You Can Get Started With $100 Cue

poolguy4u

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
:slap:




Well actually...if you're not a good enough player to understand what I'm talking about,

I guess you'll just never know. A good player knows what I'm saying.


No need to respond if you are an APA 5 or lower.



:D



.
 

Cornerman

Cue Author...Sometimes
Gold Member
Silver Member
:slap:




Well actually...if you're not a good enough player to understand what I'm talking about,

I guess you'll just never know. A good player knows what I'm saying.


No need to respond if you are an APA 5 or lower.



:D



.
and if I'm an APA 9? Does the world end due to this conundrum ?
 

john coloccia

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just about the only cues that make an appreciable dent in my game are ones with slip on tips and those crappy aluminum cues. Yeah, of course I play a little better with my daily players, but not so much so that I'd ever blame a loss on them.

But now let me say that the vast majority...not just some or most, but vast majority...of cues I see have horribly neglected tips on them. Mushrooming all over the place, flat,etc. I just happen to notice stuff like this, and I do look because I'm curious. I'd rather see someone buy a cheaper cue and then invest a couple of bucks into some of shaping/scuffing tools to keep their tips in good condition.
 

bk-banger

Registered
Related to this - I have a Players SP that I keep in a locker at my pool-hall. I want to get a 2nd cue for home/travel.

The second cue would be the same weight, shaft type and tip. However, different brand (Schmelke or a Lucky). Is this a bad idea?
 

sys_argv

Registered
I feel exactly the same way. I have always admired cues where the beauty of the wood did the talking and not much cared for the bling. Therefore when I took an interest in building cues last year that was my goal. Make a solid cue that's pretty and plays well. Plus all the ornaments take a hell of a lot more skill and time to build, thus the expense. I don't think my interest and available time will allow me to get to that level even if I wanted to. Here are some cues I'm building right now that are almost complete. My next batch will have stitch rings and that's about it. I may do some inlays in the future and for sure points, but minimally. Less is more in that area IMO

View attachment 411910

View attachment 411909

JC


I am still looking for my daily player and what I have found is that most starter cues have either some sort of wrap or some gaudy configuration of inlays, points e.t.c. I wholeheartedly endorse your philosophy. Too bad, the bocote's not for sale :(
 

Johnnyt

Burn all jump cues
Silver Member
Let's not create an argument that doesn't exist. In what universe are people telling new players that they will never get good unless they can afford a $500 cue??? None.

20 times or more a year, someone asks about low cost cues, with the inevitable "not the arrow, but it's the Native American..." And every time, someone (many someones) point out any number of great-playing cues available today that are under $100 including Schmelke, Dufferin, Players, and McDermott-designed Lucky or Star cues.

But, at the same time, people can spend whatever the hell they want. If they want to spend thousands, that's fine. It's not up to anyone to dictate on what and how they spend their own money.

I never said any rank of player should NOT buy a cue over $500. I just said there is no need for it...and there isn't. Johnnyt
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
500.00 cues

LOL
All the cues I buy go up in value..

You guys can screw around and play with any cue you want.
I prefer to buy a American made custom cue that will go up in value, therefor I get to play with a nice cue and get paid for it :D

Personally I believe a bar cue is a better playing cue then most cues that are 150.00 or less.
 

JC

Coos Cues
I am still looking for my daily player and what I have found is that most starter cues have either some sort of wrap or some gaudy configuration of inlays, points e.t.c. I wholeheartedly endorse your philosophy. Too bad, the bocote's not for sale :(

That cue is JC #2 and I will likely be keeping it and handing it down. The marblewood cue with the walnut handle and the white juma is JC#1. Probably hang on to both of those.:smile:

JC
 

SilverCue

Sir Raksalot
Silver Member
$100 Schmelke sp is pretty tough to beat.
Got 1 a few weeks ago, very good.
Just bought a $70 Players Sneaky And a $65 Action Sneaky but won't get to try them until Tuesday.
Still just a 'B' player though.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

Sir Scratchalot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If I've done it right, I've attached a few pictures of a cue that's beaten me a few times tonight and dozens of times in the past, along with the help of a little guy who claims he's been shooting since the age of six and won't reveal his current age. I've always been an "arrow not the Indian" guy (who isn't?) and some of you who might not get out much might mistake him for being an Injun, but he's actually Filipino. He's no world beater by any means but he haunts the bar tourneys around here with some degree of menace.

