How would you Get out?

I don’t see a 5 ball.

jokrswylde said:

Lost hill-hill to an SL-7 the other night. I am solids. Dude had one of his only misses of the entire match and left me here. Thought I had an easy run-out for the epic upset. Didn't happen.

My initial plan was to cheat the pocket just a bit, hit top-left on the 4. But upon closer inspection, any follow more than likely hits the 9 on the rail. Ended up opting to cheat the pocket with draw in hopes of bringing the cue ball out to the middle. I was pretty extended out, and I suck at getting good draw when I am over extended. Cue ends up in line with the five below the side pocket, leaving me a long, thin cut on the 6, which I proceeded to overcut. Dude runs out for the win.

Was it a solid plan with poor execution, or should I have been thinking something totally different. Thanks in advance for the tips!

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There is no 5 ball in the diagram. Anyway, it was the correct way to play it with poor execution. Depending on how much angle/room you had to cheat the pocket, you could even draw all the way down to the rail by the 7 and back out just to ensure you end up in a nice place.

Kobachi said:

I don’t see a 5 ball.

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Neither do I. Aside from that, cue ball rail first for the 4 would have likely gotten you shape on the 6.

Besides the option you tried, you could also draw straight back if there was absolutely no angle, crash into one of the balls near the side, and take a chance that the carom would send you in a direction where you could make the 6 or 7. Of course, this requires a super strong draw stroke, which is very difficult as you mentioned, due to the reach required for this shot.

Another option is playing safe. Bunt the 4 into the long rail very slightly, with the speed it ends up in front of the corner pocket, blocking the 9. And play the CB on the end rail somewhere between the 1st and second diamond. Now, the 9 ball doesn't go in either corner pocket (the 8 blocks the other corner), and then you can play cat and mouse from that position. The biggest pro to this option IMO is the execution is very likely to be perfect, even stretched over the table.

IMO, from a banger

I may have played the 4 ball off the rail with draw...if I made it I likely would have come out closer to the center of the table.

If you’re definitely hitting the 9 going forward I’m loading it with right and spinning off the 9 and towards the center of the table.

That or drawing into one of those balls down the side.

Hard to tell without being at the table.

I remember watching Shane practicing a much longer version of the rail-fist shot: low-inside, hooking to the opposite long rail and spinning out.

It’s a nice shot to have and doesn’t take long to get a feel for.

Rail first should not even be a consideration here. If there's enough angle to follow into the 9, there's enough angle to draw back towards the 7. And if it's a valley, which most APA leagues play on to my knowledge, you could pretty much get the cue ball to any spot on the table with this shot.

If there any angle on the 4 stun it with inside draw to get on the 1, the 5 in side and 2 balls at bottom corner.

If no angle on 4, meme 4 and drawn back for 6 then 7. Then 5, 1 and out.

On a barbox this out isn't hard. Identify the 5 and 1 as the tricky position shots and plan the out.

there is no 5 or 1 thats the 13 and 9. He only has the 6 and 7 on the table

highkarate said:

Rail first should not even be a consideration here.

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If you've practiced them this one's a gimme with natural medium speed shape. Way easier and more reliable than other options - if you've practiced them.

pj
chgo

Patrick Johnson said:

If you've practiced them this one's a gimme with natural medium speed shape. Way easier and more reliable than other options - if you've practiced them.

pj
chgo

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Respectfully disagree. The draw shot will always be a higher percentage make than rail first. And if you come short off the 2nd rail and get thin on the 6, you're going into the 7 and something could get funny. Drawing all the way down and out is the best shot by a long ways here, and anyone who thinks a rail first will give them a better outcome just needs to practice their draw stroke IMO.

highkarate said:

Respectfully disagree. The draw shot will always be a higher percentage make than rail first. And if you come short off the 2nd rail and get thin on the 6, you're going into the 7 and something could get funny. Drawing all the way down and out is the best shot by a long ways here, and anyone who thinks a rail first will give them a better outcome just needs to practice their draw stroke IMO.

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I agree. If the ball was close to the pocket, maybe rail first. But, assuming this was a bar box, that is not a difficult reach at all. Just have to get comfortable and ensure you hit it good. Being only 2 diamonds away, that's not a hard draw for just about anyone that has played pool a little.

highkarate said:

Respectfully disagree. The draw shot will always be a higher percentage make than rail first. And if you come short off the 2nd rail and get thin on the 6, you're going into the 7 and something could get funny. Drawing all the way down and out is the best shot by a long ways here, and anyone who thinks a rail first will give them a better outcome just needs to practice their draw stroke IMO.

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ChicagoRJ said:

I agree. If the ball was close to the pocket, maybe rail first. But, assuming this was a bar box, that is not a difficult reach at all. Just have to get comfortable and ensure you hit it good. Being only 2 diamonds away, that's not a hard draw for just about anyone that has played pool a little.

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I agree the draw shot isn't that difficult, but for me neither is the rail first shot in this layout - and it's a little easier to hit well with less speed and a little more predictable CB path.

Maybe it's personal preference.

pj
chgo

Just a draw shot at that angle would be the way to go, back to the middle of the table. If you wanted to follow it then a moderate hit, not soft, would throw the CB out past the 9 before the follow would take effect. And NO top left, just top, top left would make it come off the second(long) rail at too much of an angle .. top would keep you out in the middle

jokrswylde, Howdy;

I see a kick on the 7, between 2ed and 3rd diamonds top rail left of pocket with about a
1/2 tip of inside. Where the 7 is located it would correspond to 1 diamond Left of the bottom
Left pocket or very near that line. CB is inline for the 1st diamond to Right of lower side pocket
so "it should" make solid contact. Hitting it with pocket speed will leave the CB near the
Left end rail and you should be able to work out something else from there or have the CB tucked
in a difficult position for the SL 7.

hank

First thing I would say is there are no easy run-outs. It only takes one shot to be too far out of line to recover, one unplanned stroke.

If your first choice is to try and hit the rail by the 9 and follow back down with high left do that. Even if there is a decent chance you can clip the 9. If you have hit that shot before try and remember that feel. In your mind be comfortable with the fact if you clip the 9 and get out of line you lose the game, it will help you stroke it better. If there was no chance not to clip the 9, of course don't shoot that. If you pull a tight shot off you might make your opponent think twice next time whether you get out or not.

Seems like you hit the draw shot pretty well to get back to the side after cheating the pocket. What kind of table were you shooting on? From where you ended up after the draw shot I would have played a safety by rolling the cue ball with a hair of left english to hit the 7 fairly full, rolling the cueball tight onto the 6. If you play the safety speed right also try and block the short one rail kick with the 6 for his ten in the side. He may still be able to kick one rail the long way but he would be jacked over the 6. If you leave the one rail kick open I would expect the SL7 to make the ten half of the time or more. After he makes the kick he will have a hard time clearing all the balls unless he lands peachy on his next ball.

I would only cut the 6 If I can tell I will push the 7 to a pocketable place. Also I would try to cut the 6 pocket speed to take away a possible pocket for the 12 if you hang the 6.

Another option is to miss the 4 on the first shot trying to block the 9 ball while leaving yourself a shot on the 4. He would have to shoot an awkward shot in the side or start off with the ten. If he starts with the ten ball he will be hard pressed to runout with the 9 ball tied up.