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i got one id sell. its the newer version. it has a small chip in finish at the joint on the shaft. wrapless and has the original tip.

Custom heavy hitter: uni loc joint, samsara tip, about 23oz. Bloodwood and ebony. $250 shipped Predator BK3: sold Cuetec Cynergy: sold

Wanna say schon but not 100% sure. But that's my guess.

You can try putting India ink on before you start sealing.

Not trying to be rude but best one to ask is Jacoby directly.

I use the tape method as Phil said. Lay a strip of painters tape down, put the seam of the veneers in the middle. I fold it before the glue to check the seam and edges. Then run a bead of super glue and fold them back up. Put a little piece of tape to hold it closed. Then epoxy your point wood...

If your runout is .001" why would you want to keep monkeying with it.

I only got the one on finishing.

I know. I ordered a dvd last year. Emailed him a question I had after watching it, still waiting on a response. :)

If nothing else watch YouTube and buy Chris Hightower book/DVDs. And I think Joe barrenger at cue components has DVDs.

I feel you on this. Finish is the part I dread the most when building cues. I've only been doing this about 4 years and I think I've found a method I like but still always interested in learning what others do. Hang in there.

Are you talking about denatured alcohol. Is that what I see people spraying in epoxy table videos that get rid of bubbles.

I had asked a similar question about this for maple extensions. I was told using India ink. Before you put your finish on wipe it on let it dry and finish as normal. Hope this helps.

If your paper towel is getting stuck to the cue you might need to maybe spin the cue a little faster or move the paper towel along the cue faster. Or both. And a decent quality paper towel wouldn't hurt either, the real cheap shit is almost way to thin for it.

Why can't you just put the cue on centers and cut the inlay pockets normally. One side will just be a few thousands bigger. Just make sure to cut deep enough so when the final taper pass is made it doesn't cut all the inlay out. Just my thoughts, don't have a cnc yet but planning on buying one soon.

I have that problem too using CA as a sealer. I sign on the CA tape off the area around the signature and spray a thin coat of clear acrylic over let it dry then put my top coats over that.

Kelly Peterson at MVP cues makes full splice cues.

Before you even start yes I searched that. Is there anyone here that has had experience with some of the blanks that are out there. What do you feel your customers like the best. What do you think of the quality in production of the tubes. Or anything else you'd like to give your opinion on...

When you guys re finish a cue with just a few dings or small chips do you remove all the finish and start from wood or do you just patch the bad spots or sand down a little and build it back up. Thanks

Has anyone used polyester resin as a finish. Did you like it better than the others. If not why.