Can Practicing Exclusively on Tight Pocket Tables be a Detriment to Your Game?

I always felt that unless you were playing in dead punch, and had the world on a string..that tight tables just made you play differently. When you get used to just
a little less juice, and a little more sacrifice of the spot.. then you aren't used to using
all your horsepower, and when you don't use it all the time it can fail you more often.
JMHO

I don't know... I'm just a banger.... but when I played on a snooker table.. I sure didn't miss on a bar box much!

td

There's a post every week claiming tight pocket practice makes them unbeatable on normal tables so I'd say the answer is either A) no, in fact it helps, B) it makes no difference, or C) it's different for everyone but let's debate it as if it isn't.

I'm gonna go with C) and assume Mr. tight pocket/dead rubber/bad lighting/too hot/too cold/torture chamber practice table will be along shortly.

I dont care what table you play on, your fundamentals are gonna tell in you.

A tighter table just makes your lack of good fundamentals show moreso than the normal to easy tables.

Its really no more complicated than ^^^^^^^.

As for your game being better or worse at times:

Welcome to the land of amateurs.


Sure, pros hit slumps also but, their slumps are so high we can't see them from our peaks.

I have a tight Diamond and compete mainly on Gold Crowns lately. The transition does make it seem easier in the GC tables. However, I play everyday on my Diamond and compete maybe twice a month. Like compete for fun, no league, no serious money.

If I had to do it again, I wouldn’t have a right Diamond at home. I would optimize my daily table for fun and confidence; not for pain and discipline.



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I don't see how it could do anything but help you, Chris. Now, that said, some people get frustrated easily and if they cant make a ball, they quit. But ( my impression, at any rate ) you're not that type person. All 6 GCs in our room are cut very tight ( 4 1/14, I believe, corners ) and the few times I go to other rooms in the area it's as if the pockets are 12" wide.

….depends on what level you play at...…...

I think of it like golf - when I go to the practice green, I go for short putts (2-3 footers), while others try to sink 20-30 footers. I want the short ones to build confidence. Seeing the ball go in the cup, hearing the drop, all gives me confidence I can do it on the course. On the course, all I need to do is get the ball in a three foot circle around the cup, and I know I can two putt and out.

So, I think you’re on to something. Practice on the table that your going to play on for tourneys or for money. Build confidence and practice that game you want to and can play on those tables.

Just my thoughts...


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For me this was true

grindz said:

I always felt that unless you were playing in dead punch, and had the world on a string..that tight tables just made you play differently. When you get used to just
a little less juice, and a little more sacrifice of the spot.. then you aren't used to using
all your horsepower, and when you don't use it all the time it can fail you more often.
JMHO

I don't know... I'm just a banger.... but when I played on a snooker table.. I sure didn't miss on a bar box much!

td

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I found the same thing. Practicing on tight tables while playing on other tables all the time too was great for my game. However, when I spent too much time on tough tables without spending time on other tables it subtly altered my shot selection and pattern play. When I finally played on a looser table I played it the same way I played the tight table. Led to making bad choices on the loose table.

Like you, a few hours on a snooker table made the pockets on a bar table or even nine footer with generous pockets feel like I was shooting at #3 washtubs!

Hu

A subject near and dear to my heart. First lets talk about pocket billiard games played around the world. From what I can see Americans are the only ones who play with large pockets. Russian Pyramid, Chinese 8 ball, Snooker, British Isle black pool...all of these tables/games have tight pockets. It is a superior way to play in my opinion. Now growing up in So Cal and playing on Dominguez's specialized tables, you best be good with tight pockets or you won't belong.
My first Minnesota Fats table had buckets and I got Practice Pro Pocket reducers to adjust to 3 7/8 and 4" flat.
Currently I have a Diamond Pro-Am with 4 1/4 and worn 860HR, I'll play on anything, but I wont gamble on anything looser than my table.
In short my philosophy is Practice in the 100mph cage to get ready for guy who throws in the 90's.

jrctherake said:

I dont care what table you play on, your fundamentals are gonna tell in you.

A tighter table just makes your lack of good fundamentals show moreso than the normal to easy tables.

Its really no more complicated than ^^^^^^^.

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I'm on my way East . Any tight tables around? I'm in Nashville thinking bout Huntsville if anyone wants action

ChrisinNC said:

I'm starting to wonder if my frustration level in practicing virtually exclusively on these tight tables is taking such a toll on my confidence that it's carried over to playing way below my skill level on the other tables in our weekly Monday night tournaments? Any thoughts or suggestions? - thanks

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looking into this over the last year for myself I came to the conclusion they are nothing but annoying during practice and otherwise just not much fun. It always seems that the ball I miss gets in the way of my next shot anyways.

After spending some time at another pool hall that has a lot of tight pockets and working with them I found the only thing they added in were negative effects on the game. Things like not cheating the pockets, ball speed, angles, bla bla,.. Nothing good. Just overpriced junk that causes lot's of problems. I do see the hustler mode here but really,

Bottom line the middle of the pocket is the middle of the pocket and that's what I look at as the balls go in.

I do promote them on the demo site I made at pool-hall.com

Practice on the tables that are like the ones you are going to play on.

I hate super tight tables...they ruin the game.

People will say that "looser" tables are easier.

If they are "easier", then increase the number of games in the set to make up for it.

Tables with super tight pockets encourage too many safety plays.

I like to see "offense" and "packs". I don't like games where the table makes the players "gun shy" and they resort to 50% defense when difficult shots come up.

