You Can Get Started With $100 Cue

Celophanewrap · Feb 10, 2016

I think you have to go with what works for you. Some folks would rather have the $5000 Southwest and some a $75 Lucky or Players. The moral to all this is to find something you like. While it's so true that it's the Indian an not the arrow, a new pretty arrow can sometimes energize your game, give you a new found enthusiasm, maybe you want to practice if for no other reason than just to show off your new ax. But that may be short lived as the shine is generally fairly quick to wear off. Find something you like and go with it and don't shy away from something a bit cheaper, it's likely to be the cue you always come back to

Sir Scratchalot · Feb 10, 2016

poolguy4u said:
.

When playing on a bar box, cheap cues will work fine.

Once you graduate to a 9 foot table, you will need something better.

Like instead of an old VW, you need to go to a Cadillac to play on a 9 footer.

Cheap cues do not work good on 9 foot tables.

.

You forgot the winking smiley face to indicate this is a sarcastic post...because it'd be nonsense otherwise, especially that last line. LOL

BmoreMoney · Feb 11, 2016

Corwyn_8 said:
Even if it is true that some new cue might not make you play better, it might make you play more often, which might improve your game. For others, of course, it might make you play less often, those people might want to reconsider the purchase.

Thank you kindly.

p.s. Causing the creation of artistic cues really is an example of wealth creation, so no guilt as long as no endangered resources are used.

It is absolutely true that as long as you have a good shaft and a good tip you can play good regardless of price of cue. I think there is one aspect that has not been mentioned yet though. While it may be totally psychological, if someone truly believes a nicer ( more expensive ) cue can make them play better then they MAY actually play better. Remember, the mental part of the game is just as important as the physical execution imo.

Black-Balled · Feb 11, 2016

ctyhntr said:
Back in the Golden days of pool, only the professionals had their own cues. In the word of Big John from The Hustler, "I don't never hustle people that walk into poolrooms with leather satchels." Everyone, especially hustlers used house cues.

I concur. Getting started is what the cues on the wall are for.

beerpressure · Feb 11, 2016

I get weird looks when I bring my cue case into the local elks lodge. Every single "house cue" is broken junk.

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poolguy4u · Feb 11, 2016

Sir Scratchalot said:
You forgot the winking smiley face to indicate this is a sarcastic post...because it'd be nonsense otherwise, especially that last line. LOL

.

My comment came from knowledge and experience.

To perform certain shots on a 9 foot table, a cheap cue just doesn't do the job

like a slightly more expensive cue. A cheap J&J or Kaiser will not perform

as well as the cheapest Joss cue. When you need extreme follow, your

cheap cue will run out of gas.

.

Break and One · Feb 11, 2016

I agree with what everyone is saying and I have seen JohnnyT post a lot of good advice on these boards but let me play devils advocate.

What about spending the money on a Low Deflection shaft? Wouldn't it be easier for a beginner to have to make less adjustments for deflection?

I know I play with a Low deflection shaft as well I know SamLambert, on here who is also a relatively new player, used a low deflection shaft.

I ordered my cue from pool dawg. I spent 90.00 on a mcdermott g206 butt and spent 3 times that on a predator 314-3 shaft.

ctyhntr · Feb 11, 2016

I could be wrong, but Brunswick did tried to capitalize on The Hustler. They came out with combo pool/bowling alleys and family centers and redesigned the pool table. I believe the Gold Crown table came out as a response to the old stogy tables.

When The Color of Money became a hit, the entire industry lined up behind 9-ball as the vehicle for success. Simonis came out with 860 to showcase 9-ball.

Johnnyt said:
That's right,95 % played off the wall up to around 1963, after "The Hustler" came out. After the book and movie came out, everyone had to walk I with a 2-piece and sometimes a 3 or 4 piece LOL.

As far as no sticks on the wall anymore, most poolroom owners are/were players and not business men, plus most are lazy. Pool could have been at least as big as bowling was in its hayday if it was handled right. Johnnyt

dardusm · Feb 11, 2016

lorider said:
Funny to see this thread after the change I made 2 weeks ago

12 years ago when I started playing league...bcapl. I bought a 100.00 players cue.

