Opinions on characteristics of different butt woods/materials

Laminated cores are more stable and stronger than solid wood cores. It’s definitely not to be able to use cheaper grades of wood. Cost savings would be negligible anyway.
More work goes into make a laminated core. Much easier to just turn down a solid piece of wood.
I use both laminated and solid in my cues. But my solid cores are aged many years.

GaryB said:

I would never opt for laminated core. I agree with Patrick that it allows for the use of cheaper woods & I don't see where that would be desirable and the less glue in a cue the better. Why other than the use of cheaper woods would glue be desirable?

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Many years ago, my late mentor and I came across several 17-ply laminated cores that came from a closed cue factory.
None ever made it to his or my cues as cores for forearms or handles.
They sounded dull .
We both got rid of them.

HQueen said:

Laminated cores are more stable and stronger than solid wood cores. It’s definitely not to be able to use cheaper grades of wood. Cost savings would be negligible anyway.
More work goes into make a laminated core. Much easier to just turn down a solid piece of wood.
I use both laminated and solid in my cues. But my solid cores are aged many years.

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Yes, more stable, stronger, more radially consistent - and you can use cheaper, unaged wood. Even good for shafts (as Predator showed us).

I don't get the downside of glue - have there been lots of glue joint failures?

pj
chgo

Patrick Johnson said:

Yes, more stable, stronger, more radially consistent - and you can use cheaper, unaged wood. Even good for shafts (as Predator showed us).

I don't get the downside of glue - have there been lots of glue joint failures?

pj
chgo

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Predator shafts are made out of very dehydrated wood scraps. Not sure where they get their weight from but it doesn't appear to be from the wood. They dent super easy compared to a good quality solid maple shaft. Just my experience with them.

you may want to post this question in the "ask the cuemaker " forum

Patrick Johnson said:

Yes, more stable, stronger, more radially consistent - and you can use cheaper, unaged wood. Even good for shafts (as Predator showed us).

I don't get the downside of glue - have there been lots of glue joint failures?

pj
chgo

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How are flat-laminated dowels more radially consistent ?
Not very many use pie-cores for coring dowels.
Most use flat sheets.
And when they use pie-cores, those pieces are not cut from the same board and turned over.

Flat sheets have a lot more glue than radial/pie kind.
The glue adds a lot to it's weight.
And it muffs the tone.

of all the cues I have tried, a rosewood butt is what sounds/feels the best to me.

I happen to love the play of Larry Vigus cues

He made me a few very plain ones when he was getting started

I like the plain maple ,29 inches of maple

Larry is making me one right now,pretty plain
piece of wood so I won't be tempted to sell

I have noticed Efren seems to play with a merry widow of maple
as did so many other great players over the years

Cole Dickson had a maple merry widow by Schon
A ton of the good California players played maple merry widows
and several Filipino players besides Efren

I bought a TAD maple merry widow and Jack Potter swooped it up

My guess is maple is the very best wood for playing pool

guess

I believe "tonal" wood cues provide a better feel to a cue. That would be maple, rosewoods, permambuco, Also woods like bacote and zircote, etc...

For anyone that doesnt think butt construction and wood make a difference just try the same shaft on two different butts. Even with same pin, tip, shaft, ferrule and taper it will feel quite different. Even the Revos feel quite different depending on the type of butt you match it to.

I would prefer to do business with a cue maker who would take his craft seriously enough to only use aged top quality wood for his coring. Gluing strips of wood together would only tend to deaden the hit over time if not from the get go. It has been my experience over the years that wood Tone is a huge factor in a cue. From butt to shaft.

GaryB said:

Gluing strips of wood together would only tend to deaden the hit over time if not from the get go.

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Does "deaden the hit" mean you feel less overall (like it's cushioned), or is it something more specific?

How does it affect your performance?

pj
chgo

Patrick Johnson said:

Does "deaden the hit" mean you feel less overall (like it's cushioned), or is it something more specific?

How does it affect your performance?

pj
chgo

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It probably affects his enjoyment more than anything. Something satisfying about a cue that feels how you like it to.

JC said:

It probably affects his enjoyment more than anything. Something satisfying about a cue that feels how you like it to.

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That's what I assume - but I'm interested in whether that's how he sees it...

pj
chgo

How many players could tell what kind(if any) of core was used in a cue? I would bet the number would be tiny. I know one very highly regarded(on here as well) maker that has used used laminated cores for years and i've never heard anyone complain about their hit. I think its like joints, its all in the players head how they hit.

I had a cue with a soft hit due that I didn't like due to the core.

I changed the tip and it took care of it.

Some cuemakers used laminated handles in their cues. Or laminated cores or shafts.
Everyone can speculate all day long about how it deadens the hit or it doesn’t.
Best thing is if you are interested in a cue ask the maker before you purchase or order one if you have issues with laminated cores, handles or whatever.

JC said:

It probably affects his enjoyment more than anything. Something satisfying about a cue that feels how you like it to.

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Probably true. Probably also true that if you gave me a dozen cues with 3 of them having laminated cores I probably couldn't immediately determine which of the 3 had the laminate.

For many years I have only bought custom cues. During this time I have learned what suits my fancy and the construction that makes sense to me.

My last two cues, one Bubinga and one Brazilian Rosewood are both cored with wood over 10 years old. I knew my cue makers mentor when he worked at Best Billiards with Ariel Carmeli. He was eccentric but I liked Zylr cues. His student has been posting in this thread. He has continued and improved upon his mentors concepts due to improvements in modern day materials. Even while he was learning he was buying exotic woods as well as the highest grade maple. He ages all of his wood naturally and has no problem discarding that wood which moves improperly. I have hit with well over a dozen of his cues over the years and his cues consistently have the resonant hit that appeals to me. I might play a ball or so better with a carbon fiber but I want that "feel" when you hit the ball perfectly.

Thanks Joey. Wish I could talk you out of that Pernambuco!