensive cues and do a pretty good job, but I maintain it is a rare person who does as good or better job by hand than a cuesmith with a lathe does. I've watched Mike Webb do tips amazingly fast and always perfect, my tips done by hand are never perfect.
It can be done, but it takes patience to do a good job. Rivercity probably has the patience and this is a good post, but if you find you don't have the patience don't try this on your good cue. Of course, it is also true that having a lathe doesn't guarantee a good job, it takes practice and skill.

Aaron_S 01-09-2007 06:27 AM

Great post! This is precisely the method, right down to the glue, that I've used for 10+ years putting all sorts of tips on my cues, and I can definitely vouch for this method. I also spend a fair bit of time burnishing the tip and ferrule. It gives a nice, finished look to the tip, and it restores the luster to the ferrule that is lost during sanding. The only tip I have not tried this method with is the Sniper; I was just too scared considering the cost of the tip. I have tried it with other layered tips, though, and with great results.

Cheez Dawg 01-09-2007 06:39 AM

Great write-up. Very thorough and informative. Points for you!!:D

chefjeff 01-09-2007 06:47 AM

I would add one step: Clean the shaft before/during/after with a little alcohol on a cloth. Any chalk near your tools can scratch the ferrule/shaft.

One other caveat re. that particular brand of sanding tool for the end of the ferrule: I've seen some of these that are NOT exactly 90 degrees square. So, when buying one at the store, double check to be sure it is perfectly square or else your tip will be slanted.

Nice thread for us cheapskates.

Jeff Livingston

Maniac 01-09-2007 08:07 AM

Nice post with good pics!!! I pretty much use this method when I re-tip my cues. Still don't have enough confidence in my abilities to do my good shafts yet:( , but I do all my house cues. One thing I do differently is that instead of Post-It notes, I wrap the ferrule with blue masking tape (the kind painters use), even all the way down the entire shaft so there is no chance of Super Glue getting on my shaft. It don't cost much and I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Maniac

NaturalEnglish 01-09-2007 08:19 AM

I also use blue painters tape. No glue residue. Good idea to go all the way down the shaft. When you tape part of the shaft...the tape removes chalk stains and it looks weird. So wrapping the whole shaft cleans the whole shaft! haha

Klopek 01-09-2007 02:14 PM

I use a similar method to you with a few variations. I actually want glue to squirt out from unbder the tip because it means there'll be no gaps between the tip and ferrule outer edge.

Before I use my cuetop sander, I apply painters tape around the end of the ferrule leaving some sticking above the face. I trim it close to flush and then sand it flush with the ferrule. When I glue the tip on, any glue that squirts out sticks to the tape and not the ferrule.

Another trick I picked up from a Bert Kinister video is to use drywall sandpaper to take the old tip down and rough up the ferrule/tip. It works quickly and leaves just enough of a rough surface for a perfect bond. I've used this for putting on phenolic tips and haven't had any pop off. It looks like screen door material, a mesh. Doesn't clog up.

Klopek 01-09-2007 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deadon
After the tip is applied and dried. Take a smooth block of wood and hold the shaft vertically tip down on the wood. Use a razor blade or a good utility bland and trim down from the ferrule to end of the tip. Using the edge of the ferrul as a guide. Take small pieces and rotate the shaft as you cue through.

This is how I trim my tips flush. I use a blade from a wood plane. It's straight across and has a flush one sided blade (flat on one side, bevelled on the other). Works great for trimming perfectly flush. Might invest in a porper Big Shaver but I really didn't like the mushroom grazer.

The Piper 01-09-2007 02:44 PM

Ok the Porper's big shaver is kinda a dent in the wallet. what other tool is as efficient or as easy to use as that one? The Cut rite shown on Seyberts retipping package? The Willards Tip Tool is definitely out the question. That was the one that my local pool hall used until they closed.