Over the years I kept progressing up the ladder in name brand and cost. I have bought and played with mid level up to highest price production cues.and then progressed to customs up to the latest at 2.500.00.

2 weeks ago I had the opportunity to aquire the 1st players cue I bought 12 years ago. its now my daily player again .since I take excellent care of my cues and it was sitting in a case in the closet ever since I let it go it still looks like new and is straight as ever.
As for playing....well... I played well enough with it at cities last weekend to be called a sand bagger lol.

Anytime that I get a new player asking about a cue, I always tell them to start out with a players or action cue. For the money, it's really a good buy and will last a long time. I had my custom player stolen from my trunk a few years back and was going to the APA nationals the following day to referee and play mini's. The only cue that I had available was an action cue that I received for an mvp award. It actually played great and the only problem that I had was getting used to a higher deflection shaft again. I just played mostly 8 ball mini's and tried to use minimal English. To be honest, I could have played with that cue long term and it would have worked out fine.

strmanglr scott · Feb 11, 2016

Said it before, a cue must be straight, have a good tip and allow the player to have confidence in it. That's a good cue.

I also believe a serious player plays one cue and learns that cue. Got a friend who only uses his "good cue" for league and a sneaky Pete every other time, smh, they're two different cues, weight, shaft, not good imo.

Sir Scratchalot · Feb 11, 2016

poolguy4u said:
.

My comment came from knowledge and experience.

To perform certain shots on a 9 foot table, a cheap cue just doesn't do the job

like a slightly more expensive cue. A cheap J&J or Kaiser will not perform

as well as the cheapest Joss cue. When you need extreme follow, your

cheap cue will run out of gas.

.

In regards to J&J and Kaiser, what you suggest could be true, but I imagine there are some players with a $100 Schmelke or Players cue that could/would dispute your suggestion.

In my experience on 9ft tables I haven't felt like my shot potential was limited when using that $70 Players sneaky pete of mine (my normal playing cue cost $700 back in '04).

I think you're talking about cheaply made vs cheaply priced. There is a difference.

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KRJ · Feb 11, 2016

poolguy4u said:
.

My comment came from knowledge and experience.

To perform certain shots on a 9 foot table, a cheap cue just doesn't do the job

like a slightly more expensive cue. A cheap J&J or Kaiser will not perform

as well as the cheapest Joss cue. When you need extreme follow, your

cheap cue will run out of gas.

.

Dude, u have no idea what your talking about. Got a nine footer in the basement and play on 9 footers in one of my leagues, and I shot with my Spain, carmeli or my Schmelke and never missed a beat, grant it they were all the same weights and had the same tips.

And all the shafts were maple. And to be honest, I'd have to say my draw was a little less with the Spain of the bunch, it was shorter and stiffer than the others. And Spain is also the one that is in the Hall of Fame.

Of course my cheap Brunswick from 1942 shoots pretty well, not bad for a $12 cue at the time :thumbup:

JC · Feb 11, 2016

john coloccia said:
Personally, I'm done with inlays and splices in my cues. Simple maple butt (maybe birdseye because it's pretty), maybe a ring or two, and that's it. Next cue will probably be wrapless too. I don't think I'd ever spend a dime on ornamentation again. If I have more to spend, I'll spend it on getting a better brand, maybe a spare shaft, whatever.

I feel exactly the same way. I have always admired cues where the beauty of the wood did the talking and not much cared for the bling. Therefore when I took an interest in building cues last year that was my goal. Make a solid cue that's pretty and plays well. Plus all the ornaments take a hell of a lot more skill and time to build, thus the expense. I don't think my interest and available time will allow me to get to that level even if I wanted to. Here are some cues I'm building right now that are almost complete. My next batch will have stitch rings and that's about it. I may do some inlays in the future and for sure points, but minimally. Less is more in that area IMO

JC

SamLambert · Feb 11, 2016

JC said:
I feel exactly the same way. I have always admired cues where the beauty of the wood did the talking and not much cared for the bling. Therefore when I took an interest in building cues last year that was my goal. Make a solid cue that's pretty and plays well. Plus all the ornaments take a hell of a lot more skill and time to build, thus the expense. I don't think my interest and available time will allow me to get to that level even if I wanted to. Here are some cues I'm building right now that are almost complete. My next batch will have stitch rings and that's about it. I may do some inlays in the future and for sure points, but minimally. Less is more in that area IMO

View attachment 411910

View attachment 411909

JC

Those are some nice looking cues.

strmanglr scott · Feb 11, 2016

poolguy4u said:
.