He wields the mighty Cuetec Excalibur, which seems to come in around $60 at a good price. I've taken a few shots with it and my guess at its composition is that it may have a lead bumper and helium core shaft.

The wrap is his own design. I assume that's genuine duct tape near the forearm but one can never be sure these days. The rest of the fancy dual-colored grip you're seeing has the consistency of skateboard grip tape. I can't be certain what it is but it leaves my hand raw and bleeding. I suspect it's piranha skin.

He does his own tip installations. I told him why I was taking pictures of his cue and the nature of the thread and he wanted me to pass on that the only thing that matters is the tip.

Despite that, he's totally dedicated to one fancy chalk. I believe it's known as pre-WWII Masters which he painstakingly hand-kilns with a Bic lighter.

This has thoroughly cracked me up! LOL

t
 

galipeau

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A good playing shaft is much more important TO ME than the butt of the cue.

Emphasis on the bold. While I agree with you and this thread in general (I love cheap cues that play well -see my thread on the Mali I picked up in the cue and case gallery), I do have a slight issue with this statement.

I think that the Butt of the cue does matter. For cheap cues, you can't go wrong with a sneaky, or a one piece, or a simple maple forearm cue. I think that the butt diameter in regards to the wrap, weight, and balance is important. If it doesn't feel right in your hands, then pick another cue.

I just hear a lot of people say that the butt doesn't matter, and if they truly believed it, they'd be playing with the cheapest mizerak pos butt possibly and a predator shaft... but they don't.
 

galipeau

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
.



When playing on a bar box, cheap cues will work fine.

Once you graduate to a 9 foot table, you will need something better.

Like instead of an old VW, you need to go to a Cadillac to play on a 9 footer.


Cheap cues do not work good on 9 foot tables.



.



What??? I understand not bringing a fancy cue to a bar to play with, but not using a cheap cue because of table size is absurd....
 

Sir Scratchalot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What??? I understand not bringing a fancy cue to a bar to play with, but not using a cheap cue because of table size is absurd....
You simply do not play well enough to understand (according to him). That must be my problem, as well, since I can't make sense of his statement either.

Oh well, I still have fun, even if I'm using a cheap cue.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 

galipeau

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You simply do not play well enough to understand (according to him). That must be my problem, as well, since I can't make sense of his statement either.

Oh well, I still have fun, even if I'm using a cheap cue.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk



Well, he's right... I do play like crap. Can't even run three balls in straight pool. Anyone want to play some cheap sets?

To the OP, this is a good thread topic and it's nice to hear for people of various generations. I am a firm believer in being willing and able to play with anything. Off the wall, custom, production, a broomstick... It's pool for god's sakes! Pick up a cue an play. :thumbup:




Edit: I really like Shakesea's post. I once got my ass kicked by a guy wo used a bright green cue with flame decals. He was also a very talented chess player.
Appearances can be... deceptive. LOL
 

Player

I'm your huckleberry
Silver Member
I recently got a cue for $35 and put a milkdud on it. Just as soon use it as any cue I have.
 

Straightpool_99

I see dead balls
Silver Member
I'm very particular about my cues. The cue doesn't need to be expensive, but it does need certain qualities that are very hard to put into words. I have to pick it up and hold it to know if I'll shoot well with it or not. Some Dufferin housecues I can play well with, others I can't play with at all. It's quite strange to me.

I have a cue now that I paid 40 dollars for that plays very well. I also have a 700 dollar cue. I go back and forth between them.

I do have a cue in my closet that I never could run 3 balls with. I is a Meucci demo cue with a black dot shaft. I played with this cue for about 6 months and never quite learned to shoot well with it. I remember paying 200 dollars for it. It's just to soft for me, not the shaft, but the butt section bends when you shoot. It's an extremely unfamiliar feeling. It's funny too, because the balance of the cue is excellent, the shaft is slick, the tip is a really good Moori tip, but there is just no way I can play at even 70% of my ability with that cue. It does not help that the clear coated wrap fell off, and that the joint collars are popping like nothing I've ever seen. I'd sooner play with a housecue than that one.
 
Last edited:
Top