For me playing on a 4 1/4 is seldom, but as far as width goes I find them no different than 4 1/2 besides the darn facing (the angle changes everything for me). I honestly miss looser pockets, I can't find them anymore, everything is "pro cut" Diamonds.

If you're on the hunt for extreme difficulty, you could have pyramid rails cut to 1/16" wider than your balls and end that quest forever... just watch your blood pressure.

Accept the fact there is avast difference between practicing alone versus competitively playing someone.
Practicing at home does sharpen one’s skills to a point but when the setting changes, well, so can you.

Playing on a table with reasonably tight pockets will develop you into a better player or else you will just
plateau. Only drive and commitment can push you into tacking and succeeding where others less skilled
struggle and become frustrated. A 10’ table is the ultimate test but a 9’ with tight pockets can come close.

The drawback is your home table becomes a golf course a lot of your visitors and friends may not enjoy.
If you’ve got a very high handicap, the last thing you want to do is play a course like St. Andrews or Pebble Beach.
You’ll love the view but a pocket calculator will be needed to tabulate your scoring cuz sure ain’t no muny course.

Bavafongoul said:

Accept the fact there is avast difference between practicing alone versus competitively playing someone.

Practicing at home does sharpen one’s skills to a point but when the setting changes, well, so can you.



Playing on a table with reasonably tight pockets will develop you into a better player or else you will just

plateau. Only drive and commitment can push you into tacking and succeeding where others less skilled

struggle and become frustrated. A 10’ table is the ultimate test but a 9’ with tight pockets can come close.



The drawback is your home table becomes a golf course a lot of your visitors and friends may not enjoy.

If you’ve got a very high handicap, the last thing you want to do is play a course like St. Andrews or Pebble Beach.

You’ll love the view but a pocket calculator will be needed to tabulate your scoring cuz sure ain’t no muny course.

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I have to disagree with this concept. Tight pockets slowdown the stoke. Makes you play ultra conservative. It hasn’t been good for pool in general. Everyone thinks....oh tight pockets do it must be tougher for those that don’t play on them. Not exactly. I have had my best game on tighter pockets but that’s because I was on and didn’t know any better. 4 1/2 are just fine. You will still miss and rattle plenty.


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I do not change my stroke on tight pockets. I mean pockets ridiculously tight from Pro Pocket Reducers.
The corner pockets on the front tables at Blue Fin are under 4”. The reducers make the opening tiny.

If you are curious, look at the thread for Pocket Reducers and look at the measurements in the photos.
Consistency is the most important thing I’ve found and so I don’t change my stroke with tight pockets.

Some might be tempted to slow roll some shots for added insurance of pocketing the OB, I.e, friendlier
pockets. My stroke really doesn’t change because a table plays harder from having smaller pockets.

Bavafongoul said:

I do not change my stroke on tight pockets. I mean pockets ridiculously tight from Pro Pocket Reducers.
The corner pockets on the front tables at Blue Fin are under 4”. The reducers make the opening tiny.

If you are curious, look at the thread for Pocket Reducers and look at the measurements in the photos.
Consistency is the most important thing I’ve found and so I don’t change my stroke with tight pockets.

Some might be tempted to slow roll some shots for added insurance of pocketing the OB, I.e, friendlier
pockets. My stroke really doesn’t change because a table plays harder from having smaller pockets.

Click to expand...

Let me know where you are and if I can reach you then you have a match. Been playing too long to agree. If you can hit a bottom left shot into the corner at warp speed because that’s what it takes then that’s the player I want to learn from.


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Fresno, CA.......and why would you want to hit a cue ball at warp speed with any stroke,
aside from say the break? I dunno about you but I try to move the cue ball around the table
Instead of sending it around the table. Pool is actually finesse and a stroke is part of that.
Naturally in a game, match, or tournament you will be confronted with a variety of shots.

Ditto again about you but I don’t remember the last time I stroked the cue ball at warp
speed. I recall hitting the cue ball with lots of follow but never warp speed. Same applies
to draw stroke. Cue strokes have a velocity chart and you really do not want to hang out
around the top. A pool stroke is a measured motion, not a 100 mph pitch. You know that.

You play the table within the limits of your stroke. For example, on a 9’ table, an object ball
that’s 6 diamonds away from the cue ball exceeds my draw stroke. So I either play a stop,
stun or follow stroke but not a draw stroke. If it’s a OB near the corner pocket where the rails
get involved, I’ll power a draw stroke 8 diamonds away but not when it’s a straight back draw.

I know the limits of my stroke so the map I use for running the table is for what I can do, not
what another player thinks they could do. Hitting the cue ball in a perpendicular fashion (sans
any wiggle or wobble) is the key to a straight shot. Unintended movement on the cue ball is a
surefire shot killer. And excess speed is another. Did you look at the photos I posted under the
Pocket Reducers thread? Under 4” are the CP pockets I play on and the sides are 1” wider. The
table is admittedly stingy but it helps to sort out the skill levels. Anyone can run 5-6-7 balls. It takes
more skill to own the rack & dominate it with safety control and running all the balls along the way.

I understand your point about trying a shot that is admittedly very hard using warp speed but again,
why would you want to? You can play the fiddle like Charlie Daniels or the violin like Itzhak Perlman.
Both type bow strokes are needed in pool but neither is performed at warp speed to produce melody
Might I suggest practicing a smooth, balanced straight line pool stroke extending 3-5” beyond the CB?