My comment came from knowledge and experience.

To perform certain shots on a 9 foot table, a cheap cue just doesn't do the job

like a slightly more expensive cue. A cheap J&J or Kaiser will not perform

as well as the cheapest Joss cue. When you need extreme follow, your

cheap cue will run out of gas.

.

Lol, that's funny.

BmoreMoney · Feb 11, 2016

JC said:
I feel exactly the same way. I have always admired cues where the beauty of the wood did the talking and not much cared for the bling. Therefore when I took an interest in building cues last year that was my goal. Make a solid cue that's pretty and plays well. Plus all the ornaments take a hell of a lot more skill and time to build, thus the expense. I don't think my interest and available time will allow me to get to that level even if I wanted to. Here are some cues I'm building right now that are almost complete. My next batch will have stitch rings and that's about it. I may do some inlays in the future and for sure points, but minimally. Less is more in that area IMO

View attachment 411910

View attachment 411909

JC

I agree with Sam, they are very nice looking. What do your prices look like?

Corwyn_8 · Feb 11, 2016

poolguy4u said:
When you need extreme follow, your
cheap cue will run out of gas.

Fortunately for me, my cue runs on stored solar power. I never even put gas into it. I suggest you get one; quieter and less smog in my pool room as well.

Thank you kindly.

JC · Feb 11, 2016

BmoreMoney said:
I agree with Sam, they are very nice looking. What do your prices look like?

Right now I am not planning on selling any until I'm sure they are ready for prime time. I'm just learning and refining the needed skills and want to make sure they don't have issues in use. I would hate for my first impression to be a bad one in the world. The Bocote cue on the top of the photo is my player and I've been putting it through the rigors now for about 6 months. Breaking with it and all. So far so good. I have no ambitions to build a custom cue to anyone's specs because I don't want the stress of a time table to take the fun out of it. So I'm going to build cues I like and when I have a rack of them done and am convinced they are a good product I will offer them for sale. I have built a half dozen or so that I have more or less given away to my friends and am waiting for some time to go by. Beta testing if you will. As far as pricing I don't know for sure yet. I'm sure whatever it is won't be competing with my day job. They are however all one of ones which is cool.

JC

Cornerman · Feb 11, 2016

Johnnyt said:
I think it's time to let all the new players that you can get started with a cue costing $100 or less and become an "A" player with it. As long as you have a good well shaped tip on it and it feels comfortable to you after a few weeks of play...your good to go. There are just too many that think they will never get good unless they can afford a $500+ cue. That's my opinion and I've been an "A" with $55 to $150 cues for many years. Not anymore though...75 YO. Johnnyt

Let's not create an argument that doesn't exist. In what universe are people telling new players that they will never get good unless they can afford a $500 cue??? None.

20 times or more a year, someone asks about low cost cues, with the inevitable "not the arrow, but it's the Native American..." And every time, someone (many someones) point out any number of great-playing cues available today that are under $100 including Schmelke, Dufferin, Players, and McDermott-designed Lucky or Star cues.

But, at the same time, people can spend whatever the hell they want. If they want to spend thousands, that's fine. It's not up to anyone to dictate on what and how they spend their own money.

Cornerman · Feb 11, 2016

poolguy4u said:
.

When playing on a bar box, cheap cues will work fine.

Once you graduate to a 9 foot table, you will need something better.

Like instead of an old VW, you need to go to a Cadillac to play on a 9 footer.

Cheap cues do not work good on 9 foot tables.

.

Maybe you're talking about ramin cues, but if you shot with my $35 McDermott, you'd throw your post in the toilet.

You Can Get Started With $100 Cue

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