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I agree with using jb weld to resecure the insert and what i also do is drill 3 holes in the leg bracket 2 along top above the bolt and 1 on the outside corner and use wood screws making sure they are long enough to barely miss going out the finished side. And as John said you really need some...

http://www.acculevelbilliards.com/cincinnati-oh-pool-table-services.htm I did this anniversary on my website a couple months back. I am in Cleveland doing a table and will be back to Cincy tomorrow if you want to talk about what you want to do. Jim 513 257 9234

I can't answer your question. But I am wondering why? A good install would have the three slates playing as 1.

I've done about 4500 tables over the last 13 years and have a shop in Fairfield. What's up? Jim Accu-level Billiard Service 513-257-9234

That stuff stays greasy and sticky forever, in 13 years ive seen 2 tables where that was used and it was a mess and almost impossible to get off.

Unless he used the wax from a waxring that plumbers use for a toilet, that might cause the described.

I am very familiar with toplines. That is not one, toplines do not have stretchers or those apron mitres. The rail castings and rail lamination is very similar though. BTW i need a set of rail castings like that and apron mitres for a topline if anybody has or could get there hands on them.

Any worsted cloth will be best. The woolen cloth seems to get more nap in high humidity

It looks to me the table legs are missing an inch or two at bottom. Probably cutoff due to water? damage.

Well, you are talking about completely different styles of tables. The ag-450 will ultimately have more value imo. You will find most on here usually advise against furniture tables but vitalie is one of the best so i say go with the ag. With that said either one can be setup to play good or...

Pat, i was going to ask the same question before seeing your post.

Its a American Heritage. Its not bad for a 1500-2000 table new. That table specifically i have never seen with dead cushions. What i like about that table is the solid wood blocks connected to frame under mdf slate liner where slate screws are. Pockets are not leather though. Frame is mdf board...

They are exact same. 2 men can handle it

To think of it you wouldn't have to add a slate liner persay? just strips of poplar to all the frame peices and cross/center beams

Try posting some pics of your table inside and out and maybe somebody can help with labeling it. Also if your going through all the effort of redoing everything and your table is on the short side (close to 29") i would add the liner because i am 6' tall and 29" is uncomfortably short to me...

If the slate is proper for your table it should be 7/8" slate with a particle board liner glued to it. If you have 3/4" slate unbacked it is not original and if so you will need to add a slate liner or the table is going to be short.

With a little extra for mileage i am sure you could get somebody that knows what they are doing

O's rails are thin so the 1 3/8 will not give you any problems due to the angle of the nose being a bit flat and not downward. OP- yes the quick and short term fix is loosening rail bolts and sliding playing cards under the rail the entire length. But not the correct longterm fix

What you should do is find someone to do it! Simonis can be installed very well on unbacked slate. Where are you located?