According to what I found on a web search, the playing surface should be between 29 1/4" - 31" but more senior members here, will know for certain.
Cool, thanks. I'm in the ballpark.
According to what I found on a web search, the playing surface should be between 29 1/4" - 31" but more senior members here, will know for certain.
I get rid of the seam between the outside pedestal caps and the leg panels.
I like the seam!
As to fish eyes, the actual cause is left over silicone and or waxes on the finish to be painted. Very hard to get all traces off with a simple sanding and wipe down before first coat of paint, only takes a trace. They do make special solvents to use with the wipe down before your first paint coat, or they also make an additive that you can add to your paint before spraying, that will help reduce the surface tension. If you already have it, yes then the correct step would be to sand it back somewhat and respray. And 400 grit would be nice, but depending on the depth, you may need to start with 320, and finish with 400. If it is orange peel, and not fish eye, thats something totally different, and usally caused by a misadjustment of your spray gun, as it relates to the amount of air to the thickness of the paint.
Second coat laid down without incident. I spot sanded the fisheyes by hand with 400 then hit the entirety of the panels with 320 using my orbital sander. It came out nice; no sanding marks or fish eyes. I'll scuff and shoot coat 3 in the morning.
Lookin AWESOME BROTHER!!! Can't wait to see your finished project!
Trent from Toledo
That looks really Good! (like the Great White by the way)
I thought you were going to do the table completely in white with silver pocket dress caps.
(great white shark theme).
and then I saw the blue skirts and panels.
Looking really good Scott. Glad this coat came thru without incident!
Scott....Use an HVLP gun and do you have an oil trap in your pressure line? Why not check in with a body shop supplier for fish eye reducer for your paint too? Might help. Sanding the existing fish eyes is important because the contaminent causing the problem is trapped in the finish and will work into the next coat. If it's not oil it's usually silicone probably from a cleaning rag used long ago. Good luck...love the look!! Mitch
Scott....Use an HVLP gun and do you have an oil trap in your pressure line? Why not check in with a body shop supplier for fish eye reducer for your paint too? Might help. Sanding the existing fish eyes is important because the contaminent causing the problem is trapped in the finish and will work into the next coat. If it's not oil it's usually silicone probably from a cleaning rag used long ago. Good luck...love the look!! Mitch
Scott, good idea using the carpet squares. Easy to replace when stains appear. I'm thinking about using them next time I re-carpet my poolroom.
As to fish eyes, the actual cause is left over silicone and or waxes on the finish to be painted. Very hard to get all traces off with a simple sanding and wipe down before first coat of paint, only takes a trace. They do make special solvents to use with the wipe down before your first paint coat, or they also make an additive that you can add to your paint before spraying, that will help reduce the surface tension. If you already have it, yes then the correct step would be to sand it back somewhat and respray. And 400 grit would be nice, but depending on the depth, you may need to start with 320, and finish with 400. If it is orange peel, and not fish eye, thats something totally different, and usally caused by a misadjustment of your spray gun, as it relates to the amount of air to the thickness of the paint.