RiverCity 01-09-2007 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Piper
Ok the Porper's big shaver is kinda a dent in the wallet. what other tool is as efficient or as easy to use as that one? The Cut rite shown on Seyberts retipping package? The Willards Tip Tool is definitely out the question. That was the one that my local pool hall used until they closed.

Avoid the cutrite....... cuts at an angle, and can cut a chamfer on the end of the ferrule. You can use a razor knife to rough cut the sides, but you will still end up having to sand it down. On layered tips, I would be hesitant of cutting with a razor knife etc against the layers for fear of delamination problems.
The Big Shaver is so nice because it is adjustable, and makes quick work out of the task, with pretty much no fear of damaging the ferrule. After years of experimenting with exacto knives, mushroom grazers.... hell even dremel tools :D I feel it is well worth the investment!
Other than drying time, it takes me about 10-15 minutes to do a tip. Half hour if you include the drying time of the glue.
Chuck

Tommy-D 01-09-2007 04:43 PM

How to retip cues...... without a lathe
 
> I did my own tips for years with my own variations on the techniques and materials here,and it CAN be done well enough that unless a full-time cuemaker or one of the top repair guys does the work on a lathe,it won't cosmetically look any nicer. I developed my style well enough that the other 2 guys in my immediate area that do repairs on a semi-regular basis were losing customers to me before I even had a lathe. One of them has one of the first Porper repair lathes,the other has the small headstock Deluxe Cuesmith. People could look at my work,done by similar methods,and theirs,done on a suitable machine,and tell the difference. I won't say I can put a better tip on like this than Joe Blackburn or Varney for example can on their lathes,but there are a lot of people that have decent equipment to work with and can't put a decent tip on to save their lives. The guy locally that has the Porper was using a piece of leather to burnish a tip,on a Predator ferrule which are notoriously thin and soft,and I swear melted the damn thing all the way to the core.Then,he tried to replace it with the soft paper fiber/epoxy house cue type ferrule,at an additional cost of 25 bucks. I was handed the shaft 20 minutes later. Tommy D.

Jack Madden 01-09-2007 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by catscradle
I would suggest practicing on a shaft you don't particularly care about or an old house cue until you know exactly what you're doing. I have done my own tips on less expensive cues and do a pretty good job, but I maintain it is a rare person who does as good or better job by hand than a cuesmith with a lathe does. I've watched Mike Webb do tips amazingly fast and always perfect, my tips done by hand are never perfect.
It can be done, but it takes patience to do a good job. Rivercity probably has the patience and this is a good post, but if you find you don't have the patience don't try this on your good cue. Of course, it is also true that having a lathe doesn't guarantee a good job, it takes practice and skill.

I have heard good stuff about Mike's work from a mutual customer - practice, skill and a lathe do make it look easy. But if you don't have a lathe, you can use a regular drill motor. Years ago, I couldn't afford a lathe and lived in a condo so couldn't buy one if I wanted. So I mounted a drill motor to the dining room table (kids swore they wouldn't tell their Mom;) ;) ) - used it to clean my shafts and put on tips. Most cuemakers have some funky piece of equipment - one of mine is from a motorcycle.:D
Jack
www.johnmaddencues.com

rackem 01-09-2007 04:53 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by The Piper
Ok the Porper's big shaver is kinda a dent in the wallet. what other tool is as efficient or as easy to use as that one? The Cut rite shown on Seyberts retipping package? The Willards Tip Tool is definitely out the question. That was the one that my local pool hall used until they closed.

I have show these Pencil Sharpener looking trimmers before. They work great for me. I got my original one at a trade show a couple of years ago. These reproductions came of ebay from Germany. My original which was black and also says Germany. It is made little better made. I have never seen them from an USA supplier I have some extras but I really don't think its worth the shipping. Like I said before, One of the blue tip trimmers is a freebie while they last to any one who purchases a cue or case from me. please check my FS threads.

