clicky tip?

angldemn said:

I thought I'd try my hand at installing a tip, and after about a half hour with some sandpaper and a feather razor blade(the kind you use for your face,) I thought I achieved near perfection.

I went to play with it tonight and, there is a slight clicky sound when I hit the cue ball. Is the tip compromised, and what can I do better in the future?

Here's a pic because I'm still proud of my first try.

Click to expand...

It is the magic marker that is causing your problem, happens everytime!

You either have an air pocket between tip and cue, or a loose layer in the tip. From the looks of the side you took the pic of, the tip looks ok, so a guess would be incomplete adhesion between tip and cue.
Chuck

angldemn said:

Not sure if you're joking, but it is actually a kamui black tip. If the finish looks funny, I used 600 grit sandpaper(finest home depot had) and then a little bit of candle wax.

Click to expand...

What Craig means is that often when a marker is used to blacken the sides of a layered tip....the alcohol in the ink can actually work to loosen the glue between the layers...which in time will cause a clicking sound if not a total delam. Its probably air under the tip. How did you face off the ferrule? Its really tough to properly face the ferrule perfectly flat without a lathe. Leaving any little bit of residue from the previous tip/glue will make for possible faulty adhesion.

That tip is going to pop off. I had problems with some layered(Samsara too) before forum members stepped up and helped me.

FIRST, sand the glue side with 400 on a flat surface. On embossed tips, I use 220 then 400 and take to impression off(that is me, nobody told me to do this. It just works for ME). Wipe surface thoroughly with clean paper towel.

Second, take THIN cyano a put a drop or two on tip. If the tip soaks up all the glue immediately, add a bit more. Take heed not to pile an uneven coat on top the tip.

While that is drying, take some 400 and scuff your freshly faced ferrule just a bit. Some say dab a coat of thin here as well but I never have. Wipe with clean paper towel.

Third, sand glue side of tip again with 400. If you immediately start getting leather, wipe and put another drop down and wait for it to dry.

Repeat....the goal here is to seal the small holes in the leather that act like a sponge(they pull the glue away from the mating surface leaving it adhesion starved...THAT is why you have that sound and why that tip is gonna go away)and give 2 surfaces a chance to properly bond.

Put a bb or 2 worth of gel super glue on tip and center on ferrule. I suppose you could maintain pressure with your fingers long enough for a bond. If you have one of those clamps with triggers that would work, albeit tricky. You want to be able to wipe any excess glue away from ferrule.

The shaping and all looks nice, just beware of heat. That will kill not only the super glue, but the glues they use to bond the tip together. I REALLY like using: some sealer, 600, 800,1000, then some 3m imperial(white)compound

The hole in the end of the ferrule is nothing to worry about it simply allows excess glue to escape when installation is performed and prevents "something" from breaking from hydraulic pressure...

Looks like you did a great job on the tip anyway.
You do realize that you have actually entered the Dark Side by replacing your
own tip and you are on the way to purchasing a lathe, etc, etc, etc.

Blue Hog ridr said:

Looks like you did a great job on the tip anyway.
You do realize that you have actually entered the Dark Side by replacing your
own tip and you are on the way to purchasing a lathe, etc, etc, etc.

Click to expand...

May the force be with you!! :thumbup:

angldemn said:

Varney Cues - I realized facing the ferrule would be difficult, but I think I came up with a good way to do it without tools. I held the shaft upside down with my fingers against a piece of glass covered with 220 grit, and rested the joint side against my shoulder for support. I then slowly and steadily pulled the sandpaper out from under the ferrule several times until it felt like it was cutting the whole surface smoothly and easily(like a bevel on a knife).

pescadoman - I feel the glue is probably the problem. Generally cyanocryolate works better the thinner the layer you can get between surfaces. I did not account for the leather soaking some up.

Blue Hog ridr - If I had a space I'd already be looking for one. :thumbup:



And with you!

Click to expand...

This technique was shared with me and I have NOT had a problem since. Before, kamuiis would come off more than i like to remember. Consider the click to be a cry for help

pescadoman said:

This technique was shared with me and I have NOT had a problem since.

