I guess it would be my sandbox then. While it looks like you have valuable information to share, you are doing it in a very aggressive and condescending way. How about we ease off of the "I'm better than you" and just try to be helpful?
Mike
Can you seal a carbon fiber shaft?
- Thread starter gunzby
- Start date
I guess it would be my sandbox then. While it looks like you have valuable information to share, you are doing it in a very aggressive and condescending way. How about we ease off of the "I'm better than you" and just try to be helpful?
Mike
CS,
Thanks for that info, I appreciate you sharing.
I have no experience with this material and was asked to put 10 inch sight inlays indexed at 120 degree.
I told the customer I could do the job in maple but would have to look into the carbon fiber option.
After hearing your advice I will reject to notion of using this material.
You da man!:smile:
Thanks again,
Rick
Good post. I'm glad this has caught your eye.
Wow this question turned into riot. I just wanted to give a little bit of an update. Like I said before, the shaft is smooth but produces a bit of drag after some use in a days play. I'm used to something much smoother since I reseal my own shafts. I might wipe those shafts down once every so many weeks, so once an hour with a cf shaft is way out of the norm for me. Heck I reseal Predator shafts straight out of the box because they're not to my liking. I also live in NC, so humidity is obviously a factor.
I did seal the shaft. My reasoning for this was that they use CA glue to seal cf parts, so I was sure a regular sealant would be fine. The result want to my liking. I used two coats and it seemed like I could've gone more, but stopped, tried it out and used an alcohol wipe to take it off. I also tried just waxing it and that was also not to my liking. My next option was wet sanding it to a polish going from 1500-7000. I haven't done this because it's the only option that truly makes me nervous.
Last week I ordered a glove. Any time I order from seyberts I get $50 worth for the free shipping and happened upon this stuff called Steady Eddies Cue Talc. I picked it up and it seems to be a silicone type spray. This stuff did the trick
I did seal the shaft. My reasoning for this was that they use CA glue to seal cf parts, so I was sure a regular sealant would be fine. The result want to my liking. I used two coats and it seemed like I could've gone more, but stopped, tried it out and used an alcohol wipe to take it off. I also tried just waxing it and that was also not to my liking. My next option was wet sanding it to a polish going from 1500-7000. I haven't done this because it's the only option that truly makes me nervous.
Last week I ordered a glove. Any time I order from seyberts I get $50 worth for the free shipping and happened upon this stuff called Steady Eddies Cue Talc. I picked it up and it seems to be a silicone type spray. This stuff did the trick
ClockSocket
Banned
The reason arrows don't like twist is that their fibers are all axial and parallel. Cf has virtually no compressive, or sheer strength.
Shafts made like the revo use multiple layers of Cf that are biased, so twist is a non factor in them.
ClockSocket
Banned
People I will never help...
I told a guy he was wrong and shouldn't make up information, and I get flack for it. Bunch of winners you are.
All true. My point was that yes when cf fails very fine splinters are produced. Very similar to working with fiber optics real pain once in to get out.
What likely will cause failure even on biased application is flexing if breaking as seen when wooden shafts are driven through to the table when breaking and the butt is lifted.
May I asked if you have looked into recommendations and statements of the cf shaft manufacturers. Cuetec , Predator they state wipe alcohol As Dave relaid only. So information he gave wasn’t made up by him.
Becue is the only one to state black polish. Others are now in the market and I have not read their statements so can’t comment on theirs.
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Ok expert...what part of my response to the OP was false???? You keep claiming I have made shit up and being a BS'er....but you haven't said what I made up. PLEASE enlighten me and everyone else as to what part of my advice was false/made up/ incorrect? To refresh your memory, here is my response to the OP who is an end user...not a manufacturer...
The only treatment you can/should do to a carbon fiber shaft it wipe them with an alcohol wipe and then let it dry. No sanding or sealers. Was it new or used? If used, someone may have already done something bad to it. If new, return it and they should replace it
That is based on the manufacturer's recommendations...you don't agree, then take that up with them on their site, not here.
Do you have any experience with CUE shafts made from CF as an end user?
