I’ve been using chem-pak q wax.
After about 15 years I’m finally almost out of it, and I’m thinking about trying a new type.
Most here will tell you this is the stuff, https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-XTL-8004-Wax-Polish-65ml/dp/B003AJWN62
One thing that I am not clear on is whether you are supposed to burnish with leather before or after putting on the wax?
This is on a guitar but same for a cue. I was able to find this for you, enjoy, and good luck! ~ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UbbVsBA52YAre we talking about waxing shafts? How would you apply carnuba? It comes in hard blocks or flakes and have a high melting point.
The best wax I ever used is Craftsman Cue Wax that's formulated by Craftsman Cues in Birmingham, England.
I used to buy it direct in bulk quantities since shipping makes it expensive. I exhausted my supply about 6 mths ago.
Didn't want to spend another couple of hundred dollars buying 2 dozen cans so I switched to using Renaissance Wax.
It costs just as much but I can spend $20 on ebay & buy it as needed. Nonetheless, Craftsman Cue was a better cue wax.
Overall, I think for availability and price, use Renaissance Cue Wax. I am and I don't have any complaints either.
Matt B.
Are we talking about waxing shafts? How would you apply carnuba? It comes in hard blocks or flakes and have a high melting point.
Boil it in a metal trash can(you will need a bunch)... Then remove shaft and let cool. Once cooled GENTLY scrape excess way off with a knife at a 90 degree angle to the shaft then burnish with a winter scarf.
This has been the way for me.
Boil it in a metal trash can(you will need a bunch)once it reaches the boiling point kill the flame to reduce fire risk. Tape off the tip to stop "tip contamination" and submerge the shaft. Careful not to let liquid wax from entering the shaft threads. Then remove shaft and let cool. Once cooled GENTLY scrape excess way off with a knife at a 90 degree angle to the shaft then burnish with a winter scarf.
This has been the way for me.
For those of us who play with one-piece cues, you can submerge the entire cue in the liquid wax. If you are going to use this technique, the metal on the inside of your case will scratch and ruin the finish, so it is very important to fill your metal one-piece case with wax first for protection. Next, wrap a cardboard mailing tube in a sheet of asbestos (bottom end of tube capped, tube slightly wider than the cue's butt) and place in the metal case very carefully, being sure to center it perfectly. Once the wax has hardened you can pour lighter fluid on the end of the tube and then light with a match. The cardboard tube will burn away, leaving a nice lining for your case.
WARNING: The above will not work for two-piece cues.