catscradle 01-10-2007 04:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack Madden
I have heard good stuff about Mike's work from a mutual customer - practice, skill and a lathe do make it look easy. But if you don't have a lathe, you can use a regular drill motor. Years ago, I couldn't afford a lathe and lived in a condo so couldn't buy one if I wanted. So I mounted a drill motor to the dining room table (kids swore they wouldn't tell their Mom;) ;) ) - used it to clean my shafts and put on tips. Most cuemakers have some funky piece of equipment - one of mine is from a motorcycle.:D
Jack
www.johnmaddencues.com

Actually I also use a drill though I don't mount it on anything. Cornerman turned me on to creating a "bit" to hold the shaft out of a crutch tip. Works pretty darn good.
I was thinking of getting this drill mount to mount it, but I'd have to go down in the basement to a bench (my wife wouldn't let me mount it to the kitchen table:rolleyes: :D ).

catscradle 01-10-2007 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rackem
I have show these Pencil Sharpener looking trimmers before. They work great for me. I got my original one at a trade show a couple of years ago. These reproductions came of ebay from Germany. My original which was black and also says Germany. It is made little better made. I have never seen them from an USA supplier I have some extras but I really don't think its worth the shipping. Like I said before, One of the blue tip trimmers is a freebie while they last to any one who purchases a cue or case from me. please check my FS threads.

I've seen those advertised in Mueller's catalog I think, but that looks like quite a significant taper.

The Piper 01-10-2007 05:37 AM

I have the mushroom grazer but had a bad incident where I grazed my ferrule, and I know that wouldn't be something I would want to use to bring down the tip.

On the Big Shaver do you have to use special colletts like the Willards? Or is it pretty much it does all differernt shaft diameters and tapers?

RiverCity 01-10-2007 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Piper
I have the mushroom grazer but had a bad incident where I grazed my ferrule, and I know that wouldn't be something I would want to use to bring down the tip.

On the Big Shaver do you have to use special colletts like the Willards? Or is it pretty much it does all differernt shaft diameters and tapers?

No collets, it has an adjusting screw (plastic, that rides on the ferrule when the tip is in the shaver). I havent measured it, but would guess you could go up to about 14.5mm through the bore.
Chuck

catscradle 01-10-2007 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RiverCity
No collets, it has an adjusting screw (plastic, that rides on the ferrule when the tip is in the shaver). I havent measured it, but would guess you could go up to about 14.5mm through the bore.
Chuck

This guy came in a room I used to frequent and his ferrule had this huge, deep groove in it. I knew that it had to be from tightened that adjusting screw up more and more each time he changed or trimmed a tip. I was always very, very careful how much I tightened it when I used the big shaver. I have the Willards tipping machine now, kind of expensive but works great.

Rod 01-10-2007 10:29 AM

I have a crutch tool a drill and a dremmel. Putting on tips is no problem and I never touch the ferrule except for some 4000 to polish. It takes some patience but if your good with your hands, no problem.

I should add those rapid top sanders (which I never use) cut down your ferrule and sands at a slight angle if your shaft is not a straight pro taper.

Rod

1hit1der 01-10-2007 11:02 AM

Has anyone here tried using the Pocket Lathe to do tips? Just wondering how well it works since it looks like a very inexpensive alternative to getting a real lathe. Thanks.

http://www.pocketlathe.com/

Hidy Ho 01-10-2007 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RiverCity
No collets, it has an adjusting screw (plastic, that rides on the ferrule when the tip is in the shaver). I havent measured it, but would guess you could go up to about 14.5mm through the bore.
Chuck

Nice write up.

I use very similar method when doing my own tip.

I use useless business cards rolled up instead of post-it. Top sander, I don't use the holes as mine is not exactly 90 degrees. I use my hand to turn the sander and eye ball it for flatness.

I also pre-glue the tip (to make sure the glues are soaked) and use blue painter's tape to tape around the ferrule for any glue over-runs. I also use Gel loctite .. way easier to use than the runny stuff.

Thanks for taking the time to post the photos and detailed instructions.

catscradle 01-10-2007 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1hit1der
Has anyone here tried using the Pocket Lathe to do tips? Just wondering how well it works since it looks like a very inexpensive alternative to getting a real lathe. Thanks.

http://www.pocketlathe.com/

Doesn't look to effective to me, but I've never tried it.

