Cross slide - is something missing

youngstownkid · Jun 3, 2017

I was getting a significant cross slide movement, as if I was going over a bump, when tapering near the joint end. After nearly ruining a shaft, I took my cross slide apart and cleaned everything but am wondering what the circular cutout is for. Is there something missing?

CamposCues · Jun 4, 2017

Track

Not sure about the cutout. Check the track that the cross slide pinion gear rides in. If you get a wood chip in it, it can cause problems like you described when tapering.

Busbee Cue · Jun 4, 2017

The circular cut out is there to hold a clamping screw that fits into the T slot
To secure the aluminum piece to the cross slide. It also allows the top slide to swivel, it is not needed in your application because you have the four screws to accomplish the task of holding the pieces together.

Nuts4Tascarellas · Jun 4, 2017

Circle

Absolutely correct. It's to allow the option of swiveling the cross slide. It's called a compound cross slide.

youngstownkid · Jun 4, 2017

Thanks for the info!

Tommy-D · Jun 4, 2017

If you look for them online,there are several pictures where people made their own modifications for this assembly because it can be flimsy if that ONE hold-down screw isn't 100% as tight as you can get it. The gibs must also be adjusted right.

It's also kind of an odd Allen wrench size at 7/64. A FULL set of standard or SAE Allen wrenches will have it,but not every set.

It will also be easier to use the long end of your Allen for adjusting it.

I have one myself,so this is hard-won advice from using it myself. Tommy D.

deadbeat · Jun 4, 2017

You will notice you have 4 tapped holes, that is a compound cross slide made to cut angles, but has been modified to taper. As said earlier, people who don't tap them that cut just angles have put paper and such in there to tighten things up. If you just buy the compound cross slide it will not have those 4 holes to hold it straight and steady. They were added and counter sunk for tapering only.

Renegade_56 · Jun 4, 2017

The brass gib is junk also. Get a delrin one if you can find it, and a good gear oil for lube,

youngstownkid · Jun 4, 2017

Renegade_56 said:
The brass gib is junk also. Get a delrin one if you can find it, and a good gear oil for lube,

Thanks for the advice. Very much appreciated.

youngstownkid · Jun 4, 2017

I extended the taper wheel out a little more to compress the spring even more. Hopefully that helps, but I think the problem may be that the spring is rolling, and when the very end of the coil slides off the rounded bottom, it gives a millimeter or so. (Why on earth is the bottom rounded?) If the problem persists, I might have a machinist friend make one that isn't rounded.

youngstownkid · Jun 4, 2017

Or maybe I can find a cap for the bottom of the spring...a rounded cap would be nice!

youngstownkid · Jun 4, 2017

Actually it looks like something is meant to maybe help with this. A bolt with maybe a sleeve the spring can be guided by...just need to find something.

youngstownkid · Jun 4, 2017

Nevermind! I just realized that is for a dial if you didn't want the spring loaded cross slide on it. I think I found a solution anyway, I found a small screw with a rounded head that I slid into the bottom of the spring, and it seems to roll smoothly with no occasional hiccups.

Dave38 · Jun 4, 2017

OK, is this a Hightower lathe? If so, call Chris.....he knows these better than the back of his hand. If it's not one of his, He's still the best guy to ask questions of. These lathes are not complicated, but can be frustrating when not used to dealing with these items.
Dave

sileighty_guru · Jun 5, 2017

One other thing to check...

Look for buildup on the taper bar (epoxy, CA, crud etc...) even the smallest of imperfections on the taper bar transfer to the crossslide. Just run your finger the length of it and feel for anything not smooth!

Just a shot in the dark but would be an easy fix, plus is something I have run into before!

cueman · Jun 5, 2017

For those who have older machines like that one. Something that can be done to stop the spring loaded slide from binding is lower the taper bars so the bottom of the lower butt bar is 2.75" above the base board. You will need to countersink the bolt heads so they do not stick out the front of the 1 inch thick bar. Then get a heavier duty spring and smaller roller bearing. The heavier spring will cause more binding if your bearing sits up too high. So lowering it and going with smaller bearing will allow you to use heavier spring. You will have to stick the bearing stem in from the bottom to use the butt bar and from the top to use the shaft bar. That is how the taper bars have been set up the last few years.
New spring and small roller bearing are $20 plus shipping.

youngstownkid · Jun 8, 2017

I ended up moving the taper bars down, but didn't countersink the bolts, so I'm still using the larger wheel for the shaft taper bar, but need the smaller one (inverted) for the butt bar. Thanks.

cueman · Jun 10, 2017

youngstownkid said:
I ended up moving the taper bars down, but didn't countersink the bolts, so I'm still using the larger wheel for the shaft taper bar, but need the smaller one (inverted) for the butt bar. Thanks.

I am puzzled how it can clear the bolt heads with the smaller roller without counter sinking the bolt heads. It seems like the roller bearing holder would hit them. I guess it must barely clear on the butt bar, but not on the small end of the shaft bar. Using two different sizes of roller bearings means two different amounts of spring pressure also.

youngstownkid · Jun 10, 2017

cueman said:
I am puzzled how it can clear the bolt heads with the smaller roller without counter sinking the bolt heads. It seems like the roller bearing holder would hit them. I guess it must barely clear on the butt bar, but not on the small end of the shaft bar. Using two different sizes of roller bearings means two different amounts of spring pressure also.

Correct, the bolt heads are a little inside the butt bar. Are you saying I can't use the larger wheel with the larger spring.

cueman · Jun 12, 2017

youngstownkid said:
Correct, the bolt heads are a little inside the butt bar. Are you saying I can't use the larger wheel with the larger spring.

Yes. I am saying use the new smaller roller bearing with the larger spring for both the butt bar and shaft bar and get the bolt heads counter sank where they do not stick out the front of the large middle bar.

Cross slide - is something missing

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