Is your name Joe by chance?
dave
Thanks for having my back and actually reading what was posted....greenies for you.
Dave
ClockSocket
Banned
I've already answered this.
You can sand and seal Cf. Cf sands and seals well. You can use all sorts of chemicals on Cf. Whether the manufacturer recommends it or not.
The op didn't ask about manufacture recommendations, he asked if he could. I'm sure the op is capable of finding the revo website.
I'm done with you. You are an extremely sensitive person.
You do understand that regular carbon fiber is a weave of carbon fiber strands to make a sheet/layer. The Revo, Cynergy, and Prime-M are all filament based carbon fiber. These shredded carbon fiber strands run the entire length of the shaft. Any sanding will break the integrity of the filament style carbons fiber and cause the shaft to become much weaker. You’re spreading misinformation, knock it off.
ClockSocket
Banned
Regular Cf is not a weave. Consumer Cf has traditionally had a lot of weave type.
Aircraft wings and fuselages are biased lay up Cf.
Look, I was assisting Airbus when they built the first A350 wings. I was on top of, and inside the first A350 wings that flew.
Fyi, the A350 wings are mostly Cf.
Dave, you have helped me out immensely, and based on some of the questions you have taken the time to answer of mine, obviously, I know zilch about building cues.
The original post asked specifically about the "prime m shaft ", you said "No sanding or sealers", as pointed out by get a grip on the official becue website, they say to use sandpaper, https://www.becueofficial.com/care--maintenance.html and some type of black polish( I don't know what that black polish is, is it a sealer? Is a sealer and polish different? like I said, I know zilch).
So in that, at least in terms of sanding a becue shaft you gave incorrect information, I don't know about any nuances of carbon fiber, and hopefully, you don't mind me pointing that out. You did ask, but maybe you were simply asking in a rhetorical way.
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Why do you think the Prime-M manufacturers state "we recommend using a 1500/2000 gri[t] sandpaper", do you think they are unknowledgeable or are possibly giving bad information regarding their product?
ClockSocket
Banned
People who do three minutes of research think they are experts, and will argue with people who have twelve years of professional experience with a product.
It's called the Dunning-Kruger effect. Look it up.
JC
Coos Cues
Sounds like you have a lot of expertise.
Would love to see some photos of your cues.
JC
ClockSocket
Banned
The best way to describe a composite anything is a whole lot of fibres that are encapsulated by a bonding agent. The wetting out only refers to the amount of the fibres that are fully encapsulated by the resin. This is actually really important. If the resin amount is insufficient then there will be fibres that have no resin all around them. That will mean that these individual fibres can then detach from the structure. As the fibres themselves are generally in the 4um to 10um, so like 2/10ths of a thou to 4/10ths of a thou is diameter. These are very small, and if you get one in your hand, you are unlikely to see it. All that said, I have never had any issues with any carbon fibre parts and cue shafts I have made. The exposed section of a fibre that is encapsulated by resin seems to be just fine even though your hand etc is rubbing against it. It can be sealed by things like car paint clear coat, or CA , or any finishing resin that is compatible with the substrate resin. I don't recommend sanding a carbon shaft for it's cleaning at all. When you 1st get it, and it seems to be sticky to your skin, some light grey scotchbrite draw polish will work well. Once you start to see black coming off the cue shaft, that is resin and carbon fibre coming off. Becue use of black polish, I assume is like shoe polish, is probably a good idea. It will leave behind a very thin smooth finish on the cue shaft. IPA will not harm any epoxy resin that I know of. However, things like Methanol, denatured alcohol, Acetone, nail polish remover, super glue remover, MEK, are all solvents for epoxy resins. Baby wipes and lens cloth wipes are fine, to use.
The best thing with carbon cue shafts, is keeping chalk off your hands, or glove and off the shaft itself. Cue chalk is actually very abrasive .
Neil
The best thing with carbon cue shafts, is keeping chalk off your hands, or glove and off the shaft itself. Cue chalk is actually very abrasive .
Neil
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ClockSocket
Banned
You know your stuff! Great post.