RiverCity 01-10-2007 07:22 PM

Glad you liked it!
 
Big thanks go out to everyone. Im glad the pictorial went over well!!
Chuck

jondrums 01-11-2007 08:06 AM

sanding fixture
 
1 Attachment(s)
I am surprised nobody has mentioned this easy and free alternative to those fancy sanding jigs. All you need is access to the ceiling joists in your basement. Or if you don't have that, a little imagination, a clamp, and a kitchen cabinet over a flat counter will do.

Just take a scrap piece of wood and drill a 1.5" hole in it with a hole saw. If you don't have a hole saw, then take two scrap pieces clamp them together and make a "v" cut more than halfway into them. Now flip one of them over and you'll have an adjustable square hole. either nail this to the ceiling over your workbench, or clamp it to the top shelf in a kitchen cabinet. Make sure its about 50-55" off the table/counter surface.

Then tape down some sandpaper and go to work - the attached sketch should tell you the rest. Just make small circles with the ferule on the sandpaper.

For the ocd amoung us - you can use a plum-bob to find the exact center below the jig's hole and mark that on the sandpaper. Then stay within a half an inch of that spot during the sanding.

Jon

billyjack 01-11-2007 10:11 PM

I’ve used the Porper Mushroom Grazer on a bunch of tip installations, but it’s tricky to get right. Best way I found is to clamp the tool to a workbench or tabletop and turn the shaft while keeping it aligned parallel. It’s also important to precisely set the depth stop to keep the blade from contacting the ferrule. Forget it for super hard tips like WB or Sumo. A much better way to go, IMO is what I’ll term the “Tape guide method”. Get yourself a 2 or 3 inch dia. Disc sanding mandrel with 100 to 120 grit discs. I use a drill press, but you can also use a hand drill motor with a trigger lock, clamped in a vise or to a tabletop. However you set it up, orient the disc so you can hold the shaft perpendicular to the disc and rotate it smoothly.
After cutting off the old tip and cleaning and squaring the ferrule, I wrap 2 layers of tape around the ferrule. First layer is Scotch tape, 2 laps around. Over that goes 2 layers of blue masking tape. Once all the tape is on, trim it all even to the tip end of the ferrule with a razor blade. Go ahead and glue on your tip. I use Gorilla Glue for all my installs, so the tape protects the ferrule from the inevitable glue squeeze-out. Once glue is set, you ready for tip sizing.
Set your drill for rpm in the 500-1000 area. Rotate the tip smoothly against the disc until you are lightly scuffing the blue tape all around. Go slow and keep the pressure light, so you don’t generate too much heat. Remove the masking tape, and clamp the shaft horizontally in a vise to a tabletop with the ferrule overhanging the edge. Cut a 1 inch wide strip of 320 to 400 grit sandpaper and loop it over the ferrule in an inverted “U”. Pull it back and forth “shoe shine style” to bring the tip down to the level of the scotch tape. Rotate the shaft about a quarter turn at a time and repeat as necessary, being careful not to sand through the scotch tape. Now you’re ready for the final steps.
Peel off the scotch tape, and repeat the above procedure with some 1500 to 2000 grit paper. You want to bring the tip down the last little bit in size to match the ferrule, and polish the ferrule in the same step. Grits this fine won’t remove any measurable amount from the ferrule, but will bring the softer tip material down to size. Spray a few drops of water on the paper and polish until dry. Wipe it down, shape the tip and you’re finished. Done well, you’ll have a burnished tip, nice and even with the now-polished ferrule. Total time to size and finish a glued tip is about 15-20 minutes. I can do it faster than it took to write this, and you can’t tell any difference from a job done on a lathe. If you have a usable drill, total investment of all the materials needed should still leave you change from a $20 bill. I hope this helps those who would like to do their own tips. Any questions, shoot me a PM.

Bill


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