Click to expand...

Since sharing the method with the forum I've seen many people take credit as well as credit me...which both are incorrect. All credit for the idea goes to a cuemaker on an entirely different planet than the rest of us assemblers...I was so lucky as to have Mr. Searing share his technique and started calling it the Searing Method. Basically just prime both surfaces with CA before the actual install. I don't think anyone using this method has had a single tip jump ship since. Newer Moori's & some of the others absorb glue so much that it was quite a problem for a time. Thank you Dennis!:smile:

double gluing

Model plane guys have been using this technique for a long time with assorted different adhesives.

I know no other technique for successfully glueing end-grain balsa.

It's a natural for gluing end grain anything.

In fact, it's a useful technique for gluing all porous materials.

Robin

carguy said:

Model plane guys have been using this technique for a long time with assorted different adhesives.

I know no other technique for successfully glueing end-grain balsa.

It's a natural for gluing end grain anything.

In fact, it's a useful technique for gluing all porous materials.

Robin

Click to expand...

Been doing that since I made combat wings with mostly cyano back in the early 80's.
Learnt that Nitromethane was a solvent for super glue, so had to keep the fuel away from the frame.
Also applying the activator to the porous surface also works.The glue sets as it starts to penetrate and does not all run away or get absorbed.
Makes for a lighter model as well. Also works for tips. A dab of activator on the bottom of the tip,a glue drop in the middle of the ferrule, assemble with light pressure. All done.

I use 5 minute epoxy. One shot=one kill. I've never had any kind of tip come off of any type of ferrule. Granted, I only have a few dozen repairs, but the only tips that ever came off were glued with CA.

Loctite 454 and a toothpick to spread them work for me.
454 ain't cheap though.

JoeyInCali said:

Loctite 454 and a toothpick to spread them work for me.
454 ain't cheap though.

Click to expand...

For pure hit quality...the white Gorilla. Might be just in my twisted mind...but I swear the wG gives a better feel & livelier "hit". Never had the Gorilla drop a tip either & works with ALL ferrule materials.

Varney Cues said:

For pure hit quality...the white Gorilla. Might be just in my twisted mind...but I swear the wG gives a better feel & livelier "hit". Never had the Gorilla drop a tip either & works with ALL ferrule materials.

Click to expand...

LOL! Tempted to try it. Takes longer to dry than CA, though, doesn't it?

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

acousticsguru said:

LOL! Tempted to try it. Takes longer to dry than CA, though, doesn't it?

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti

Click to expand...

It does take longer than the CA's....no where close to as long as the brown original - it took overnight. The white foams & cures up much quicker...be sure to dampen the tip back for best bond & fastest cure as well. Not the adhesive you'd use setting up at an event with people waiting...but trust me...when doing a tip on my personal shaft...I don't mind the extra time and white Gorilla is the only thing I use on my tips now. It really makes for that sweet softer-ish type hit instead of the glassy "ping" that often comes with the CA's. :thumbup:

Varney Cues said:

It does take longer than the CA's....no where close to as long as the brown original - it took overnight. The white foams & cures up much quicker...be sure to dampen the tip back for best bond & fastest cure as well. Not the adhesive you'd use setting up at an event with people waiting...but trust me...when doing a tip on my personal shaft...I don't mind the extra time and white Gorilla is the only thing I use on my tips now. It really makes for that sweet softer-ish type hit instead of the glassy "ping" that often comes with the CA's. :thumbup:

Click to expand...

Sounds great! You're not alone in noticing a difference in feel and sound. My tipping seems perfect every time, except for a tip that delaminated (not my fault - and that one sounded funny from the get-go!), I've never had one come off in 25 years. But even the cyanoacrylates I've tried, liquid and gels, didn't all feel and sound the same. Ironically, those modern gels that stay elastic (rather: rubbery) instead of crystallizing, even though the idea appealed to me when I first heard of them, the hit resulting from using them feels curiously "dead". So thanks for pointing this out! Now I can only hope I'll be able to get some of the white Gorilla, because I'm typing this literally residing in, and sending you…

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti