I have a Brunswick 8 foot glenwood that has cavernous pockets
Is there a way to tighten them a bit without it being visually noticed
Have a mechanic remove old cushions, do proper subrail extensions, add new cushions, new facings and rail cloth, BAM, done.
Trent from Toledo
Trent
The rails are new, the table is new. Is it necessary to replace the rails
I have a Brunswick 8 foot glenwood that has cavernous pockets
Is there a way to tighten them a bit without it being visually noticed
Dead? With Neoprene?
OK then reverse the thought....
Double thick shim (one piece) half as hard.
Dura 25 (If normal shim is Dura 50).
Triple thick shim (one piece) 1/3 as hard.
Dura 12.5?
Not saying this works but if a two piece, double shimmed Pocket plays ”dead” then the softer, double thick, but one piece, lower Dura number shim should be more bouncy?
OK....Not Saying This Logic Works But Here Goes.....
If the shim (one piece) is double the thickness, would they have to be twice as hard?
Could that compensate?
So....Duro of 50 for a normal shim, but twice the thickness use Duro 100.
Before you all shoot me.....
I don't think it is a linear difference that see-saws values.
If that was true...a triple thick shim (one piece) would have to be Duro 150?
To the OP....when you say the pockets are cavernous.....
What is the measurement of the opening?
IMHO...5” Pockets are the best for real world playing.
corners are 5 1/8th and sides are 5 3/4
Dear Cessna, you will never get a shimmed pocket to play like a properly extended rail, I don’t care what some table hack has to say. That doesn’t mean that your table shimmed to 4.5” won’t be good for you to play on at home. It’s just that any ball that hits the shim won’t react the same as rail rubber.
Dear Cessna, you will never get a shimmed pocket to play like a properly extended rail, I don’t care what some table hack has to say.
I am not saying to “stack” the shims.
I feel that stacking does not work because there is no mechanical connection between the two shims and energy is lost.
I am speculating that if I double/triple the thickness of the shim, but use one piece....
A: Leave the Duro at “60”. Should be same rebound?
B: Change the Duro to a Harder/Softer Duro to compensate?
You could setup a “drop test” to measure the rebound using.....
A: Standard Thickness Shim, 60 Duro
B: Double Thickness, 60 Duro
C: Triple Thickness, 60 Duro
I would think all should rebound the same?
If the rebound is not the same then you could measure the adjustment/compensation by using a softer/harder piece of shim with a different Duro number.
Example: 20% less rebound, then use a 20% harder piece.
Again....I think you should get the same rebound effect from all thickness’s of the material using the same Duro Number.
BTW....some very respected Mechanics on here advocate using Duro 50 for their shim material.
I acknowledge that using thicker shims is not the true correct way, because extended rails and cushions have the tips of the cushions in the correct place in the pocket, effecting play at the entrance to the pocket.