K66 or K55

S

stickman161

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I resently setup a older Valley, 1991 vintage, and purchased new covered rails to replace the old ones. After installing The new ones have a thud sound to them and are not bouncing as you would expect from new rails. The rails have 3 bolts ea. and I tightened bolt 2 just till the cloth slightly touched the frame, then 1, then 3 the same way. I did this several times with a nut driver till they were nicely tightened by hand then moved on to the next 5 rails and did the same. I told the customer that situation might correct it self in a few weeks. Wrong. Ebayer seller dose not warranty rails. Only allows returns if not bolted to the table. The rails do not have that cut out where the cloth gathers and stapled on ea. end, so it's not really flat across the back of the rail if you look down the rail. There is only one place by the side pocket where it's visable. Would this cause a thud sound.

The seller's auction identifies the rubber as "K55 premium pink". The Valley web site uses K66 rubber. Is the difference significant?

I've covered several tables over several years and always replaced the rubber because of the big difference in price. Never had a thud problem till now.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thank,

Stickman161
 
realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
stickman161 said:
I resently setup a older Valley, 1991 vintage, and purchased new covered rails to replace the old ones. After installing The new ones have a thud sound to them and are not bouncing as you would expect from new rails. The rails have 3 bolts ea. and I tightened bolt 2 just till the cloth slightly touched the frame, then 1, then 3 the same way. I did this several times with a nut driver till they were nicely tightened by hand then moved on to the next 5 rails and did the same. I told the customer that situation might correct it self in a few weeks. Wrong. Ebayer seller dose not warranty rails. Only allows returns if not bolted to the table. The rails do not have that cut out where the cloth gathers and stapled on ea. end, so it's not really flat across the back of the rail if you look down the rail. There is only one place by the side pocket where it's visable. Would this cause a thud sound.

The seller's auction identifies the rubber as "K55 premium pink". The Valley web site uses K66 rubber. Is the difference significant?

I've covered several tables over several years and always replaced the rubber because of the big difference in price. Never had a thud problem till now.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thank,

Stickman161
Click to expand...
Tighten the pocket casting bolts, as they are what hold the side panels together, in which the rail caps are mounted, in which the rail blocks are mounted.....did you check the casting bolts for being loose, or missing before you reassembled the table?
 
JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
realkingcobra said:
Tighten the pocket casting bolts, as they are what hold the side panels together, in which the rail caps are mounted, in which the rail blocks are mounted.....did you check the casting bolts for being loose, or missing before you reassembled the table?
Click to expand...

Anything wrong with using K66 on tables designed for the Monarch cushions ?
Belt sand the top of the sub-rail by hand to accommodate the K66 ? :grin:
 
S

stickman161

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The table was already together. Owner purchased from a club that had shut down 5 years ago. The slate has Aug 21 1991 stamped on it. Is it possible the casting bolts could have come loose by just moving the table to its current location. I assume i would have to remove the slate to get to the bolts.

Thanks
 
ROB.M

ROB.M

:)
Silver Member
Post

I use a flexible ratchet wrench and you don't needs to remove the liners or slate. You can tighten the bolts with the liners and slate in place. You can feel the bolt with your fingers so getting a standard type of wrench in there it possible without disassembly' just don't drop the wrench inside of the table!


Enjoy.



Rob.M
 
ROB.M

ROB.M

:)
Silver Member
Table

No sir, Both model 32 and DZ models with and with out coin op that I have done this to. I don't see the cougar on your castings.. I can't make out which fasteners you have in the pocket liners but removing the twist nails pin nails in the older pockets is not a simple quick task when just needing to tighten a bolt...
If you have Allen headed bolt fasteners it would make for a simple quick removal. But it appears you have plastic plugs holding the liners in place.
I'd say ur table is older than 1991..
Your table must have the brown and wide down miters on the four corners of the base/box.
It also looks on your table that someone has replaced the original pockets liners with 4 inch liners instead of the originals 3 inch liners.. So that would leave no gap to get a wrench on yours...




Rob.M
 
Last edited:
S

stickman161

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
dontlitethat said:
No sir, Both model 32 and DZ models with and with out coin op that I have done this to. I don't see the cougar on your castings.. I can't make out which fasteners you have in the pocket liners but removing the twist nails pin nails in the older pockets is not a simple quick task when just needing to tighten a bolt...
If you have Allen headed bolt fasteners it would make for a simple quick removal. But it appears you have plastic plugs holding the liners in place.
I'd say ur table is older than 1991..
Your table must have the brown and wide down miters on the four corners of the base/box.
It also looks on your table that someone has replaced the original pockets liners with 4 inch liners instead of the originals 3 inch liners.. So that would leave no gap to get a wrench on yours...


Rob.M
Click to expand...

that's not my customers table. the
bottom of the slate was clearly stamped Aug 21,1991.
those twist nails are really a pain. there were several broken off in the casting.

thanks for all responses, i'll check the casting bolts tomorrow.
 
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