Did you tape the ferrule before gluing?
Best OTC Cement for Cue Tips?
- Thread starter jviss
- Start date
Did you tape the ferrule before gluing?
No I didn't, but I wiped a bit of excess that squeezed out with a cloth dampened with acetone. No mess on the ferrule.
they say a pic is worth a thousand words...
I tape the ferrule with multiple turns so the diameter is equal to the new tip diameter. That ensures centering.
That's a good idea Bob. I will try that the next time I change my tip.
Oh, interesting.
I'm planning on making a tip centering tool that I can put in the tailstock of the lathe. Then I can just put the tip in, apply cement, and crank it into the chucked shaft.
Unless you’re installing tips that constantly pop off, not needed. Tips come in 14mm standard, with some companies offering smaller/larger. Always buy larger and trim to size.
Yes, that's what I'm doing! 14mm tips on ~12.5 to 13mm ferrules. Still would be nice to center them.
Here it is, first one I've done:
It's an SIB Pro medium.
Looks better than some first time installs. Still got tearing on the leather from a dull cutter. Looks like some chalk stains got glue coated.
Thanks for the feedback! That blue isn't chalk, I don't think, I think it's blue ink from the back of the tip.
I used a lathe carbide cutter, so wasn't really cutting it, was scraping it. What's the preferred cutter for leather tips?
Have you tried Lenox titanium blades? A little more expensive than other blades, but they are quite sharp. After you center the tip, let the CA cure several minutes, then slightly wet the tip before cutting. The leather should “ribbon” off the tip, if it’s a layered tip. Then shape and burnish as you would normally do. Hope this helps.
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the reply. I am having a bit of trouble visualizing what you suggest. I assume you are referring to the Lenox titanium-coated utility knife blades? How do you hold them when cutting? Also, what spindle speed do you recommend?
Thanks,
jv
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the reply. I am having a bit of trouble visualizing what you suggest. I assume you are referring to the Lenox titanium-coated utility knife blades? How do you hold them when cutting? Also, what spindle speed do you recommend?
Thanks,
jv[/QUOTE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1ICcN5qyJk
Thanks for the reply. I am having a bit of trouble visualizing what you suggest. I assume you are referring to the Lenox titanium-coated utility knife blades? How do you hold them when cutting? Also, what spindle speed do you recommend?
Thanks,
jv[/QUOTE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1ICcN5qyJk
Thanks. I must confess that, having done a lot of lathe work, that the knife position when he's initially trimming to diameter makes me cringe. But, it seems to work for him.
Do you have any idea of the spindle speed?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1ICcN5qyJk[/QUOTE]I have mine done but iirc its around 1800revs.
I have mine done but iirc its around 1800revs.[/QUOTE]
Thanks. That's near the top speed on my metal lathe, but wood lathes go faster. I cut mine at 900. Will experiment with different speeds (on cheap tips).
Thanks. That's near the top speed on my metal lathe, but wood lathes go faster. I cut mine at 900. Will experiment with different speeds (on cheap tips).[/QUOTE]I just did a quick search and most all said between 1500-2000. 900 may be a tad slow. Definitely want to wet it to make it cut easier.
The slower the better. But not too slow. Due to the dual bevel of a razor blade, you’ll **** up some ferrules in the learning process. I’ve transitioned from using razor blades to a specialty ground blade. Completely flat on the bottom, with one side ground to the point(single bevel). It’s quicker, less error prone. But requires maintenance to keep a sharp edge that utility blades don’t need. I just modified a 3/8” old chisel.
And there should be zero ink left on the bottom of the tip when you go to glue it. Are you sanding the back of the tip first?